North American Turbocoupe Organization



A/C check, repair-Where to start?
anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#11
(08-11-2019, 08:33 PM)94VERTiGO Wrote: Anyone have a part number for the accumulator/drier that they used when making the conversion to 134a?  I looked at O'reillys and Autozone and O'reillys didn't have anything that looked like mine, Autozone had one that looked like mine, but it was not available. It was a Four Seasons A/C Accumulator 55630, not 100% sure the line was bent to match the turbocoupes but it looked close.

The autozone part said it was compatible with both r12 and r134a in the description, so why is it necessary to change it out?  Is it because it has been in contact with r12 and the dessicant is contaminated?

Oh, and Autozone loans gauges, pump, and spring coupler tools.  I had already gone to Harbor Freight and bought the vacuum pump, so I guess I will keep that, but it is nice to know that they are available for free (payment refunded when tools returned).
Thanks,
First off, while I respect the stories of others and their limited R-134a conversions, *I* wouldn’t do it. The proper way, IMHO, is the procedure described in the R-134a conversion in the Tech articles here. No offense meant to anyone, just my opinion.

Yes, the opinion of everyone I talked to at several A/C shops was that you should replace both the accumulator (also known as a receiver/dryer) and the Orifice Tube, for reason of contamination.

And I can appreciate saving money, but the $60 (less with the 20% discount) is worth it for the gauges. If you have a problem, they’re right where you put them, no need to drive to the parts store, and what if someone else has taken them out to use?

I have the part # from O’Reilly’s for you. It is 60-4520, from Murray Climate Control, and is listed on their website for $22.99, and looks to be a normal stock item. Click here to see it.

A very helpful girl at O’Reilly’s literally went through her A/C book page by page, looking for a match to the OEM accumulator I brought in.

It is a perfect fit! However, you will need an adapter to connect it to your existing system. If you go to the site you’ll see it has a male fitting on the Outlet tube that connects to the evaporator inside the heater box. Unfortunately, the fitting on the evaporator is also has a male fitting (the OEM accumulator has a female fitting). Also, you’ll note that the outlet tube doesn’t have the necessary 180 degree bend that you’ll need to connect, it’s more like a 160 degree one, or something. The solution is to have an A/C shop make you an adapter. Mine is from Air Components in nearby Mesa, AZ, and I could get a part number (although it was a custom fabrication), but I’m certain you can have one made locally. Mine cost $20, if I recall correctly, and took less than 20 minutes to make.

Here is what my setup looks like:

[Image: 2019-08-13%2002.12.44.jpg?dl=0]

Note that it’s just a tube with a slight bend in it, and threaded female adapters on either end. Sorry, I should have sprayed some cleaner on the evaporator’s black hex nut that the adapter connects to, against the firewall, so you could see it better.

I searched for quite literally hours trying to find a replacement part. The Ford part number is considered obsolete; even so, you could not have purchased the correct Motorcraft part for less than $150-200, which is what I paid for a replacement back in 1994. So, $23 plus the cost of the adapter is a steal.

As I said, it is an EXACT fit, except for the fitting and the outlet tube orientation. The Clutch Cycling Switch hooks right up, the Inlet tube from the Orifice Tube connects exactly (that’s the tube with the blue Low Pressure valve and cap), and it fits just so inside the OEM housing/strap attached to the firewall.

If you have any other questions about this project, please don’t hesitate to ask!
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#12
Dont know if they still have them,but Rock Auto had both the accumulator/dryer and orifice tube back in 2011 when I completely rebuilt my AC system (including a brand new HR980 compressor I picked up online for around $150). I did have to slightly tweak a few of the bends for a perfect fit. I used R12, as I have a pretty substantial stock of R12 laying around.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#13
Rockauto has the AC accumulator (4 seasons 55630 - $46.79) and the liquid line with orifice tube (4 seasons 55602 - $13.04)... get an O ring kit too (motorcraft yf982 - $10.19). It would be a good idea to flush the condenser and evaporator with an AC flush kit and solvent you can get off ebay for ~ $50 total. Get the correct oil for the refrigerant you are using and add that to the system (easiest to pour it in the accumulator) and be sure to lube up all the O rings well with refrigerant oil.

