North American Turbocoupe Organization



A few of my problems
bhazard Offline
Posting Freak
#1
1. Doors dont lock, and only the passenger side unlocks. When I hit 'lock' on either side, I just hear something like a solenoid or relay clicking somewhere under the dash, towards the steering column maybe. When I hit unlock, after manually locking the doors, only the passenger side unlocks.

2. I dont think the brake lights work, they arent burned out as far as I can tell, but they didnt work while we were doing the brakes, Ill look into this again just to make sure they are/nt working.

3. Idle is still a little rough, it does have old gas though. I tried to do the idle/tps adjustment the way the article shows, but when the IAC is unplugged, the car dies, and it wont start when its unplugged. Also, the plug is 2 wire, the article says its 3 wire.
88 TC, 170k, K&N, $5 Boostvalve, Stinger 3" ex., 3" Magnaflow, 3" Stinger tail, Zoom clutch
15.26 @ 86mph, 2.18 60' killed valvetrain & headgasket
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4cammer72 Offline
Posting Freak
#2
try to get the manual set screw turned in enough to get it to idle with the iac unplugged then you can set base idle and do the tps.
88tc (sold) but keeping an eye out.
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#3
your idle is too low for the car to run with the IAC disconnected. as previously stated turn it in a bit.
also pull codes just for an idea to see if anything is wrong.

the brake lights id start with the fuse and go from there checking wiring for pinches. but first have someone press the brake pedel and stand outside .

the lock thingy could be bad switches,cracked or bad wiring, bad actuaters for the door locks.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Keman Offline
Member
#4
My brake lights worked very rarely, I found out recently.

I went to replace my brake light switch, and found one of the wires attached to it was broken right where it attached to the switch. It was still attached, but you could plainly feel where the metal was broken inside the insulation. I just crimped a new spade terminal onto it and hooked it directly to it, skipping the plug. I had to pinch the spade terminal with pliars to get it to grip tightly. Has worked good since then.
Eric "Keman" Uratchko
1990 Mustang 5.8 GR-40
1988 Thunderbird Turbocoupe 5sp
2005 Audi S4 Avant MT6
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Keith Nubel Offline
Posting Freak
#5
The TPS is 3 wire, the IAC is 2 wire. Adjusting the IAC and TPS probably won't clear up a rough idle unless the base idle is set to low. Set your TPS at around .91-.95 @ 750 RPM.
1985 TC
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bhazard Offline
Posting Freak
#6
wheres the brake light switch?
88 TC, 170k, K&N, $5 Boostvalve, Stinger 3" ex., 3" Magnaflow, 3" Stinger tail, Zoom clutch
15.26 @ 86mph, 2.18 60' killed valvetrain & headgasket
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V6TBird87 Offline
Posting Freak
#7
on the top of the brake pedal, its an akward little thing
2018 Mustang GT
1988 Turbo Coupe, 5-speed

aka Tbird232ci
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sbhjr44 Offline
Senior Member
#8
Hey V6TBird87 akward is an understatement! Taking the driver seat out makes it much easier to the brake light switch. I found out the hard way.
Stinger dual3"exhaust from dp & cat to magnaflows w/2.5 outlets w/tailpipes.Homemade CAI w/boost at18psi.MM c/c plates and tubular lca/front coilovers with Koni red adjustables all around. Ported/BV head/A237 and bobslog w/a stinger fmic set-up waiting to go on.86 stang gt w/motor and T-5 from a 86 TC w/3"SS dualexhaust w/cc plates and lowered 1.5".With volvo ic installed.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#9
Quote:Originally posted by Keman:
My brake lights worked very rarely, I found out recently.

I went to replace my brake light switch, and found one of the wires attached to it was broken right where it attached to the switch. It was still attached, but you could plainly feel where the metal was broken inside the insulation. I just crimped a new spade terminal onto it and hooked it directly to it, skipping the plug. I had to pinch the spade terminal with pliars to get it to grip tightly. Has worked good since then.
This is a VERY common problem on all Fords from the 60s on up to the mid - late 90s when the brake light switch design was changed on most models. I have repaired more broken wires at the switch connector than I care to count on many different older Fords. Not always an easy problem to spot, as the wires usually break inside the insulation, so it looks like the wire is intact, when it really isnt. I usually solder a new piece of wire to the connector.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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jesse Offline
Member
#10
a new brake light switch came with my car when i bought it. i had no brake lights at all. when i went to change it i found it was just unhooked. plugged her in and they have been workin great ever since.
~jesse~
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