88 turbo coupe cooling fan running all the time

The only IRCM failures I have heard of are a failure of one of the relays inside, but in general failures are rare.

98% of the old EEC IV PCM failures I have seen or heard of are due to aging electrolytic capacitors. Failed caps are generally obvious..... they expel a waxy gooey electrolyte out the bottom. Failed caps can be replaced relatively easily if you have decent soldering skills. I have personally never seen or even heard of failures of any of the ICs or MOSFET switching transistors. There are PCM repair companies out there (google is your friend) that repair the MUCH more complex OBDII PCMs, and may also repair our older PCMs.

You are right about both fans briefly running during the KOEO PCM self test, and the main fan running continuously during the KOER self test.

I have a vague recollection that the main fan control wire from the PCM to the IRCM is brown but dont hold me to that. When I will get some time I will try to remember to have a look at my EVTM (i.e., circuit diagrams) and verify the color.

Hi Jeff K,,,,,,,Arnold Booth  AGAIN,,,,,,,lol.....Jeff my original problems have come back,,,,,,if you remember i was having a problem with my fuel pump and primary cooling fan running with the key on only.......and i had a general poor running issue which has been fixed,,,,,was just plain bad /dirty fuel.........  dang ethanol gas.....not sure if you keep any correspondence but our initial e-mails were back last Sept...... i have been driving the car since Sept,,,,,,running just fine with no issues......well 2 weeks ago i drove the car,,,,,,ran like a sewing machine,,,,,came home shut it down......didnt drive/run the car for 4 or 5 days......went to drive it and turn the key on,,,,,,,,the cooling fan and fuel pump started running continuously,,,,,tried to start and engine turned over fine but would not start,,,,,,like the ignition had been inhibited/blocked or something,,,,,,i disconnected the IRCM and turned the key on and no fan or fuel pump operated....correct me if i am wrong but,,,,,#1 the cooling fan should not be running.....#2 think the fuel pump is timed in that it just runs momentarily to charge the fuel rail and shuts off until the engine is started and running......so......i am ready to put a stick of dynamite inside and blow the car up....lol...J/K...but my frustration level is up a bit just because of the lack of knowledge and education on all the electroinc systems and how they intermingle......i do not understand how it could be running so good,,,,,,i drive in and shut it off,,,,,sits for a few days and then wont even start,,,,,,,,the no start issue has never happened.......... it has always ran even though it was crappie until i got the fuel issue solved.........does any of this make any sense to you? Is something inhibiting the ignition?  Is the ignition tied too the fan fuel pump running issue or is it totally separate? It seems in all my reading and researching i had seen bad ignition switches causing problems like this  or am i just grasping at straws?....Any advice/help would be more than appreciated ...............88 Turbo coupe                                                                                           

It's most likely not starting, when the fuel pump and cooling fan runs constantly, due to lack of fuel injector pulse from the EEC. This ignition system does not need the EEC as the ignition is fired from the PIP/TFI module (base timing) and the EEC just adjusts that timing.

Fuel pump and cooling fan running constantly while engine is off is a good indication of a failed EEC.

So, Arnold to take it a step further and to kind of state the obvious: You might need a need a new EEC-IV computer module. I’m not sure how difficult those are to locate as I have had no need for a replacement (they are pretty low on the items that you’ll replace, unless somehow it gets damaged). I was about the comment that probably any EEC-IV one would do, as long as it was from the Turbo Coupe date range of 1983-88, but then I realized there were several models that used it and I have no idea how specialized it was.

I say “might” because of course the first step in many diagnoses is to replace the suspect part with a known good part. Obviously if it fixes it, then there you go and “Bob’s your uncle” (I love that expression!). If not, then it’s time to move on to the next step, whatever that might be.

The only IRCM failures I have heard of are a failure of one of the relays inside, but in general failures are rare.