Once you have if all together and evacuated connect one can of refrigerant... purge the air in the refrigerant line by loosening the hose fitting at the gauge before opening up the low side. With the system evacuated, the refrigerant will be pulled in just by opening up the low side. Engine doesn't need to be running... should take most of the first can. Then you can start it up and add the rest of the refrigerant. Be sure to purge the line (loosen low side hose slightly at gauge until some refrigerant escapes) for each can before opening the low side valve.
1987 TC, 5sp
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94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#14
vegas_ss,
Thanks for those part #'s. I got them from Rock Auto last week and they are perfect. I had to tweak the accumulator/dryer line a bit to make room for the low side coupler to fit under the hose. Orifice line was perfect fit. I went to Lowes and bought some A/C line insulation to put on it to match where the Ford part had insulation.

I got everything done except for charging the system with 134a. Removed compressor Saturday and turned it upside down and let it drip all night. Did not get much oil out of it at all really just a few drops. Hardest part of the job, removing the lines off of the back of the compressor. Literally fought them for over an hour. The line removal tool just barely fit between the hose connection and the compressor and was frustrating as could be.
I cleaned the evaporator, condenser and high pressure hose with a can of flush solvent that I picked up at Autozone. I used compressed air at about 40 psi to blow the solvent out of the parts. Used drilled out rubber stoppers and various tubing and an empty water bottle to catch the solvent.
Pulled a vacuum on the system for a couple hours. Did a leak check and it was good. Tried to charge the system and it did not seem to take the refrigerant. Low side showed 70 psi, high side showed 0 psi. The compressor never engaged. I decided to pull a vacuum on it again and let it sit overnight and I will try again tomorrow to charge the system.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#15
(09-02-2019, 02:48 AM)94VERTiGO Wrote: vegas_ss,
Thanks for those part #'s. I got them from Rock Auto last week and they are perfect.  I had to tweak the accumulator/dryer line a bit to make room for the low side coupler to fit under the hose.  Orifice line was perfect fit. I went to Lowes and bought some A/C line insulation to put on it to match where the Ford part had insulation.

I got everything done except for charging the system with 134a.  Removed compressor Saturday and turned it upside down and let it drip all night. Did not get much oil out of it at all really just a few drops.  Hardest part of the job, removing the lines off of the back of the compressor.  Literally fought them for over an hour.  The line removal tool just barely fit between the hose connection and the compressor and was frustrating as could be.
I cleaned the evaporator, condenser and high pressure hose with a can of flush solvent that I picked up at Autozone.  I used compressed air at about 40 psi to blow the solvent out of the parts.  Used drilled out rubber stoppers and various tubing and an empty water bottle to catch the solvent. 
Pulled a vacuum on the system for a couple hours. Did a leak check and it was good.  Tried to charge the system and it did not seem to take the refrigerant.  Low side showed 70 psi, high side showed 0 psi.  The compressor never engaged. I decided to pull a vacuum on it again and let it sit overnight and I will try again tomorrow to charge the system.

I had a similar problem. I vacuumed and vacuumed the system, checked for leaks, all good. When I tried to charge the system I couldn’t pull the refrigerant out of the can. It turned out that one of the adapters I had purchased from NAPA was defective and wasn’t opening the Shrader valve on the low side. I had a spare and installed it, and tried vacuuming the system again. To my great surprise and delight all kinds of junk suddenly appeared in the sight glass of the vacuum pump, gunk that was in the low side apparently that I was only now removing because the valve was finally open!

After that it was a breeze. The conversation that had actually taken hours the day before and that day was done in a matter of minutes, after I ran the vacuum pump for an hour and checked for leaks for 15 minutes. I went through 3 1/2 cans of R-134a—the system emptied the cans quickly, and I was done! 55 degrees on the digital thermometer stuck into a dashboard vent, with the EATC set on 60.

