North American Turbocoupe Organization



3G Alternator question...
Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#1
Ok, I have a question on the write up here in the tech articles section, see the paragraph below:

"Now comes the fun part.  Locate the huge taped bundle of wires mid way between the alternator and the starter solenoid.  This is the main wiring junction. The original output wire from the original alternator goes into this bundle.   Use a knife, razor blade, etc. to cut the tape off the bundle. Inside you will find a thick yellow wire with a huge splice into several fuse links at each end.  The yellow wire is the shunt wire for the amp gauge.  Follow the original alternator power output wire to the splice at one end of the yellow wire.  Cut the original power wire a few inches from the huge splice, and connect it to one of the two remaining 10 gauge wires from the alternator.  Be sure to fully solder and tape this connection.  Use a knife or razor blade to remove about ¾” length of insulation from the thick yellow wire near the same end that the alternator power wire is spliced in to.  Strip some insulation from the last 10 gauge wire coming from the alternator, wind it around the bare section of the yellow wire, solder completely, and tape the connection up.  Push the wires all back together, and retape the whole bundle up so it looks more or less like it did. A tie wrap around the whole mess of wires will help hold them together before you tape them up.  Next, tape wrap the bundle of three 10 gauge wires with a good layer of tape, and enclose in split loom to eliminate any possibility of the wires chaffing. Note this is shown in figure five also.  Plug the regulator and stator plugs into the new alternator from the bottom.  Last, securely reconnect the positive battery cable. You are done!"

Does anyone have a pic of this wire bundle and how you connected them? This write up confuses me a little and a picture is worth a thousand words as they say. The connections and cuts on the yellow power wire is what I need to see. Thanks
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#2
This link is for the kit instructions that is sold by LMR. Does it look similar to what you are doing?
http://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/...rnator.pdf
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#3
Hey Mikey, that is handy with the pics, but the write up here mentions that our cars have more wiring to cut with our Amp gauge compared to the Mustangs. I would love to see a nice pic of the big bundle with the yellow wires spliced up like in the write up, before I start this project. I am saving that instructional though for future reference. Thanks
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#4
(05-18-2020, 10:27 PM)Kuch Wrote: Hey Mikey, that is handy with the pics, but the write up here mentions that our cars have more wiring to cut with our Amp gauge compared to the Mustangs. I would love to see a nice pic of the big bundle with the yellow wires spliced up like in the write up, before I start this project. I am saving that instructional though for future reference. Thanks
Please document and take pictures when you do yours.  I am sure myself and others would like the notes.  Thanks!
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