North American Turbocoupe Organization



ABS
stitchrr Offline
Junior Member
#1
Is there any info on diognosing problem when the abs light is on? i didn't see anything in the tech topic for just the abs.
RJR
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goldwing Offline
Senior Member
#2
Mine came on when the little brake pressure switch sensor went bad.
The sensor I'm refering to is located on the distribution block/all the metal lines into one block,... its on the fire wall, just under the end of the big metal block at the end of the fill bottle.
I suppose it could be a number of things though.

Of course the first thing to do would be look for any obvious leaks and low fluid level.
T.C:87 5 speed
HOLSET(HE341/HY35W type-D),255 Walbro, No intercooler yet,8lbs boost,Timing @ 9,Low& C.C Plates & SN-95 Bumpsteer Kit, KYB-AGX Struts,Belt driven fan,Custom oil cooler feed,Relocated ECT,Relocated TFI,N/A Hood, showing 178K
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stitchrr Offline
Junior Member
#3
no leaks. will check the sensor. are these available new?
RJR
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
^^^^ the brake pressure switch has zero connection with the ABS system. The switch is only connected to the PRC system, which, in turn, isnt connected to the ABS system in any way. Only way the leaking switch could set off the ABS light is if the fluid level dropped due to the leak.

To the OP..... you can run the ABS codes using the ABS test connector in the trunk and watching the ABS light flash out codes. The most common problem is the cables to the wheel sensors breaking internally due to 25 years and hundreds of thousands of miles for flexing. Wheel sensor output and cable integrety can be easily tested using a DMM. I think there are instructions somewhere here or on JTs site (tbirdheratage or something like that). Another common problem is rust on the tone rings or sensors themselves interfering with the magnetic field between the sensors and tone rings. Even loose wheel bearings can set an ABS code as the gap between sensor and tone ring is upset.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
See this about pulling the ABS codes, a good place to start.
http://natomessageboard.com/cgi-bin/ulti...114#000000
Pete Dunham


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goldwing Offline
Senior Member
#6
Well, that means I have a problem too.
I thought my pressure sensor was the issue.
I never found a new switch by the way. I just plugged it/welded it shut.
T.C:87 5 speed
HOLSET(HE341/HY35W type-D),255 Walbro, No intercooler yet,8lbs boost,Timing @ 9,Low& C.C Plates & SN-95 Bumpsteer Kit, KYB-AGX Struts,Belt driven fan,Custom oil cooler feed,Relocated ECT,Relocated TFI,N/A Hood, showing 178K
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stitchrr Offline
Junior Member
#7
thank for all the input so far.working on it
RJR
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