It’s a pretty simple procedure and shouldn’t cause problems. Check your valve adapters for an issue, that could be it.

Also, it’s great to hear you were able to find the receiver/drier on Rock Auto. I have to admit I did not think of looking there. The orifice tube should be available most anywhere—or at least it was.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#16
(09-02-2019, 02:48 AM)94VERTiGO Wrote: vegas_ss,
Thanks for those part #'s. I got them from Rock Auto last week and they are perfect.  I had to tweak the accumulator/dryer line a bit to make room for the low side coupler to fit under the hose.  Orifice line was perfect fit. I went to Lowes and bought some A/C line insulation to put on it to match where the Ford part had insulation.

I got everything done except for charging the system with 134a.  Removed compressor Saturday and turned it upside down and let it drip all night. Did not get much oil out of it at all really just a few drops.  Hardest part of the job, removing the lines off of the back of the compressor.  Literally fought them for over an hour.  The line removal tool just barely fit between the hose connection and the compressor and was frustrating as could be.
I cleaned the evaporator, condenser and high pressure hose with a can of flush solvent that I picked up at Autozone.  I used compressed air at about 40 psi to blow the solvent out of the parts.  Used drilled out rubber stoppers and various tubing and an empty water bottle to catch the solvent. 
Pulled a vacuum on the system for a couple hours. Did a leak check and it was good.  Tried to charge the system and it did not seem to take the refrigerant.  Low side showed 70 psi, high side showed 0 psi.  The compressor never engaged. I decided to pull a vacuum on it again and let it sit overnight and I will try again tomorrow to charge the system.

I just went to RockAuto’s site and found the receiver/drier (4 Seasons 55630) you got. Did it come with that tube/hose attached, and how did that fit?

Meaning no offense or criticism, but depending on what how you respond I’ll likely keep the setup I have, meaning that if/when I need to replace the receiver/drier again I’ll probably go back to O’Reilly’s for the same one. Even though I needed an adapter, my unit didn’t have that hose/tube attached and was therefore (I think) closer to the OEM setup, which is important to me.

Just my opinion.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#17
Yes, the receiver dryer did come with the hose and it was a direct fit, with some slight tweaking of the hose to make room for the 134 adapter on top. The coupler for the gauge set would not fit without bending the tube a bit.

Just to clarify. When charging... yellow hose on the can, blue hose on the low side both valves open on the blue hose (valve at gauge set and valve at coupler) attached to receiver /dryer). You don't need the red (hi side) hose attached at all do you?
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94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#18
I completed the conversion of parts and O'rings to 134a. I started charging the system and put in 1 can or 134a and pressures went to 110 both high side and low side. The compressor never came on to pull in more refrigerant. I kept the car running for more than 30 minutes, hoping it would take in more refrigerant, but no change so I stopped trying to charge. I returned the autozone gauges thinking they may be bad and bought new ones at Harbor Freight. Went home to charge the system again. Same result although I got 1 1/2 cans to go into the system this time, but the compressor never came on.

So, I pulled out the voltmeter and checked for voltage at the 2 wire plug at compressor. I measured about 150mV at plug. Not sure what the voltage should be, but I figured since there was a measurable amount that it may be ok.

What now, could the clutch be bad?
I guess the compressor may be shot, but when I was draining the oil, I spun the clutch and the compressor sounded like it would work (it sounded like it was pumping air).
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#19
Pull the 2 pin electrical connector off the CCPS on the accumulator / dryer. Set dash controls to AC ON. One of the 2 terminals should have 12 V whenever AC is switched on. Check with a test light NOT a DMM. If that checks out, jumper the CCPS terminals. AC comp clutch should pull in. If it does pull in with CCPS jumped, replace the CCPS. I have had a few CCPS fail on several Fords over years, the last being on my 95 Taurus winter beater a couple years ago.

Can also pull connector off the clutch and measure clutch resistance. Should be 3 to 4 or so ohms. If that checks out, jump clutch coil with 12V from battery and ground and see if it pulls in.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#20
Thanks, Jeff. I will check those out as soon as I can and report what happens.
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