North American Turbocoupe Organization



A/C check, repair-Where to start?
anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#21
(09-02-2019, 04:45 PM)94VERTiGO Wrote: Yes, the receiver dryer did come with the hose and it was a direct fit, with some slight tweaking of the hose to make room for the 134 adapter on top.  The coupler for the gauge set would not fit without bending the tube a bit. 

Just to clarify.  When charging... yellow hose on the can, blue hose on the low side both valves open on the blue hose (valve at gauge set and valve at coupler) attached to  receiver /dryer).  You don't need the red (hi side) hose attached at all do you?

Yes you should connect the red high side hose, but do NOT open either of the valves. Yes, the low side is the blue valve cap on the receiver/dryer

While it’s true that you’re not using the high side valves, I would connect it up anyway as that completes the A/C circuit, so to speak. There is always the possibility one of the low side valves or yellow vacuum line could leak due to dirt in the line, etc., as could the high side valve(s), and now you’re leaking Freon out of the unconnected red hose.

I realize that’s a very slim chance, but why take ANY chances? It only takes a minute to complete that connection.

All other things being equal, I would tend to agree with Jeff that it could be the Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch (CCPS), or the magnetic clutch. My experience with the HR980 compressor is unless you’ve got a bad internal seal (unlikely), the thing either works or it locks up when it fails. I cut one open once—it took hours with an angle grinder to get through the housing, but I wanted to see how it worked. Inside is an example of a Scotch yoke , which is shown in the picture on that link’s web page. There are actually TWO pistons working together. The disturbing thing is the whole assembly appears to made from what we used to call Pot metal, which generally isn’t very strong or durable.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#22
Success!!!! Thanks to all for your input. Turns out the switch that Jeff K suggest that I check was bad. Bought it yesterday and had to wait until today to pick it up at O'Reilly's . A/C is running and cold air is coming out the vents.

I have a couple questions still...I know it'll never end will it....
What pressures should I be expecting (Currently seeing 55 and 195) it is about 90ish degrees here in Cary, NC today.
The compressor is running all the time. I guess when it starts cycling on and off, I am getting close to enough 134a, correct? Lost count of how much actually went in but today I have put in 2 1/2 cans and there probably was close to a can already in the system so I know I am close. I am going to go to the store and pick up 1 more can and continue adding .
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#23
How much 134a did you add? Should only use 80% of the R12 fill...... around 25 to 28 or so ounces of 134a. Low fill will result in fast compressor cycling on and off. Overfill comp will run continuously and pressures on both low and high side will be high. You low side press sounds somewhat high, and your high side pressure sounds a hair low for 90F ambient temp.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#24
I think there is about 4 cans in there which equals 48 oz.  The compressor does not shut off so there has to be too much 134a in there.  The compressor went from on / off every couple seconds to on all the time real quick, must be a very small window to hit the sweet spot.  I will stop by a shop and ask them to safely evacuate the overage and get them to optimize the settings.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#25
(09-09-2019, 02:31 AM)94VERTiGO Wrote: I think there is about 4 cans in there which equals 48 oz.  The compressor does not shut off so there has to be too much 134a in there.  The compressor went from on / off every couple seconds to on all the time real quick, must be a very small window to hit the sweet spot.  I will stop by a shop and ask them to safely evacuate the overage and get them to optimize the settings.

I would disagree that constant engagement is a bad thing. Mine only cycles when the temp is around 70-75. One thing for certain: at 90 there shouldn’t be much cycling if you have the correct amount in there.

Don’t be in such a hurry to change things—be CERTAIN there is a problem before you take action. As long as you’re not at 250-275 at 90 degrees you’re probably ok. It can take a few days, with all those new parts, before the system equalizes a bit.

