North American Turbocoupe Organization

A/C System
I finally got my a/c system installed back in the car this afternoon. I just finished running a vaccuum on the system and am waiting to see how it holds up. Assuming all goes well, what is the next step that should be taken?

All the a/c components have been open to atmosphere for at least the last year, so should I run some sort of oil through the system before adding the refridgerant? If so, what type of oil?

Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 136k miles
k&n cone in fenderwell, PRofec B electronic boost controller, kirban adjustable fpr set at 44psi base, walbro 255 hi-pressure pump, Bailey BOV, ported e6, stock IC, a237 cam, mildly ported head, t3/t4 50 trim / stage III .63, full 3" exhaust, eec-tuner, 55pph injectors, dave compton a/f meter, Nitto 555R drag radials
Best 1/4 mile (before tuner, turbo, injectors, drag radials): 14.120 (with 1.983 60' time)
Best trap speed: 98.44mph

[This message has been edited by SteveXX82 (edited 05-14-2003).]

mustanglover32 Offline
Well, don't quote me but you are going to want to get all the moisture out of there first, not sure how it's done but........ as far as oil, there is a retro kit sold at any auto parts store, contains everything you need to get you up and running. It's about $30. Put in the oil charge first and then the 134A.

Wings are for planes!!! (I would know I fly them!)

Jeff K Offline
If the system has been open to the air for a year, the dessicant in the accumulator/dryer is shot. You will need to replace the accumulator/dryer. If the accumulator/dryer is original, and you are converting to 134a, the dessicant isnt 134a comatable, and will break down with 134a in the system, get out of its bag, and plug up the orifice tube. Either way, looks like time to replace the accumulator/dryer.

Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized

TCorBUST Offline
That exact thing happend to me on my '84TC 10 years ago. It was a huge hassle even tough you could still buy R12.

I think the bag broke because I was too rough with the accumulator/dryer when I changed my heater core.

They make a replacement orifice tube kit that allows you to replce the orifice tube if it gets clogged. Basically you cut the old high pressure AC hose to get the orifice tube out section out. The kit has a new section that has compression fittings to attach to the old hose (metal tube section).
It would have been easier to either replace the accumulator/dryer or just be very gentle, but you live and you learn I guess.

I had to replace the new orifce tube several times to get all of the kitty litter out of the system. Imagine what that must have done to the compressor!
'88 TC 5sp, K&N cone, t3.60/.63, ported head, Felpro 1035, Walbro 255 hi pres., Kirban FPR., 3g Alternator

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