North American Turbocoupe Organization



A/C line coupler thingy
Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Doing the heater core thing:
Is there a trick to getting the lower tube coupler spring thing off the evaporator, or do I need the special tool? Is the tool only available from the dealer?
Also, this lower tube is loose. It can be moved at the input to the firewall; and is covered in a sticky oily substance. Is the looseness normal? Before I evacuated the system the A/C did work but very poorly. This bottom line, which appears to be the return to the condenser in front of the car, is covered in oily/tar type substance - almost the whole thing.
The upper hose, on the contrast, is not.
It's all in line with the weak A/C before I discharged it (leaky system), but I'm really concerned about the lower tube being able to move as if the input to the evaporator is cracked.
When I get the heater box out, can I just apply vacuum on the evaporator to check for a leak? $130 for a new one is my last resort.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Matt, I just looked at mine (88) and the bottom connector looks like a garter spring connector and you will need a tool for it.
Most parts stores have one of the following tools. The cheap plastic ones. These have had mixed reviews. They work fine for some people and break for others. NAPA sells a 4 way metal one that has served me well.

I think a mist on the lines is normal, but it sounds like your is more than that and could be a leak. There can be a small amount of back and forth play in these kinds of connections fro mwhat I have seen (limited experience)
Pete Dunham


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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Ah. Ok. Does the nice 4 way one work on pretty much any kind of garter spring coupler? I'm thinking fuel lines on other cars I have. Just been too lazy to buy one.
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Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Quote:Originally posted by Matt S:
Ah. Ok. Does the nice 4 way one work on pretty much any kind of garter spring coupler? I'm thinking fuel lines on other cars I have. Just been too lazy to buy one.

Yep, same 4-way tool works on fuel lines and AC stuff. Man I HATE those things.

I still say they should be called garter hose though LOL !



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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Went shopping and no one had a 4 way tool. All they had were a pair of metal ones - looked like scissors and not small space friendly. And plastic ones. Napa looked at me funny when I said "spring coupler tool".
Suggestions?
No. I don't want oil with that.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
Tell them you want a tool for the fuel line couplings or A/C couplings with the round garter springs. I looked for mine to get the P/N but I can't find it.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Good judgement comes from bad experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm
Pete Dunham


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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Yeah, The Scissor looking metal ones or the plastic ones are all they could show me. I don't like plastic, but they looked easier to use in tight spaces. The 4 way one would be nice as I would never have to buy one again.
Guess I'll go plastic on the space consideration.
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tylerport Offline
Senior Member
#8
Like Pete said, everybody has different opinions. I have had good luck with the cheap plastic ones. I've tried them both and with the space a consideration, the plastic ones worked better/easier for me. Push the tool into the garter spring assembly as far as you can (the shoulder of the tool should just about be flush with the female portion of the coupling) and then twist and pull the lines apart. Pulling on them before the tool is fully seated is a waste of time and energy.

When you go to reassemble, be sure to get new O-rings for all the A/C line couplings (not just the ones you removed for the heater core replacement). Replace them all now while you have the system broke down partially. If memory serves there are 4 locations with the garter spring and 3 different sizes of O-rings. Best to take off the old O-rings and take them to NAPA to get the new ones. Also, buy the best O-rings, not the cheapest ones.

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Jim Portteus
NATO Member
86 Turbo Coupe, LA3 w/ Intercooler and Larger VAM, Gillis Valve, 2 1/2" Downpipe to 2" Duals w/ 18" Glasspacks, 245/50R16's, 140MPH Speedo and new paint.
Jim Portteus
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