North American Turbocoupe Organization



94 Ranger 2.3... what can I get out of it???
ridgeback Offline
Member
#1
So I was thinking about upgrading the cam to a roller setup and didn't see much available from 94 and under (which I understand is the right years to look?) so I gave up the search until I overheard a guy at the DMV about his 94 Ranger 2.3 going to the scrap yard soon cause he just didn't want to repair the rusted suspension. I have his contact info now and I need to know asap if that is the right truck to pick parts from and if yes, what else could I benefit from it besides the roller cam???

I may have to buy the whole truck and then strip it and junk it myself tho.
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
What do you expect from the Ranger cam? Longer cam life is good. If you expect more HP, it probable isn't there. You would be better off to look for a different roller with better specs, like more lift.
Pete Dunham


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ridgeback Offline
Member
#3
Main reason was because after my Aux shaft repair and listening to the engine run after 3 yrs of sitting, I don't recall the loud clanging noise coming from the cam. There was no work done to the upper half of the engine. Once engine reaches running temp the noise is gone and I noticed the oil pressure at running temp is at the lowest mark of normal on the gauge but when cold/warm the oil pressure is in the higher center mark of the gauge which is when all the diesel clanging sounds are heard.

here is a link to a 15sec audio of the clanging. Not very loud on audio but trust me it is in person.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/28rdyxwrfz5ky1...k.amr?dl=0
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
Why not pop the valve cover and look it over. Yes it could be the cam or a follower or both. Or a lifter (HLA)problem.
Pete Dunham


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ridgeback Offline
Member
#5
well I was hoping not to after putting all the time into pulling the engine and repairing the Aux. & Dist gears along with all lower seals and gaskets. But after today I see that I am slowly slinging oil from the cam seal so I guess I have no choice.

Now the thing is, I have no idea what to look for under the cover. All my mechanical repair experience has been from below the head and back to the rear bumper. Looking under the valve cover will be new to me and I'm not sure what to look for as far as damage, or what is causing the clanging sound. Obviously I will replace the front cam seal and cover gasket.

Now the big question is, now that I am in there, do I go ahead with a $95 purchase of a used set of "Ranger 2.3 CAM AND ROLLER FOLLOWERS" or just hope to find and easy repair on my original 110k cam or rockers?

thoughts???

BTW, i took her around the block for her first test run and the tires were letting lose in the rear with hardly any effort... God I love that feeling!
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
The cam seal can be (carefully) replaced by removing the valve cover

Look at the tips of the cam lobes. If any are worn such that your thumbnail catches on either edge of the lobe as you move across it, the cam is toast. That's the poor man's way of assessing cam wear. If the cam is bad, the stock follower(s)are bad. With 110K on it, if you replace the cam, I would recommend replacing the springs also.

The cam seal is exactly the same as the aux shaft seal. I recommend using either the reusable Ford Ranger neoprene valve gasket with the metal grommets around the bolt holes, expensive.
Felpro makes a similar reusable gasket with grommets, not as expensive but some don't like it. Mine has worked OK and the valve cover has been on and off a few times.

To roller or not to roller, that is the question. The 2.3 OHC is a notorious slider cam eater. If you got a chance to get a cheap roller and follower set and you are satisfied it's in good shape, go for it.
Pete Dunham


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ridgeback Offline
Member
#7
Thanks Pete!

Cover is coming off in a few minutes and I will let you know what I find.


Ron

Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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ridgeback Offline
Member
#8
ok so looking at all the lobes on he cam, I have to say that there is nothing really that catches a nail but the majority of them are smoothly grooved... Almost like a smooth but uneven worn brake rotor. I have a pic of the worst one which happens to be the furthest in the back.... see link

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w9xmypa51hkmzg...e.JPG?dl=0

whats the typical scenario when changing out a cam... change the cam bearings also or leave as is if they look good. Also I need a link to a goo cam replacement write up. I assume I need a puller to get this out?? and whats the easiest way not to hit all the rockers when pulling??? etc.
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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ridgeback Offline
Member
#9
I just learned that there is a Cam retaining clip held in place by 2 philip screws just as in the Aux shaft BUT THEY"RE IN THE BACK OF THE HEAD!!! Is this going to be possible while the engine is in the car? Anyone remove this clip while engine still in the bay??
Special tools needed???

I should of just done this while I had the engine out... so pissed!
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#10
I don't like the way that lobe looks. Now would be a good time for a cam change

It's possible to do. You need to get a philip's screws driver That has a 90* bend near the working ends.


this will allow removal of the retaining screws in the back of the head.

You need to remove the followers before you pull the old cam. For that you need a valve spring compressor and an air compressor to put compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valves closed. Valve spring compressor: http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/Valve_Spr...g_Comp.htm

See this article on changing the cam and the link on cam belt change within this article: http://www.turboford.org/faq/cam_swap.shtml Changing the cam belt while you are at it is a good idea. Need changed every 60K.
Pete Dunham


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