A little help please? EGR/Oil Pressure Sender

I wish I knew where I bout it from, but unfortunately, I don't remember. I do remember that I thought it was a lot of money though. Regardless, it sounds like I need to drop the tank to see what's going on. I'll see if I can get that done today.

A lot of us use JDs or APE. Both are on the Vendors page and both stock Walbro with install kits for TCs IIRC


See the pics of a knockoff that RDOG linked at the bottom of this thread: http://natomessageboard.com/ubbthreads.p...#Post53156

Well, it doesn't seem to be the fuel pump. I replaced it today, and it is just as bad as before. The fuel pressure just doesn't want to build. By the way, I also tried listening with a screwdriver for the hissing sound up front, and it sounds like it is fuel flowing in the fuel pulse damper. I'm am guessing this acts like a pressure tank on a well water pump, and smooth out pressure fluctuations going to the injectors?

I am guessing this sound is probably ok.

I'm just not sure what the next step is. Any suggestions?
-Thanks.

id you check the filter sock, the white plastic grill thing on the pump pickup. If the tank is dirty the sock can become clogged. If it isn't the pump then it has to be some kind of restriction/blockage somewhere. The only other thing I can think of beside that would be real low voltage to the pump
See this article for that: http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/Fuel_Pump...ostics.htm

I'll check the pump voltage next. I just replaced the pump intake filter sock today, plus when I put the new pump in this morning, the tank was pristine condition inside.

Well, now I KNOW its not the fuel pump. It turns out the fuel route was just a costly wild goose chase caused by my faulty POS fuel pressure gauge. I started to suspect it might be the problem so I rented one from autozone. I hooked the new gauge up, and with one turn of the key the fuel pressure read 42 psi. It came up to pressure very quickly.

So, now that it looks like the fuel side is ok, what would I look at next to get it to run for more than 5 seconds? Any ideas where I can look next?

Thanks.
-Jim

Unplug the electrical connector from the VAM and see if it runs. If you have an L series or 8UA computer, it should run pretty good with no VAM electricallyconnected. If you drive it this way, DO NOT get into boost more than a few psi or it will run lean = bad. Also check the VAM to be sure the flapper door isnt stuck closed or open and moves freely.

Other thing I am thinking is PIP/TFI problems. Do you have a spare distributor with a good TFI/PIP in it to try?

Jeff, I'll check the VAM but right now I can't keep it running for more than 5-10 seconds. I have replaced the TFI before, but I'm not ruling out the fact that the TFI could be bad. I bought a Motorcraft replacement that is on the car now, but it isn't the same model as the original. Apparently the original is no longer made. I'll let you know what I find when I check the VAM.
Thanks.
-Jim

I just checked the VAM. I guess it seems ok. The door wasn't stuck, and it runs the pretty much the same with or without it unplugged. Either way, I need to keep feathering the gas pedal to keep it running. As soon as I remove my foot from the pedal, it stalls.

It's the PIP Sensor inside the distributor being intermittent, possibly the TFI as well, pretty much guaranteed. I had the exact same problem. It's best to replace both at the the same time to be safe regardless. Even though it is much more expensive, I would only buy the Motorcraft PIP Sensor. I made the mistake of buying a Wells PIP first, and upon installing it, it did the same thing. Changed it out to a Motorcraft PIP, and all was well in TC land. FYI: You can still buy new Motorcraft TFI's for our cars, same as the original, they are only around $75 on RockAuto.