Jake Edwards
Joined:
Jan 2007
Mansfield Ohio
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OK, here is the problem. I have a hard pedal, and the car is almost impossible to stop. The brake light and ABS light are both on. I've used the tech article written by Jeff to troubleshoot the problem (BTW, thanks Jeff!)Here are the results:
-after jumpering the connections at the relay, the pump ran.
-hooking the pump up directly to the pump also caused it to run.
-There is a constant 12V at the relay.
-After letting the car sit for a while and pumping the brakes about 30 times and turning the key to run, the pump does not run. I checked the wire at the relay (color escapes me right now) but it did show that there was 12V getting out to the relay, which tells me that the relay is good and so is the ignition switch.
-After jumpering pins 1 and 4 at the PWS, the pump also ran.
This tells me that the PWS is bad. Would this be correct? My other problem is that once I figured it was the PWS, the next problem I ran into was getting the thing out! I've scanned through previous posts and some say that taking the whole assembly out is the easiest way to do it and others say that they've gotten it out w/o removing the whole assembly. This car was mine in High School and has since become my mom's only form of transportation. I would love to get her back on the road soon, so any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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Jake Edwards
Joined:
Jan 2007
Mansfield Ohio
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Another quick question: Where is the best place to get a pressure switch and does anybody have a part number?
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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Sounds like the problem is the PWS if jumpering the pins in the PWS connector made the pump run. I THINK they are still available from Ford, for around $130 or so. Could always post in the parts wanted section here or over at TF to see if anyone has a used one.
I seem to remember that there is a "special" socket designed to remove it, but that isnt really necessary. One way to free up some room to get at it is to remove the upper intake, which is pretty easy. The biggest hassle is removing the small screw in the bracket that holds the dipstick to the lower intake bolt.
I forget vthe torque spec on the PWS, but it isnt real big, so once you get at it, getting it out shouldnt be that big a deal.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Jake Edwards
Joined:
Jan 2007
Mansfield Ohio
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Thanks Jeff. This TC is in bad shape mechanically. I noticed that the other relay under the vaccuum tree had a few loose/burnt wires on it. From what I've read, it would not effect the normal brake system. Is that true also? BTW, I did remove the upper intake on the engine, was able to get a small pair of vice grips on the sensor, but the thing still would not break loose. Guess I'll have to just keep getting at it!
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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Other relay is the ABS power relay. Not uncommon to find cracked / heat damaged insulation on wires to either relay. Even is ABS relay / wiring is bad, it will not in any way effect regular power braking.
The PWS has hex flats on it, and a deep socket of the correct size (which I dont know) should make removal less painful.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Jake Edwards
Joined:
Jan 2007
Mansfield Ohio
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Just an update, I ordered the part from Ford, online. The switch was $120 and should be here in a few days time. If anyone knows the size of the socket I need for the switch, I'd appreciate it! If not, I can just wait until it gets to the house and take it to the store.
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Jake Edwards
Joined:
Jan 2007
Mansfield Ohio
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Update - the socket I got from NAPA is a 36mm deep well. They only had it in an impact socket and it set me back $30! Will be doing the work this weekend. I'll let you all know how it goes!
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Bluegoat66
Joined:
Mar 2007
rockton,illinois
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Hi,I am new to this website,having recently purchased a used 88 turbo coupe,have found it to be very helpful with tech articles. I now have this same problem and found the pws to be bad as well.Unfortunatley the ford dealers around here cant find the part number for this switch.Was wondering if you could help me out with the part number? I have tried to get the old one out,but no tool I have seems to fit.How did that socket work out for you? Thanks.
1988 stock white T/C 5spd
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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I think it is called a anti-lock pressure switch. I haven't found a # either
Pete Dunham
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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I have seen 2 "official" names for the switch in the Ford shop manuals. One name, mostly seen in the EVTM and chassis / electrical manual is antilock pressure switch. Other name, seen in the seperate ABS diagnostics, is the PWS (pressure warning switch).
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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