88 TC VAM has to be unhooked to idle; lotsa info

After installing a header and turbo, my car won't idle(hot or cold) with the VAM hooked up. Although, sometimes it will idle like normal but when you snap the throttle the RPM's bounce before it dies (sometimes not). I have to crack the throttle to keep it running. I hooked up a Snap-On scanner and I got boost control code, HO2G detects always lean condition, HO2G detects always rich condition, and only one of the three scans gave a no voltage change on throttle snap. I put a new TPS on it a few months ago and set it to .95v but I rechecked it again. Somehow it dropped to .845v so I reset it back to .95v. At WOT it reads 4.99v and there is no deadspots all the way through. Checked with analog meter btw.
Restarted the car with VAM hooked back up still won't idle.

I did a complete electrical test of the VAM voltages.

VAF reading of 5.01v for reference
VAF reading at closed is .252v and full open is 5.01v with no deadspots throughout.
VAT reading of 2615 ohms at 63 degrees.

I don't know what else to check. The IAC is the only thing I can think of but it ran fine before I worked on it. I should probably mention all the new stuff I've put on it just to let you know.

New:
fuel tank
walbro 255 pump
parts store FPR
Motorcraft plugs and wires
TFI
tapped a hole in intercooler for BOV(the only thing that changed after header/turbo install)

The A/F ratios are everywhere and not what they should be. 10:1-12:1 at part throttle. 13:1-14.5:1 when you lift. Never closes the injectors when you lift off the throttle at highway speed. Before it would go to full lean. Now it just hangs around 15:1 or so when you lift. I don't get into the boost because it starts to lean out. I'm assuming is that's because the VAM is unhooked. Don't know what it reads with the VAM hooked up, as I don't recall the readings.

No vac or boost leaks.

Can a VAM be "bad" even though everything checks out? As soon as you hook it up it dies within a few seconds.

Sorry for the wall of text. Worked 12 hours today and just wanted to get as much info to you as possible before I fell asleep. Thanks. PEACE

Have you checked for an air leak like the VAM hose and IC hoses.
Easy for these to not be properly located and clamped.

No boost leaks. IC and VAM hoses I checked first.

What kind of BOV is it? Certain types can open at idle and create a big leak.

Aluminum eBay special. For $60 it better not be leaking. I suppose I could unhook the BOV and plug the holes after work and see if that changes anything.

It's odd that it idles just dandy without the VAM. Is .252v normal with the VAM door in closed position? Seems low to me but idk.

Vaf engine off: 0.15-0.50 V
Vaf engine idle : 1.50-2.70 V

Ohms for Vat : 2700 ohms @ 65 Degrees F

This info is from the 1988 ford engine/emissions-diagnosis shop manual.

If you could give me any codes, I could give you the pinpoint test.

hopes this helps.

Well I found the problem. After work in the parking lot I covered the BOV with my hand and plugged the VAM back in while it was running and it stayed running.

Now I'm confused because if the BOV opens with vac applied and closes under boost, wouldn't it essentially be open all the time at idle? It came with 3 different springs. I'm thinkin I should swap springs and see what happens. Thanks for your insight guys.

Come to find out it's designed that way because it's a recirculating bypass valve. I thought you could use it as either or. I have to plumb the other end to the intake somehow. Anyone know where I can get an intake pipe with a 1" fitting on it?

Something like this?
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_i...ad0490159d

I'd prefer to have an aluminum intake with a one inch bung. Not sure how I'd set that one up that you linked to.