98% of the old EEC IV PCM failures I have seen or heard of are due to aging electrolytic capacitors. Failed caps are generally obvious..... they expel a waxy gooey electrolyte out the bottom. Failed caps can be replaced relatively easily if you have decent soldering skills. I have personally never seen or even heard of failures of any of the ICs or MOSFET switching transistors. There are PCM repair companies out there (google is your friend) that repair the MUCH more complex OBDII PCMs, and may also repair our older PCMs.

You are right about both fans briefly running during the KOEO PCM self test, and the main fan running continuously during the KOER self test.

I have a vague recollection that the main fan control wire from the PCM to the IRCM is brown but dont hold me to that. When I will get some time I will try to remember to have a look at my EVTM (i.e., circuit diagrams) and verify the color.

Hi Jeff K,,,,,,,Arnold Booth  AGAIN,,,,,,,lol.....Jeff my original problems have come back,,,,,,if you remember i was having a problem with my fuel pump and primary cooling fan running with the key on only.......and i had a general poor running issue which has been fixed,,,,,was just plain bad /dirty fuel.........  dang ethanol gas.....not sure if you keep any correspondence but our initial e-mails were back last Sept...... i have been driving the car since Sept,,,,,,running just fine with no issues......well 2 weeks ago i drove the car,,,,,,ran like a sewing machine,,,,,came home shut it down......didnt drive/run the car for 4 or 5 days......went to drive it and turn the key on,,,,,,,,the cooling fan and fuel pump started running continuously,,,,,tried to start and engine turned over fine but would not start,,,,,,like the ignition had been inhibited/blocked or something,,,,,,i disconnected the IRCM and turned the key on and no fan or fuel pump operated....correct me if i am wrong but,,,,,#1 the cooling fan should not be running.....#2 think the fuel pump is timed in that it just runs momentarily to charge the fuel rail and shuts off until the engine is started and running......so......i am ready to put a stick of dynamite inside and blow the car up....lol...J/K...but my frustration level is up a bit just because of the lack of knowledge and education on all the electroinc systems and how they intermingle......i do not understand how it could be running so good,,,,,,i drive in and shut it off,,,,,sits for a few days and then wont even start,,,,,,,,the no start issue has never happened.......... it has always ran even though it was crappie until i got the fuel issue solved.........does any of this make any sense to you? Is something inhibiting the ignition?  Is the ignition tied too the fan fuel pump running issue or is it totally separate? It seems in all my reading and researching i had seen bad ignition switches causing problems like this  or am i just grasping at straws?....Any advice/help would be more than appreciated ...............88 Turbo coupe                                                                                           

It's most likely not starting, when the fuel pump and cooling fan runs constantly, due to lack of fuel injector pulse from the EEC. This ignition system does not need the EEC as the ignition is fired from the PIP/TFI module (base timing) and the EEC just adjusts that timing.

Fuel pump and cooling fan running constantly while engine is off is a good indication of a failed EEC.

So, Arnold to take it a step further and to kind of state the obvious: You might need a need a new EEC-IV computer module. I’m not sure how difficult those are to locate as I have had no need for a replacement (they are pretty low on the items that you’ll replace, unless somehow it gets damaged). I was about the comment that probably any EEC-IV one would do, as long as it was from the Turbo Coupe date range of 1983-88, but then I realized there were several models that used it and I have no idea how specialized it was.

I say “might” because of course the first step in many diagnoses is to replace the suspect part with a known good part. Obviously if it fixes it, then there you go and “Bob’s your uncle” (I love that expression!). If not, then it’s time to move on to the next step, whatever that might be.

[quote pid='256426' dateline='1588794785']
[quote pid='256423' dateline='1588764536']
[quote pid='255469' dateline='1568808698']
The only IRCM failures I have heard of are a failure of one of the relays inside, but in general failures are rare.

98% of the old EEC IV PCM failures I have seen or heard of are due to aging electrolytic capacitors. Failed caps are generally obvious..... they expel a waxy gooey electrolyte out the bottom. Failed caps can be replaced relatively easily if you have decent soldering skills. I have personally never seen or even heard of failures of any of the ICs or MOSFET switching transistors. There are PCM repair companies out there (google is your friend) that repair the MUCH more complex OBDII PCMs, and may also repair our older PCMs.

