North American Turbocoupe Organization



88 tc noisy front end
mike65 Offline
Member
#1
hello have an 88 tc with just an exhaust upgrade at time but have aclunking nise in right front end all is new except tie rods and bearings i hear when making sharp slow turns or over certain bumps some people say tie rods are wearing??Also does any run thier car with no muffler just the cat?Will be sending check out for membership want to learn and be a part of these "living" legends! this is the 3rd tc ive had nothing compares for the $$
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Welcome to the board. I would certainly check the tie rods for wear.

------------------
NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
"The nice thing about each new day is nobody ever used it before" Barnaby Jones
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm
Pete Dunham


Reply

KMcGrathNJ Offline
Senior Member
#3
I had a clunking sound when I made a left turn, Started at the end of a 3000 mile road trip. I quite honestly don't know what the part was called, but there was some sort of brace under the car near the left front axle that had broken. It was about a $90.00 fix. Hope this helps.
Kevin


88 TC T5;White/Red; All options exept Leather; Front Mounted K&N cone filter; 140 Speedo; Superchip; Gillis Boost Valve; Custom vac/boost-volt-temp gauge cluster in console Ground Effects; Spoiler; Blaupunkt H/U; Boston Accoustic 3 1/2" in dash; Polk 6" in doors; Infinity 5 1/4 component in rear deck;
Rockford 10" sub; (2) Alpine amps


Near Future -Paint
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Check the sway bar bushings (where it attaches to the frame), and the sway bar end links. THe bushings especially like to rot out.... when I got my TC, the pass side bushing was half missing, and it made some serious clunging noises.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

mike65 Offline
Member
#5
thanks to all in reference to the noisy front end on my 88 tc.As i said everything in front end is new except tierod ends and wheel bearings. I have thought possibly it could be sway bar bushings or end links but they too have all been replaced;I also know that parts can go bad even if thier new but i really don,t know how to check these parts for wear.And i know if i go to midas or something they,ll tell me that everything needs to be replaced.I can usally fix these type of repairs but again have a hard time diagnosing them.Again all your input is much appreciaetd.Also when is the carlisle meet for 2003 I would really like to get there and is there any other tc shows around the upstate ny area?
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
Tie rod ends (both inner and outer) are easy to check: Jack up front end so tires are off the ground. Be sure vthe steering wheel is locked in one position. Have a helper grab a wheel and strongly jerk it side to side while you look at the tie ros and outer tie rod ends from under the car. Watch for any movement. If the tie rod doesnt move, but the wheel moves, the outer tie rod end is bad... you will see the joint moving. If the whole tie rod moves, and the outer end is tight, the inner tie rod end is bad. Repaeat on the other wheel. If the inners are bad, they can be replaced, but it might just be easier to get a whole reman rack.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

mike65 Offline
Member
#7
Jeff thanks for the info this noise is driving me crazy!!I know I have to get a new rack anyways that too has started leaking pretty good now also!!(only my luck)But i will check in the manner you suggesred.But if I put a new rack in should i grt one with ends on it? and is thier any particular kind of rack i should get?Now for the big question what if I replace the rack and I still have the noise?I also plan on putting the gillis boost valve in after this problem is solved if you have one is there a noticeable difference with it installed I mean is it worth yhe fifty bucks? and what other inexpensive perf. mods can be made I mow have a full boar muffler with 2 1/2 pipepto the end sounds nice but would like to get a more throaty sound was actually thinking of just running the cat with no muffler or just a glass pack[
Quote:Originally posted by Jeff K:
Tie rod ends (both inner and outer) are easy to check: Jack up front end so tires are off the ground. Be sure vthe steering wheel is locked in one position. Have a helper grab a wheel and strongly jerk it side to side while you look at the tie ros and outer tie rod ends from under the car. Watch for any movement. If the tie rod doesnt move, but the wheel moves, the outer tie rod end is bad... you will see the joint moving. If the whole tie rod moves, and the outer end is tight, the inner tie rod end is bad. Repaeat on the other wheel. If the inners are bad, they can be replaced, but it might just be easier to get a whole reman rack.

Reply

Ford _Nation Offline
Member
#8
Gillis Valve: Best 50$ bucks you'll spend on H.P. bro. Welcome to the board good luck with the RACK [Image: frown.gif]

------------------
88-TC
Gillisvalve
3" full exhaust
Custom K-N ram air
Ported Head
Kirban FPR
Walbro 255
BPV
Lakewood Drag struts&shocks
B&M short throw

85TC- Runnin 11.30's V8 style
88-TC
Gillisvalve
3" full exhaust
Custom K-N ram air
Ported Head
Kirban FPR
Walbro 255
BPV
Lakewood Drag struts&shocks
B&M short throw

85TC- Runnin 11.30's V8 style
Reply

Grant Offline
Member
#9
Have any of you guys gone manual for the steering?? I'm thinking of leaving the pump off and plugging the rack when I put the engine back in. Never driven a manual steering car w/ wide tires out front...skinnies are pretty easy to turn though [Image: smile.gif]

------------------
83 TC : full 3" exhaust, 17" 93 cobra wheels, many mods awaiting install once the engine's back in Smile
83 TC : full 3" exhaust, 17" 93 cobra wheels, many mods awaiting install once the engine's back in Smile
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB