North American Turbocoupe Organization

88 TC 3G upgrade........
Kuch Offline
Senior Member
This is one of my to-do list items this year on the 88 and I started today. The bracket is ground down and the new 3G fits great so I started on the wiring bundles. Based on the tech articles on here it says; " The original output wire from the original alternator goes into this bundle.   Use a knife, razor blade, etc. to cut the tape off the bundle. Inside you will find a thick yellow wire with a huge splice into several fuse links at each end.  The yellow wire is the shunt wire for the amp gauge.  Follow the original alternator power output wire to the splice at one end of the yellow wire.  Cut the original power wire a few inches from the huge splice, and connect it to one of the two remaining 10 gauge wires from the alternator.  Be sure to fully solder and tape this connection.  Use a knife or razor blade to remove about ¾” length of insulation from the thick yellow wire near the same end that the alternator power wire is spliced in to.  Strip some insulation from the last 10 gauge wire coming from the alternator, wind it around the bare section of the yellow wire, solder completely, and tape the connection up". My question is:
1, Can I leave the blk/or wire as is hooked to the alt ouptut instead of cutting it to splice in a 10g wire. Seems redundant to cut it if it's already 10g
2, Can I use a 4g with a 175a fuse from the output going to the battery pos terminal instead of a 10g wire from the alt output to the solenoid connection?
3, Where does the last 10g wire go to on the yellow shunt wire? Before or after the fusible links, the green or red spots in the pic?

Attached Files Image(s)
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low

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