North American Turbocoupe Organization



'88 Boost Control Hose Hook-Up
Wittsend Offline
Junior Member
#1
Does it matter as to the inlet/outlet side of the factory boost controller? When I look down the connectors tubes they appears internally different one from the other.

I'm only getting 10 pounds of boost with the Premium Fuel switch activated. I've looked over the obvious (loose connectors/cracked hoses etc.)and not found anything.

The light on the Premium switch comes on. I measured 11 volts between the Black/pink and Red wires (Key On/Engine Off). The boost controller itself measures right about 70 ohms at the connectors.

I've looked over all the hose connector illustrations I can find on the internet. While I'm able to confirm the routing in general, the specifics at the boost controller can not be determined. Any help is appreciated even if I'm looking in the wrong area.

Tom
'88, 5 Speed, LA-3, Basically stock (EGR removed)
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#2
I dont think it matters which end is I/O if the rest is connected properly. Since this is an 88, which gear and what rpm range did you test within?
1987tc
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Yes it makes a difference where the hoses go on the stock control. See the article on installing a Gillis Valve in the Technical Articles for a description of what goes where on the stock BCS.
http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/GillisVal...sValve.htm

Be careful with it as the housing tens to get brittle with age.

Unless yiu need or want to keep it bone stock, it would probably be good to replace it with an aftermarket BCS, even if you are not looking to increase boost. There are still advantages for doing it.

If you have an automatic trans, 87-88, 10 psi is all it's going to give you.
Pete Dunham


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Wittsend Offline
Junior Member
#4
It was pretty much from idle to around 5,000 RPM's in 1st through 3rd gear, 4th gear to about 3,000 RPM. In third and 4th gear going up a hill I moved the switch from regular to premium without any change on the boost gauge or noticeable in the "seat of the pants" test.

Tomorrow I'm going to try bypassing the wastegate actuator (ever so momentarily) and see if the boost will go over 10 pounds just to confirm the problem isn't elsewhere.
'88, 5 Speed, LA-3, Basically stock (EGR removed)
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Wittsend Offline
Junior Member
#5
Sorry, should have stated it is a 5 speed (LA-3).

OK, I have an issue. I read the link and found the following, "Follow the hose from the top port of the BCS to the 2 port fitting on the compressor outlet."

My BCS has been unbolted with no reference to which port is the "top." So, if someone can confirm the stock position of the electrical connector and identify the "top" port from that position I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks, Tom
'88, 5 Speed, LA-3, Basically stock (EGR removed)
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Jeff K Online
Administrator
#6
The BCS is a plastic piece of junk with a OEM cost of maybe $1 to Ford. They often fail, often leak, etc. As Pete said, the ports on the BCS are not equivalent and cant be switched, but I dont remember which is which as mine has been gone for 12+ years.

You can test the circuit to the BCS by hooking up a low current test light, like a #194 bulb, with long leads to the BCS connector. Run the leads to the passenger compartment so you can see the test light. Light should turn on over 4500 RPM at WOT.

Disconnecting the WGA hose and CAREFULLY going for a drive to see if boost goes over 10 psi is a good idea. Jusr be sure youdont overboost.

I say just get rid of the BCS and get a Gillis valve to control boost. Boost will build more quickly, and youcan set max boost to any value you want.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
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67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
Tom,
the stock BCS mounts on the inner passenger fender. It mounts such that the two hose ports are vertical and closest to the fire wall and the electrical connection is closest to the radiator.

It can save time and exchanges if you would put some basic info in your signature. Like the year of your cay, type of transmission and any major modification. Then others can see that info and don't need to ask. Answer's to many type of questions depend on the year of TC and/or transmission type. Go to the top of the page and click on "MY STUFF" then choose "Edit Profile"
Scroll down the page about 2/3s until you see a fill in text box labeled "signature", Fill it in and go to the bottom of the page and click on the "submit" button and your done.
Pete Dunham


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Wittsend Offline
Junior Member
#8
Ok, I had the hoses at the BCS reversed. I correctly oriented them, did a test drive and still got 10 pounds boost. I then used a set of vise grips tightly pinching two washers to block off the boost actuator. Again, I still got 10 pounds boost. Both test were done under a hard acceleration to at least 5,000 RPM. For the record the actuator rod takes a fair amount of effort to get it to move and snaps back tightly.

I'm hearing a faint whoosh of air on the passenger side when the boost comes up. Would the wastegate opening be audible? Or is this more indicative of a leak in the intake side? I'm assuming the hoses at the intercooler are most suspect? They look/feel OK, but I have yet to remove them for complete inspection.

Lastly I tested with the premium switch in both positions. so, even if the gauge is reading wrong I should have seem a rise/drop and felt something in the seat of my pants (which I don't).

Tom
'88, 5 Speed, LA-3, Basically stock (EGR removed)
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
"For the record the actuator rod takes a fair amount of effort to get it to move and snaps back tightly."

Tom, that is the way it is suppose to work.

I'd be more concerned with a relatively louder whoosh of air as boost builds.

If you had the hose to the WGA pinched off you should see more than 10 psi. You could remove the WGA rod from the pivot arm, wire the WG closed and "carefully" see if boost increases. If it does, either the WGA is bad or something is holding the WG open. A couple things. 1. the rod is held in place
at the pivot arm by a small E clip, on the top side of the rod/arm. Be careful when you remove it as it will fly to the most remote, hidden part of the work area. When you get the rod out, see how easily the pivot arm moves. It should move easily through at least a 45* arc. Try to determine if the WG can close completely. If something internal is holding it off it's seat, that would reduce or limit the boost
Pete Dunham


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Wittsend Offline
Junior Member
#10
I capped the intercooler, pressurized it to 15 pounds and dunked it in water. There was the faintest stream of bubbles I ever saw. Possibly just porosity in the end castings. The I/C doesn't hold much volume and it only lost 1 pound in 45 minutes. It took it up to 20 pounds and there was some minor leakage at the hoses. I'd attribute that to the clamps. And even there it took about a minute to lose 1 pound of un-replenished pressure.

Frankly I can't see either causing the loss of 5 pounds boost in mere seconds. Especially with 15 pounds as the target. So, at this point I'm kind of ruling out the I/C or the hoses. There is what appears to be a one way valve on the large hose between the I/C and the "Tee." I would like to confirm that I have that right.

I'm moving next to the wastegate. I'll report back what I find.
'88, 5 Speed, LA-3, Basically stock (EGR removed)
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