North American Turbocoupe Organization

A/C check, repair-Where to start?
anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
(08-11-2019, 08:33 PM)94VERTiGO Wrote: Anyone have a part number for the accumulator/drier that they used when making the conversion to 134a?  I looked at O'reillys and Autozone and O'reillys didn't have anything that looked like mine, Autozone had one that looked like mine, but it was not available. It was a Four Seasons A/C Accumulator 55630, not 100% sure the line was bent to match the turbocoupes but it looked close.

The autozone part said it was compatible with both r12 and r134a in the description, so why is it necessary to change it out?  Is it because it has been in contact with r12 and the dessicant is contaminated?

Oh, and Autozone loans gauges, pump, and spring coupler tools.  I had already gone to Harbor Freight and bought the vacuum pump, so I guess I will keep that, but it is nice to know that they are available for free (payment refunded when tools returned).
First off, while I respect the stories of others and their limited R-134a conversions, *I* wouldn’t do it. The proper way, IMHO, is the procedure described in the R-134a conversion in the Tech articles here. No offense meant to anyone, just my opinion.

Yes, the opinion of everyone I talked to at several A/C shops was that you should replace both the accumulator (also known as a receiver/dryer) and the Orifice Tube, for reason of contamination.

And I can appreciate saving money, but the $60 (less with the 20% discount) is worth it for the gauges. If you have a problem, they’re right where you put them, no need to drive to the parts store, and what if someone else has taken them out to use?

I have the part # from O’Reilly’s for you. It is 60-4520, from Murray Climate Control, and is listed on their website for $22.99, and looks to be a normal stock item. Click here to see it.

A very helpful girl at O’Reilly’s literally went through her A/C book page by page, looking for a match to the OEM accumulator I brought in.

It is a perfect fit! However, you will need an adapter to connect it to your existing system. If you go to the site you’ll see it has a male fitting on the Outlet tube that connects to the evaporator inside the heater box. Unfortunately, the fitting on the evaporator is also has a male fitting (the OEM accumulator has a female fitting). Also, you’ll note that the outlet tube doesn’t have the necessary 180 degree bend that you’ll need to connect, it’s more like a 160 degree one, or something. The solution is to have an A/C shop make you an adapter. Mine is from Air Components in nearby Mesa, AZ, and I could get a part number (although it was a custom fabrication), but I’m certain you can have one made locally. Mine cost $20, if I recall correctly, and took less than 20 minutes to make.

Here is what my setup looks like:

[Image: 2019-08-13%2002.12.44.jpg?dl=0]

Note that it’s just a tube with a slight bend in it, and threaded female adapters on either end. Sorry, I should have sprayed some cleaner on the evaporator’s black hex nut that the adapter connects to, against the firewall, so you could see it better.

I searched for quite literally hours trying to find a replacement part. The Ford part number is considered obsolete; even so, you could not have purchased the correct Motorcraft part for less than $150-200, which is what I paid for a replacement back in 1994. So, $23 plus the cost of the adapter is a steal.

As I said, it is an EXACT fit, except for the fitting and the outlet tube orientation. The Clutch Cycling Switch hooks right up, the Inlet tube from the Orifice Tube connects exactly (that’s the tube with the blue Low Pressure valve and cap), and it fits just so inside the OEM housing/strap attached to the firewall.

If you have any other questions about this project, please don’t hesitate to ask!
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....

Jeff K Offline
Dont know if they still have them,but Rock Auto had both the accumulator/dryer and orifice tube back in 2011 when I completely rebuilt my AC system (including a brand new HR980 compressor I picked up online for around $150). I did have to slightly tweak a few of the bends for a perfect fit. I used R12, as I have a pretty substantial stock of R12 laying around.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized

vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
Rockauto has the AC accumulator (4 seasons 55630 - $46.79) and the liquid line with orifice tube (4 seasons 55602 - $13.04)... get an O ring kit too (motorcraft yf982 - $10.19). It would be a good idea to flush the condenser and evaporator with an AC flush kit and solvent you can get off ebay for ~ $50 total. Get the correct oil for the refrigerant you are using and add that to the system (easiest to pour it in the accumulator) and be sure to lube up all the O rings well with refrigerant oil.

Once you have if all together and evacuated connect one can of refrigerant... purge the air in the refrigerant line by loosening the hose fitting at the gauge before opening up the low side. With the system evacuated, the refrigerant will be pulled in just by opening up the low side. Engine doesn't need to be running... should take most of the first can. Then you can start it up and add the rest of the refrigerant. Be sure to purge the line (loosen low side hose slightly at gauge until some refrigerant escapes) for each can before opening the low side valve.
1987 TC, 5sp

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