North American Turbocoupe Organization



A couple of electrical problems on 86 t/c
cardana24 Offline
Junior Member
#1
Hey guys, I picked up an 86 turbo coupe recently from a friend of mine. I got it running well and now I am trying to chase down a few electrical problems.

1) I have a power driver seat but it does not work. I pulled the console up and started back probing wires to see if the switch is getting 12volt power. None of the wires are getting 12 volts with the ignition off or on. So I checked at the circuit breaker in the fuse box, and when I pull that out I am getting constant 12 volts....but I am not able to probe the other side when it it plugged in to see if it is passing the voltage to the other side. Is there a power seat relay and where is it located? What else should I look at?

2)My passenger side power window is not working but the driver side does. So I probed the back side of the switch and it is passing the voltage as it should. Then I took the door panel off and checked the voltage at the motor and it's getting power as it should but it's not doing anything and not making any noise. I am guessing the motor is fried, any other ideas?

3) The cooling fan is on a switch. It works fine but I would like it to work the way it should with the ecm.

*Something to note, all of my fuses look fine*
Reply

Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#2
On the '86, the cooling fan circuit is separate from the PCM. Is is controlled by the coolant temperature switch on the lower intake manifold and there's a relay behind the glove box (I think that's where it is). I can send you a schematic of the circuit if that would help.

If the window motor is getting power, but it's not doing anything at all, then it's most likely a bad motor.

There is no relay for the seats. Sounds like the breaker is bad. You can also check Ground 206 on the Right-hand floor pan to make sure it's clean and tight,
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
Reply

cardana24 Offline
Junior Member
#3
B Wrote:On the '86, the cooling fan circuit is separate from the PCM. Is is controlled by the coolant temperature switch on the lower intake manifold and there's a relay behind the glove box (I think that's where it is). I can send you a schematic of the circuit if that would help.

If the window motor is getting power, but it's not doing anything at all, then it's most likely a bad motor.

There is no relay for the seats. Sounds like the breaker is bad. You can also check Ground 206 on the Right-hand floor pan to make sure it's clean and tight,


Anything would be helpful, thanks for that.

Can you reach the CTS with out removing the upper intake?

Where is a good place to get a replacement motor? It does not seem that the local parts places carry them.

So ground 206 is on the passenger side floor board?

*also my horn does not work*
Reply

Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#4
I sent you an email.

Yeah you can get to the temp switch without taking anything off. *May* be easier to get to from underneath. It's sticking out of the lower intake pointing towards the firewall.

You can get the window motor from rockauto.com for $30 (+shipping). If you do, make sure you use a discount code listed in our part numbers forum!
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
Reply

Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#5
Just sent you another one for the seats
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
When testing power circuits like the power window, power seat, use a test light, not a DMM. DMM will read 12V even if there is high resistance in the circuit.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

cardana24 Offline
Junior Member
#7
What is the correct part for the fan switch? I see three different parts listed. I am not with the car right now, can anyone tell me what type of connection it should have on the top? I am seeing pictures of a double spade connection, pictures of a double "tube like" connection, then one that just has a male threaded post coming off of the top. Any help?

Also, related to this, is the fan switch seperate from the coolant temp sensor? Or are they one in the same?
Reply

cardana24 Offline
Junior Member
#8
cardana24 Wrote:What is the correct part for the fan switch? I see three different parts listed. I am not with the car right now, can anyone tell me what type of connection it should have on the top? I am seeing pictures of a double spade connection, pictures of a double "tube like" connection, then one that just has a male threaded post coming off of the top. Any help?

Also, related to this, is the fan switch seperate from the coolant temp sensor? Or are they one in the same?


I am pretty sure the one with the male threaded post is for the temp gauge in the car. But I am not sure which one is correct between the next two. Any advice

1) spade connection, this one is called a fan switch
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/...fan+switch

2) "tube like" connectors, this one is called a coolant temp sender

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/...fan+switch
Reply

Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#9
It would be #1. #2 is the ECT which works with the PCM. There are actually 3 temp sender/switches on an '86 TC - and 4 if you have EATC. Switch for the fan, sender for the gauge, sender for the PCM, switch for the EATC (Automatic Climate Control). Confusedhocked:
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
Reply

cardana24 Offline
Junior Member
#10
B Wrote:It would be #1. #2 is the ECT which works with the PCM. There are actually 3 temp sender/switches on an '86 TC - and 4 if you have EATC. Switch for the fan, sender for the gauge, sender for the PCM, switch for the EATC (Automatic Climate Control). Confusedhocked:


Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered it from rock auto along with a new window motor for the right side.

I got another circuit breaker for the power seats and I am still not getting any power to the switch. I need to check ground 206 but I have not had a chance to get to it yet....hopefully this weekend.
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB