North American Turbocoupe Organization



'88 Tripminder problem, solved with install article inside
Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I've been plucking away at a tripminder install on my '88. I hooked pin 6 up to pin 34 on the EEC for fuel input. I hooked up pin 8 to pin 3 on the EEC for VSS and now I'm stuck. As far as the stock clock harness goes, I have no idea which wires to hook up to my tripminder. Can someone with an EVTM help me out and send me the info on which wire is which? I've already blown a few fuses trying to get this to work.

Thanks!
-Ryan

Edit: The problem has been solved. The '88 has different colored wiring than what the articles I have found mention. If you have an '88, I made a write up with a diagram below on the full install. Enjoy!
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#2
BTW I read the FAQ posts and they are of no help. The stock harness plug shown looks nothing like my own stock harness. The plug shown has two rows of 4 pins. Mine only has one row of 4 pins and the colors are completely different, as are the wiring orders.
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
See if there is anything useful in this mess I posted awhile back

http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...584#000000
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
There are 6 connections to the tripminder. You already have the hardest 2 hooked up. It also needs 12 V hot in run (get that from the clock harness), connection for the dimmer (get from clock harness) and 2 grounds in the tripminder (wire together and use the ground in the clock harness).
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Pete, I read that post and didn't really find any solid info. Thanks for the info Jeff, I ended up using my DMM to figure it out. After blowing 5 fuses, I got some solid info for you guys, here goes:

To connect a tripminder computer to an '88 TC, you will need the following:

-Tripminder computer out of a Crown Vic or similar, specific models listed on www.CoolCats.net
-Spool(s) of 14 gauge wire (plural if you want to use different colors, this is prefered)
-Solder & iron, at least a 90W gun
-Wire strippers/snippers
-Sharp razor blades
-Philips screwdriver
-10mm 1/4" drive wratchet or wratcheting box end (preffered, makes things easier)
-7mm 1/4" drive socket or set of small Torx bits
-Super glue

Disconnect the battery.

Now that we've gathered all of this junk together, we can start! Remove the passenger side kick panel. Pull the extra wiring out of the way to expose the EEC and use the 10mm of your choice to remove the 60 pin connector from your EEC. Pop the black protective "cap" off of the connector via the 4 tabs.

You need to locate pin 3 (dark green/white) and pin 34 (light blue/purple). Pin 3 is easy because it is numbered. Pin 34 can be difficult, but remember it is in the middle, between pin 14 and 54. Pin 54 is a solid red wire, so just look for the light blue/purple wire behind pin 54 (red wire) and you've got it.

Be sure to use multiple colors of wires and remember which is which. WRITE IT DOWN.
Now you will need to splice into these wires. The way I did it was cut a piece of insulation off, wrap the end of one of my 14ga wires around it and solder it. Then I taped them up. The hard part is done! Put the black cap back on and screw the connector back into the EEC.

Now drop these wires for a second and lets get to the clock. Take the dash trim off by removing the screws that are hidden up under the lip. You will need to remove the two panels on the bottom where the light and fuel switch is to get to some hidden screws for the dash trim. After this is removed, remove the clock. It is a 7mm 6 point socket or a small Torx bit. The 7mm socket is easier for me, but not everyone has one. I guess not everyone has Torx bits either? lol

The clock has a 4 pin connector on it consisting of a brown wire, dark green/light green wire, white/purple wire, and a black/light green wire. Set this aside, don't lop the connector off just yet. Now is the time to run the wires. Take the two spools of wire you connected to your EEC and run them up to the clock from behind the glove box and dash. Run them to where the clock harness is and you can then cut the wires, unless you want a whole spool behind your dash.

From here on out, its just a matter of connecting the wires, which I have drawn a very simple diagram for. The wire colors for your trip computer may not match, but its the pin pattern that counts. The wiring in your dash harness should be exactly what is on the diagram if you have an '88 though.

http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...uter88.JPG

After you get it all wired up, all thats left is swapping the brackets from your old clock to the new tripminder. I popped mine off and super glued them on. Then toss your panels back together and enjoy the mileage!
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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