88 Turbo Coupe Falls On It's Face in Boost

Sorry it's been really cold and I haven't had a chance to work on it.

I can't seem to get my CEL to work (replaced the bulb) to check the EEC. So I was thinking about doing this method, but it says it only works with EEC-IV. I am unsure of what EEC version the 88 Turbo Coupe is. Does anyone know? If it's not EEC-IV could someone tell me how to use a light tester with it? Trying to figure this out with around the house tools, vs buying a an analog voltmeter.
[Image: ford-test-light-method.jpg]

Do you have a front mount IC or the stock top mount?

If factory IC, check the small rubber collar joining the turbo to the intercooler. I had the exact same thing happen and as soon as boost would build the collar would pop off pressure and the car would feel like the ignition was shut off. Driving normal was fine, the second you got boost, done.

Front mount, I'll check it out Saturday to see.

If you replace the dist, replace the aux shaft also. If you dont replace both, old aux shaft gear and new dist gear may not "mesh" properly, causing the softer dist gear to get chewed up causing the engine to quit unexpectedly and put ground up gear parts thru the entire engine = not good. Replacing the PIP isnt that hard. Getting the gear off the dist shaft is a bit tricky, but not really that hard to do. Drive out rol pin, remove with gear puller. To install heat gear in oven, put dist in freezer to make it easier to get the gear back on.

Sounds like it would be best to just replace the PIP if it came down to it.

I had a 1987 turbo coupe way back in the mid 90's that did something like that. Turned out there was a SSM from Ford to replace the PCM with an updated one. That is a long shot though.

I doubt they manufacture it anymore to do a replacement.

It is EEC IV / TFI.

Does the CEL come on when the key is turned to RUN but the engine isnt running? It should.

Common failure in the PCM are leaky electrolytic capacitors. You can replace bad ones yourself.

I had a similar issue with my '84 Mustang GT Turbo. Turned out to be the wastegate actuator diaphragm had ruptured and wasn't articulating the wastegate.

It is EEC IV / TFI.

Does the CEL come on when the key is turned to RUN but the engine isnt running? It should.

Common failure in the PCM are leaky electrolytic capacitors. You can replace bad ones yourself.

Nope. I looked behind the cluster, there's no conduction in either check engine light socket (I have two for some reason) So if it is EEC IV then the above image with a light tester should work correct? I'll give it a go later today.

I thought our PCMs lasted 20 years sitting around? I can just open it and see if it's bad right?

Odd thing is, my Scion did the same thing a couple days ago. Going down the road, couldn't give it any gas, RPM slowly going lower and lower until I came to a complete stop. Restarted, had to floor it to get it to go. Turned out an animal chewed through a wire on my IAC connector. Had to go to junk yard and solder a new one one. Gonna look around for messed up wires as well.

I had a similar issue with my '84 Mustang GT Turbo. Turned out to be the wastegate actuator diaphragm had ruptured and wasn't articulating the wastegate.

I'll check that out as well. I just take it off and look inside or is there an easier way?

No clue what you mean by "no conduction to either CEL socket"? Do you mean no circuit traces going to the socket?

I have at least 4 88 clusters laying round, and none have TWO locations for a CEL. How did you determine this? Shine a light thru the open hole and two had "yellow CHECK ENGINE" written on them? Are you sure one didnt say CHECK TURBO?

All 88 MY should have a CEL.... it was federal law by 88.

You can pull the PCM and open it up (4 mm socket needed), but you have to know what you are looking for, and if it has a damaged driver transistor you wot be able to tell by just looking at it.

Last time I looked, reman PCMs were still available. There are online companies that repair PCMs also.

To test WGA, apply 10 psi to it and listen for air leaks and see if the rod starts to move.

No clue what you mean by "no conduction to either CEL socket"? Do you mean no circuit traces going to the socket?
[color:#FF0000]Correct, there are no circuits. The right side has what appears to be a circuit, but it's in the plastic and the plastic has no hole for me to put a socket.[/color]

I have at least 4 88 clusters laying round, and none have TWO locations for a CEL. How did you determine this? Shine a light thru the open hole and two had "yellow CHECK ENGINE" written on them? Are you sure one didnt say CHECK TURBO?
[color:#FF0000]Positive. Far left side had Check Engine, far right side Had Check Engine. Battery Amp and Fuel gauge on the right side right? Trying to make sure I have the right cluster in there, because it is modified with white faces and blue back light.[/color]

Also I tried this method:
[Image: ford-test-light-method.jpg]

I did exactly in that picture, started the car, and the light just stayed solid.