North American Turbocoupe Organization



88 Turbo Coupe Help
uwntsumrtII Offline
Junior Member
#1
hey all, kinda new here. i been havin issues with my moms 88 Turbo Coupe. for the longest time it would surge under load. kick, buck and what not. i added a can of SeaFoam to a full tank of premium. it gave imediate results than went to shit again. so i performed a full tune up on it. cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, K&N air filter & a fuel filter. once again it gave imediate results then became even worse than before. now it stumbles/misses all over the place including idle. performed a fuel pressure test, tested the IAC and TPS, swapped out injectors, checked and reset the timming (with the lil chip pulled) and have had no luck. so i replaced the TFI and onc again it gave me imediate results. seemed the problem was about fixed. only had slight misses here and there. then it went all to shit again. i have a new ECC on the way. other than that the premium fuel selector switch might be bad. could this be the problem? it's disconnected right now.

i'm about all out of options. please help

Thanks
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Dan S Offline
Administrator
#2
Did you run the codes? You can spend a ton of money replacing parts, or you can pull the codes and the car will give you a good idea of what's wrong. If you don't have a code reader, they are available at Wal-Mart for less than $40.00 in most areas.

Start there and we'll see if there is something we can help you fix.
Dan S
Custom 88 TC, Mandarin Copper Pearl Metallic
http://natomessageboard.com/ubbthreads.p...5#comments
1972 Ford F-100 SWB Styleside
2015 Lincoln MKC 2.3 EcoBoost AWD
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Chances may be a bad connection/broken wire (hidden) somewhere. 3 times you have done things and it straightened out briefly and then went bad, again. That kinda says the problem was never fixed, just temporarily disturbed,
Try doing the wiggle test with all the wiring (TFI in particular) with the engine idleing and see if anything happens
Pete Dunham


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uwntsumrtII Offline
Junior Member
#4
came up with code 14

PROFILE INGNITION PICKUP (PIP) SIGNAL WAS ERRATIC OR OUT OF LIMITS FOR A SHORE TIME ON AN INTERMITTENT BASIS DURING VEHICLE OPERATION.

what does the PIP look like and where is it located?
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uwntsumrtII Offline
Junior Member
#5
i wiggled, poked and prodded all kinds of stuff with no changes. i'll try it again.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
It's located inside the distributor. Lots of things can cause that code including, harness issues, EMI/RFI from bad plug wires, cap, rotor, etc., or bad grounds. . Kinda fits in with what you describe and what I recommended above.

There is a picture of the PIP in this article but I'm not sure the PIP is the real problem.
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/TFI-PIP/TFI-PIP.htm
Pete Dunham


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uwntsumrtII Offline
Junior Member
#7
ok, so this is the prognosis. i unplugged the lil timming advance/retard (which ever it is) chip and the problem is gone.

can i just make a jumper wire to connect the two leeds together? or is this an actual chip of some sort?
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Steve B Offline
Member
#8
You are using motorcraft tune up parts and not cheap parts store parts right? That gave me some similiar problems for awhile.
Steve
1988 TC 5 Speed, Med Red, 60/48 T3, 24 PSI, Ranger Cam, Mallory 2 Step, 3" Dual Exhaust, FMIC w/ Forge BOV
Current Best 14.5 @ 93.64
My Car
More
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
I'm assuming you are talking about unplugging the spout plug, in th ewiring harness to the TFI mounted on the outside of the distributor?? If this is the case, it should bew unplugged to set the ignition timing then plugged back in after the timing has been set to 10* BTC. If you plug is actually bad you could use a wire to branch the leads, or better yet install a switch to facilitate future timing adjustments
Pete Dunham


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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#10
Yes!
We can't stress this enough. Motorcraft parts. Or at least Napa brand. The pip can give a code with cheap (autolite type) wires I believe.

The plug you removed is simply a jumper so the tfi can't set timing. Without it your timing should read 10* btdc and with it plugged in it should read around 30* at hot idle.

Read this post and do everything on it; it comes from personal experience too Wink . The electrical system espcecially is flaky without quality parts.
Buy the timing light, fuel pressure gauge, and vacuum gauge, don't guess where it is.
http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...0;t=000004
Sold it Sad*
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