If you really did get 4 cans in there that’s likely a bit too much. The odd thing about the A/C, in my experience, is that it’s hard to seriously overcharge it, the system won’t take it.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#26
^^^^ My AC comp will only run constantly if engine is at is at idle and ambient temps are 90+ F once the interior inititally cools down. At interstate speeds it will cycle at roughly a 40% to 60% duty cycle with ambient temps in the mid 80s thru mid 90s. The Ford shop manuals have graphs showing duty cycle, on time, off time, etc under various conditions (engine RPM, ambient temp, etc) and my AC cycling fits right in the middle of the ranges on the graphs.

FYI, I still run R-12, and after the system has been running for a while center vent discharge temps hover right around 42 deg F.

48 oz is WAY too much 134a. Everything I have read says to use 80% of the R12 charge when using 134a. I have converted a few cars from 12 to 134a and have found that this 80% number is about right.

I am wondering if the compressor is weak considering the somewhat low high side pressure and somewhat high low side pressure.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#27
(09-11-2019, 11:40 AM)Jeff K Wrote: ^^^^ My AC comp will only run constantly if engine is at is at idle and ambient temps are 90+ F once the interior inititally cools down. At interstate speeds it will cycle at roughly a 40% to 60% duty cycle with ambient temps in the mid 80s thru mid 90s.  The Ford shop manuals have graphs showing duty cycle, on time, off time, etc under various conditions (engine RPM, ambient temp, etc) and my AC cycling fits right in the middle of the ranges on the graphs.

FYI, I still run R-12, and after the system has been running for a while center vent discharge temps hover right around 42 deg F.

48 oz is WAY too much 134a. Everything I have read says to use 80% of the R12 charge when using 134a.  I have converted a few cars from 12 to 134a and have found that this 80% number is about right.

I am wondering if the compressor is weak considering the somewhat low high side pressure and somewhat high low side pressure.

I should have added that I only used 2 1/2 cans (12 oz.) when I converted mine; maybe I did mention that before.

Jeff, what are your thoughts on a possible small leak in his system? That would account for how he was able to get so much in there and the current pressure issues.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#28
Sure could be a leak somewhere. I wonder if all the O rings in the system were replaced with the green 134a compatible ones? The older black O rings will leak badly and deteriorate rather quickly with 134a.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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94VERTiGO Offline
Junior Member
#29
Hey guys.  Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. 
I think I replaced all the o-rings with the green ones.  All connections that were opened and the new lines that were replaced were changed to green o-rings.  There were replacement o-rings at the two lines at the compressor, at the one line at the firewall and at the ends of the orifice tube line.  There were green o-rings with the new low pressure compressor cut-off switch.  I leak checked at least 5 times and twice overnight since it took a couple days to charge the system.  I really don't think there is a leak.
But, if the choices are weak compressor or leak, I will choose leak anytime. 
My daily driver(s) are a few motorcycles that I ride most of the time. I have not driven the turbocoupe this week, but will get it to a shop to check out the pressures and evacuate any overcharge in the system.  I am sure they will perform a leak check as well.  I will let you know what they find.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#30
(09-13-2019, 01:26 AM)94VERTiGO Wrote: Hey guys.  Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. 
I think I replaced all the o-rings with the green ones.  All connections that were opened and the new lines that were replaced were changed to green o-rings.  There were replacement o-rings at the two lines at the compressor, at the one line at the firewall and at the ends of the orifice tube line.  There were green o-rings with the new low pressure compressor cut-off switch.  I leak checked at least 5 times and twice overnight since it took a couple days to charge the system.  I really don't think there is a leak.
But, if the choices are weak compressor or leak, I will choose leak anytime. 
My daily driver(s) are a few motorcycles that I ride most of the time. I have not driven the turbocoupe this week, but will get it to a shop to check out the pressures and evacuate any overcharge in the system.  I am sure they will perform a leak check as well.  I will let you know what they find.

Well, it goes without saying—which means that I have to say it anyway (because it’s so obvious)....

Did you lubricate the green o-rings with Ester oil when you installed them?

I have seen older black o-rings torn and misshapen, presumably because they weren’t properly oiled before installation. I have heard that the green ones are a bit more “stout”, which means less likely to tear. Still....
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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