North American Turbocoupe Organization



88 TC IHI wastegate....
Kuch Offline
Member
#1
So my 88 TC had issues with maintaining a regulated boost level, I was hoping to keep it at a safe 18psi with the IHI still on it. With the factory BCS still hooked up, it would climb right up there, past my comfort zone with the IHI, so I picked up a Gillis and installed it, started with the 6 turns out, boost went way up to 20psi, turned it basically all the way out and still goes up to 20psi. I also took apart the Gillis to verify the ball is free, which it is. This is all checked with an Autometer 30psi boost gauge. I'm sure my actuator is leaking or the flapper is stuck closed. My question is, is there a readily available actuator available for the IHI? Or am I stuck with finding a good used one? I hooked the boost hose direct from the turbo outlet using a 1/4" hose barb to the actuator with nothing in between, but haven't driven it yet to check that. I do have an extra t3/t4 turbo with actuator on it, are these kinda universal or model specific?Thanks
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof, T3/T4 50 trim, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5", MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Do you have a 15 or so psi air pressure source available for testing, like an air compressor you can regulate down to 10 to 15 psi? If so, apply 10 or so psi directly to the WGA. Listen for leaks indicating a blown diaphragm. Look at the WGA actuator rod. It should just start to move with 10 psi applied. If rod does not move, grab it with a vise grip and pull hard to see if you can get the WG to move. FYI NEVER exceed 12 to 15 psi applied to the WGA or you risk blowing out the diaphragm.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Kuch Offline
Member
#3
I figured out the issue with my overboost on the IHI. I started by putting 15psi on the actuator and it did not move, well it looked like it was trying to move and had no air leaking so must be the flapper. Crawled underneath the tried to get the C clip off the arm to check it. NO WAY, it was stuck on there way more than any C clip I've taken off before, strange. Took the 3 mount bolts off the actuator mount to check it out and found the actuator arm basically welded itself to the flapper arm. Meaning, the flapper would move easily, but where the arm goes in the flapper was stuck tight. It wasn't rusted, but looked like it somehow welded itself together. Had to put vise grips on the flapper arm and slowly work the actuator arm around till it broke free. Finally got it to where it moves free, hooked the Gillis back up and holds at 18psi. I've never seen that on an actuator arm before. Just wanted to pass along the fix.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof, T3/T4 50 trim, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5", MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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