North American Turbocoupe Organization



3G Alternator Upgrade - Yellow Wire Splice
John B Offline
Member
#1
I'm in the middle of doing the 3G alternator upgrade on my 88. I already have two of the three power wires from the alternator output stud ready to go; one is connected to the existing power cable and another has a ring terminal going directly to the battery side of the distribution block. My question is where exactly on the yellow wire (for the ammeter) should I remove the insulation to tie the third power wire into? I have the loom apart completely and see that the yellow wire contains several fusible wires as it travels closer to the distribution block. Should I splice into the yellow wire before or after these fusible wires or does it not matter because this yellow wire sees 12V throughout anyway? A picture of where to splice in would be awesome if someone has one. Thanks!
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, remote mount TFI, MGW short throw shifter... murdered out
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
I tapped into the yellow amp gauge shunt wire on the yellow wire itself (stripped back 1/2" of insulation and soldered) at the feed end (alt end) of the yellow wire.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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B Offline
Administrator
#3
I just ran a single fat wire from the new alternator to the battery side of the starter relay. It's been working fine like this for years. AFAIK, the purpose of connecting to the shunt wire is to retain ammeter operation, but mine never worked anyways so I never cared. Jeff will correct me if I'm wrong on this one.
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
The reason I ran 3 10 ga wires is due to the power distribution system on 87-88. At each end of the yellow ammeter shunt wire there are a boat load of fuseable links that power lots of high current stuff. I thought it best to supply each of these collections of fuseable links directly from the alt. Third wire that goes directly to the batt at the starter solenoid terminal is for charging the batt, as that wire on the 87-88 is originally a pathetically small gauge wire.

Charging system wiring on the 86 and earlier is much simpler, and a heavy gauge wire from the alt to the batt works just fine.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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