North American Turbocoupe Organization

86 TC Clutch Replacement
andrewjs18 Offline
86 TC Clutch Replacement
by Mr. T

Now clutch replacements have been covered in detail all over the place and the Ford shop manual does a very good job explaining the steps. The goal here is to try and provide the critical part info for some of the items that are getting hard to find or are not always remembered during replacement. Additionally, I tried to list some brief tips to make the job easier.

My situation was interesting. The clutch on my daily driver '86 was almost completely gone and pedal efforts were through the roof. Clutch had to be pressed ALL the way to the floor to even consider shifting. The car has 171,000 on it. I bought it at 150,000, and luckily the original owner had kept EVERY record. Research showed that the car had two complete clutch replacements including flywheel resurfacing in the last 60,000 miles! Obviously something was up as the car was totally bone stock so over-powering was not the issue.

Tear down revealed the reasons for the infantile mortality of the parts. The bearing retainer was scored and the throw-out bearing was obviously having a difficult time sliding. The bell crank on the side of the bell housing was very difficult to move and the inner bearings and grease were toast. The input bearing grease was hard as a rock, and the clutch fork tangs that hold the throw-out bearing were almost completely worn through!

Clutch slippage had become so bad that the flywheel had a perfect mirror finish. To top it off, the rear main and valve cover gasket were leaking oil into the bell housing. the fact that the car could even do 80 MPH still baffles me.

Basically the clutch was not engaging fully or able to disengage fully at certain times resulting in very fast clutch wear.

Below are the parts I used to perform the repair:

Clutch Parts

Part: Flywheel (All New)

Part #: 50-703

Cost: $49.98

Purchased: Advance Auto Parts

Supplier: Perfection Clutch

Notes: Made in China. (Same part is sold at both NAPA and Advance Auto). Only normal auto parts stores I could find that could get me a new flywheel.

Part: Clutch Kit (All New: Disc, Pressure Plate, T/Out Bearing, Input Bearing, Alignment Tool)

Part #: 07-038

Cost: $105.00 ($120.00 w/ shipping)

Purchased: Internet - Carolina Clutch

Supplier: Valeo

Notes: Well packaged OEM kit; also used for ’87-’88. Has higher torque capacity than original ’83-’86 clutch.

Part: Clutch Fork (All New)

Part #: E3ZZ-7515-A

Cost: $56.47 ($66.42 w/ shipping) (Ford List: $72.40, Ford Discounted: $54.30)

Purchased: Ford Motor Co. (Howard Parts Distribution Center in Oklahoma)

Supplier: Ford Motor Co. sourced supplier

Notes: OEM service part. Identical (including stamped part #) to the original out of my ’86.

Part: Clutch Fork Pivot Ball (All New)

Part #: D5FZ-7B602-A

Cost: Free (Ford List: $17.57, Ford Discounted: $13.18)

Purchased: Given to me.

Supplier: Tremec Transmissions?

Notes: Same as is currently used on the 2004 (and probably ’94-’03) T-5 in V6 Mustangs.

Part: Input Bearing Retainer - Steel (All New)

Part #: HMS527004

Cost: $39.95

Purchased: Hanlon Motorsports

Supplier: Tremec Transmissions

Notes: Cheapest price I could find. Way cheaper than Ford’s price. Thicker collar than original part.

Part: Input Bearing Retainer Seal (All New)

Part #: 12363

Cost: $4.90

Purchased: Hanlon Motorsports

Supplier: Tremec Transmissions

Notes: Good idea to install a new one if you are replacing the bearing retainer.

Part: Clutch Cable - 2” Dog-Bone (All New)

Part #: E6ZZ-7535-A

Cost: Approx. $15-16.

Purchased: Ford Motor Co.

Supplier: Ford Motor Co. sourced supplier

Notes: Cheap insurance to replace. Ford has slightly updated this part from its original design.

Part: Bell Crank (Good Used)

Part #: E3ZZ-7N628-A

Cost: Internet trade for fasteners

Purchased: Internet

Supplier: Ford Motor Co. sourced supplier

Notes: Impossible to find new. I did a nationwide search of dealerships and found zero. There may be a later application that will work but I am still researching. Possibly late model 2.3L N/A Mustangs.

Part: Clevis Clip – Clutch Cable (Good Used)

Part #: D5FZ-2861-A

Cost: Internet trade for fasteners

Purchased: Internet

Supplier: Ford Motor Co. sourced supplier

Notes: One of mine was ovaled out from years of use. Still available from Ford. Common part also used for parking brake cable applications.

Driveline Parts

Part: Driveshaft U-Joints (All New)

Part #: ???

Cost: $12.99/Part

Purchased: Pep Boys

Supplier: Brute Force

Notes: Non-Greaseable, Heavy Duty packed w/ Synthetic Grease

Seal parts

Part: Valve Cover Gasket - Rubber (All New)

Part #: F57Z-6584-A

Cost: $23.90 (Ford List: $31.86)

Purchased: Ford Motor Co.

Supplier: Ford Motor Co. sourced supplier

Notes: The good one. Rubber w/ steel core, torque limiters and double sealing lip.

Part: Rear Main Oil Seal (All New)

Part #: E5ZZ-6701-A

Cost: $16.63 (Ford List: $22.17)

Purchased: Ford Motor Co.

Supplier: Ford Motor Co. sourced supplier

Notes: I screwed up here. Apparently the later revised design for the 5.0L works for us and is an upgraded part. It has a double lip for improved sealing.

Good Tools to Have

Part: Flywheel Holder/Turner

Part #:

Cost: $5.99

Purchased: Harbor Freight


Notes: Super easy to use. Worth every penny.

Clutch Parts Total Cost: $256.30

Driveline Parts Total Cost: $25.98

Seals Total Cost: $40.53

GRAND TOTAL: $322.81 (Shipping and tax not included)

Extra Notes

Get the new rear main seal designed for the 5.0L!!!! Improved double lip design.

Don’t forget flywheel dowels!!!! If your flywheel has already been machined once before, the original machinist may have just machined them flat instead of removing them. No auto part stores had them (I checked five). I finally got them at a very old clutch shop in my city. He had exactly three. Not sure if Ford still carries them.

Remember to have trans fluid around in case you spill some. Good idea just to replace it anyway.

Remember to remove the shims from your old input bearing retainer and replace them in the same orientation in your new retainer.

Have LOTS of brake cleaner and rags available to clean stuff.

Contrary to some reports, a slide hammer w/ claw attachments works well for removing the input bearing. Just make sure it is seated well before pulling back on the hammer.

Lift up on the alignment tool while torqueing down the pressure plate. This will help later when you are sliding in the trans as you are much more likely to slide the clutch disc down slightly from the weight of the trans than you are to push it upward

It was impossible for me to get the trans off the bellhousing during removal, but I did separate them and then install the bellhousing separately. Much easier to align trans.

This article was written by Mr. T 02-10-2004).[/b]

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