North American Turbocoupe Organization



88 tc no power barely idles codes 35,34,41,76
Renegade2012 Offline
Junior Member
#1
Alright so my dad bought this 1988 thunderbird turbo coupe brand new and has had it ever since. It sat in storage most of its life as far as i have been old enough to remember only to be brought out ever few summers it has like 75,000 km on it. Anyways the first time i drove it i stepped on it and it seems to build a bunch of boost and just sputter and had no power.

The timing belt broke on it shortly after that. I replaced the timing belt and it worked the same. My dad took it to a friend who is a mechanic shortly after this and he replaced a cracked exhaust manifold and tryed to determine the problem im not 100% sure what all he did but after sitting there for a long time he determined it was the mass air flow sensor. We brought it back home and bought a new maf sensor.

It doesn't build alot of boost and sputter like before but it has no power at all and idles very high sometimes then drops down and quits it is also hard to start sometimes.

I did the koer and got codes 25, 34, 41, 76 i looked them up and the only two that meant anything to me was system too lean and something about the egr. Can anyone point me in the right direction on where to start. I'm thinking plugged cat? bad fuel pump? I'm going to pick up a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow to check the fuel pump then go from there.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for your help. My dad says this thing is fast but im not impressed yet from what i've seen so far my sir civic will walk all over this thing :giggle:
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Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#2
the Civic SI® has a very slight horsepower edge over a well running TC in stock form, but the TC kills the Civic in torque. But the TC also weighs quite a bit more... and it's 25 years old.
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
25 is a knock sensor code which means you didn't tap the intake manifold with a solid object (screw driver handle, not sledge hammer)at the right time

34- is an EGR code that is always set if the car had the emissions recall done. Look for a black and bright green round plastic directional valve in the vacuum hose going to the EGR diaphram valve on the back of the upper intake. Sometimes the EGR valve/ passages get carboned up and the valve can't close completely.
Take the EGR valve off and clean it and the passages in the valve and upper intake.

76 - means you did not open the throttle far enough to make the Vane Airflow meter door open sufficiently, at the right time

41 - see the response by Jeff K in this post for more info.
http://natomessageboard.com/ubbthreads.p...Post160634
Pete Dunham


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Stinger Offline
Senior Member
#4
First thing you should do is a general tuneup, namely the ignition components since it sounds like they are very old. You need to replace the cap, rotor, plug wires, and spark plugs. Do not buy any "fancy" spark plugs, just standard copper stock replacement plugs. Don't get the cheapest wires you can find either. Motorcraft are preferred. Be sure to adjust the plug gap to .030" before installing, otherwise they will cause nothing but problems.

After doing this, if problems persist, you'll need to check the basics like fuel pressure, compression, timing, etc. and make sure they are all within spec. Once that is done, you can move onto diagnosing any existing problems.
www.Stinger-Performance.com

85 TC
85 SVO
86 SVO
87 Merkur
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Renegade2012 Offline
Junior Member
#5
I forgot to menchain that it already has new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. My dad has owned the car since new and says he didnt take it in for any recalls and im assuming that the mechanic who looked at it before this set the timing but i'll have to double check to make sure.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
I would double and triple check the cam timing first. Sometimes they can be off a tooth, but run smooth and show boost but no real power
Pete Dunham


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