You are right about both fans briefly running during the KOEO PCM self test, and the main fan running continuously during the KOER self test.

I have a vague recollection that the main fan control wire from the PCM to the IRCM is brown but dont hold me to that. When I will get some time I will try to remember to have a look at my EVTM (i.e., circuit diagrams) and verify the color.

Hi Jeff K,,,,,,,Arnold Booth  AGAIN,,,,,,,lol.....Jeff my original problems have come back,,,,,,if you remember i was having a problem with my fuel pump and primary cooling fan running with the key on only.......and i had a general poor running issue which has been fixed,,,,,was just plain bad /dirty fuel.........  dang ethanol gas.....not sure if you keep any correspondence but our initial e-mails were back last Sept...... i have been driving the car since Sept,,,,,,running just fine with no issues......well 2 weeks ago i drove the car,,,,,,ran like a sewing machine,,,,,came home shut it down......didnt drive/run the car for 4 or 5 days......went to drive it and turn the key on,,,,,,,,the cooling fan and fuel pump started running continuously,,,,,tried to start and engine turned over fine but would not start,,,,,,like the ignition had been inhibited/blocked or something,,,,,,i disconnected the IRCM and turned the key on and no fan or fuel pump operated....correct me if i am wrong but,,,,,#1 the cooling fan should not be running.....#2 think the fuel pump is timed in that it just runs momentarily to charge the fuel rail and shuts off until the engine is started and running......so......i am ready to put a stick of dynamite inside and blow the car up....lol...J/K...but my frustration level is up a bit just because of the lack of knowledge and education on all the electroinc systems and how they intermingle......i do not understand how it could be running so good,,,,,,i drive in and shut it off,,,,,sits for a few days and then wont even start,,,,,,,,the no start issue has never happened.......... it has always ran even though it was crappie until i got the fuel issue solved.........does any of this make any sense to you? Is something inhibiting the ignition?  Is the ignition tied too the fan fuel pump running issue or is it totally separate? It seems in all my reading and researching i had seen bad ignition switches causing problems like this  or am i just grasping at straws?....Any advice/help would be more than appreciated ...............88 Turbo coupe                                                                                           

It's most likely not starting, when the fuel pump and cooling fan runs constantly, due to lack of fuel injector pulse from the EEC. This ignition system does not need the EEC as the ignition is fired from the PIP/TFI module (base timing) and the EEC just adjusts that timing.

Fuel pump and cooling fan running constantly while engine is off is a good indication of a failed EEC.
[/quote]

So, Arnold to take it a step further and to kind of state the obvious: You might need a need a new EEC-IV computer module. I’m not sure how difficult those are to locate as I have had no need for a replacement (they are pretty low on the items that you’ll replace, unless somehow it gets damaged). I was about the comment that probably any EEC-IV one would do, as long as it was from the Turbo Coupe date range of 1983-88, but then I realized there were several models that used it and I have no idea how specialized it was.

I say “might” because of course the first step in many diagnoses is to replace the suspect part with a known good part. Obviously if it fixes it, then there you go and “Bob’s your uncle” (I love that expression!). If not, then it’s time to move on to the next step, whatever that might be.
[/quote]

[/quote]

anasazi4st Thanx again to all who are tryin to help.....i told Jeff K yesterday i sent my PCM to a guy down in florida who affter talkin with and telling him the symptons He said it sounded like a bad processor inside to him ,,,,,,dunno,,,no tellin what thats gonna cost........waiting on his diagnosis to see if mine is worth repairing or IF its even bad,,,,,as we all know i need to have a known GOOD box to proceed. And speaking of PCM,s..i did find brand new in the original Ford box 87 88 PCM.....P/N E8DZ-12B577-B but its for a 87 88 Taurus.....i dont remember the suffix lettering on my box i sent to Florida,,,,i know the base number is the same,,,,i know the connector pins look all the same,,,,i do not know whats inside the box but,,,i dont care i paid $15.00 for it and who knows it just might work. But i gotta be honest,,,,,I am a Ford man,,,,,,always have been but i now understand why you dont see these cars on the road anymore......what a pain in the ass to repair anything,,,,,all the dealer folk who knew these cars are gone,,,dead or retired....no parts anymore,,,,,,discontinued......no technical info to research to educate ur self,,,if you do find info then you dont have the specialized test equipment to do the job.........here on this website is the ONLY place to get any help or knowledge and it is sure appreciated.... just an example of a SIMPLE issue to repair is i also have the Amber ABS lite,,,,,when you crank it up the ABS box does its self test and the lite goes out as it should,,,,,,as soon as you role..lite comes on ...... i feel sure its a wheel sensor/cable,,simple fix .....well guess what?.....cant get them anymore and no aftermarket available,,,,,so ya take the bulb out or live with the lite? yea thats real professional.......and thats just one example.,,lets add the Teves system,,,low fuel sending unit,,,,,parts and repairs for them.....,Aviation mechanic here for 47 years and these T-birds were just like the Lockheed L1011......to technical for the times,,,,,way ahead of its time,Guess i am getting to old and all this dam searching and jury rigging to make somethin work is gettin old,,,,as i told Jeff K i am ready to get a stick of dynamite and blow it up,,,,,it not worth anything much to me anymore,,,what should be a enjoyable part of my life isnt,,,,,,,the only value it has is scrap metal.....no parts to repair and ya have to be a Rhodes scholar to troubleshoot and repair... will see what the gentleman in Florida finds,,,hopefully it wont be to bad.........so sad to see these iconic Fords goin away......it pains me to say but its no wonder why the Chevys are so popular...parts available and info to boot.....and thats why you see so many at car shows.........all GM/Chevys,,,,,,,,maybe 1 or 2 Fords,...and many of the Fords have adam Chevy engine in them,,,,,,wonder why right? anyone wanna buy a Turbo Coupe for parts or a paperweight?..I am just about there,,,,,,,this isnt fun anymore for me.

anasazi4st Thanx again to all who are tryin to help.....i told Jeff K yesterday i sent my PCM to a guy down in florida who affter talkin with and telling him the symptons He said it sounded  like a bad processor inside to him ,,,,,,dunno,,,no tellin what thats gonna cost........waiting on his diagnosis to see if mine is worth repairing or IF its even bad,,,,,as we all know i need to have a known GOOD box to proceed. And speaking of PCM,s..i did find brand new in the original Ford box 87 88 PCM.....P/N E8DZ-12B577-B but its for a 87 88 Taurus.....i dont remember the suffix lettering on my box i sent to Florida,,,,i know the base number is the same,,,,i know the connector pins look all the same,,,,i do not know whats inside the box but,,,i dont care    i paid $15.00 for it and who knows it just might work. But i gotta be honest,,,,,I am a Ford man,,,,,,always have been but i now understand why you dont see these cars on the road anymore......what a pain in the ass to repair anything,,,,,all the dealer folk who knew these cars are gone,,,dead or retired....no parts anymore,,,,,,discontinued......no technical info to research to educate ur self,,,if you do find info then you dont have the specialized test equipment to do the job.........here on this website is the ONLY place to get any help or knowledge and it is sure appreciated.... just an example of a SIMPLE issue to repair is  i also have the Amber ABS lite,,,,,when you crank it up the ABS box does its self test and the lite goes out as it should,,,,,,as soon as you role..lite comes on ...... i feel sure its a wheel sensor/cable,,simple fix .....well guess what?.....cant get them anymore and no aftermarket available,,,,,so ya take the bulb out or live with the lite? yea thats real professional.......and thats just one example.,,lets add the Teves system,,,low fuel sending unit,,,,,parts and repairs for them.....,Aviation mechanic here for 47 years and these T-birds were just like the Lockheed L1011......to technical for the times,,,,,way ahead of its time,Guess i am getting to  old and all this dam searching and jury rigging to make somethin work is gettin old,,,,as i told Jeff K i am ready to get a stick of dynamite and blow it up,,,,,it not worth anything much to me anymore,,,what should be a enjoyable part of my life isnt,,,,,,,the only value it has is scrap metal.....no parts to repair and ya have to be a Rhodes scholar to troubleshoot and repair... will see what the gentleman in Florida finds,,,hopefully it wont be to bad.........so sad to see these iconic Fords goin away......it pains me to say but its no wonder  why the Chevys are so popular...parts available and info to boot.....and thats why you see so many at  car shows.........all GM/Chevys,,,,,,,,maybe 1 or 2 Fords,...and many of the Fords have adam Chevy engine in them,,,,,,wonder why right?    anyone wanna buy a Turbo Coupe for parts or a paperweight?..I am just about there,,,,,,,this isnt fun anymore for me.

Wow. Maybe you should take a deep breath.

First off, I have not seen a problem with my car that the Shop Manuals wouldn’t fix, or advice from this site...or common sense.

I recently had a nightmare where I installed 2 TEVES II units, neither worked as it should (ABS light on—first one the Light would not go off, second one the accumulator pump would not stop running). I finally was able to nail down the problem and got it fixed. But yeah, that wasn’t much fun, and it took months working on it just on the weekends.

Years ago I purchased an EEC-IV Breakout Box at a used tool store for $50, it has been invaluable. In the course of trying to fix the ABS issues I was able to find two obsolete Ford tools on eBay, one for under $20 and one for $50, which helped.

Let’s be honest, here. When it comes to keeping an older car on the road, you either have what all that requires, or you don’t. Arnold, I’m not saying that this applies to you, but it does take a lot of patience and sometimes some disposable income to keep it running. Yes, it can be enormously frustrating. There is what I call the “Ol’ Yeller moment”—recall at the end of that great Disney movie, the dog in the title gets rabies. In those days, it was either too impractical (nearest vet was too far away) or too expensive to treat the animal for a cure. So, sadly, the boy had to shoot his beloved pet.

I have often wondered when that moment will happen with my Turbo Coupe. Will I decide to pull the plug, or will an idiot who runs a stop sign do that for me? In short, when will I choose (or be forced to) give up?

This isn’t the stuff for everyone. Arnold, I feel your pain. I can’t say much, except that you’re correct, if it’s not fun any more then why do it? Only you can make that decision. Just remember that we are here if you need help or advice.

FYI, for some unknown reason, the TC PCMs all say "3.0 L Taurus / Sable" on them. There are a few TC LA3 PCMs listed on Ebay right now.

FYI, for some unknown reason, the TC PCMs all say "3.0 L Taurus / Sable" on them.  There are a few TC LA3 PCMs listed on Ebay right now.

 
Thanx Jeff...........still waiting on the guy in Florida to give me info on my PCM so i can decide which direction to go....gotta have a good known box to proceed on.......as you known of course.....

Just out of curiousity do both run always or just one?
For my Coupe I had the upper radiator hose that rested on my connector and it would not run even when told to. I took a zip tie and drilled a small hole in my support and ziptied the hose so it rested higher. The one thing I also noticed is one of the fans run constantly if you have the AC on.

Primary fan (pass side fan) should whenever the AC compressor is running, and runs for a few seconds after the AC comp shuts off independent of engine coolant temp. This fan also runs when coolant temp exceeds somewhere around 215 deg F. If coolant temp continues to increase to around 225 F with primary fan running, secondary fan (driver side fan) will also run. Secondary fan will also run if high side AC pressure exceeds 310 psi.

Under normal warm / hot weather conditions with in car temp stabilized AC comp will cycle on / off as commanded by the the CCPS (cycling clutch pressure switch) sticking vertically up out of the AC accumulator / dryer. Primary fan will cycle on / off with the AC comp cycling on/off.