North American Turbocoupe Organization



3G Alternator question...
Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#1
Ok, I have a question on the write up here in the tech articles section, see the paragraph below:

"Now comes the fun part.  Locate the huge taped bundle of wires mid way between the alternator and the starter solenoid.  This is the main wiring junction. The original output wire from the original alternator goes into this bundle.   Use a knife, razor blade, etc. to cut the tape off the bundle. Inside you will find a thick yellow wire with a huge splice into several fuse links at each end.  The yellow wire is the shunt wire for the amp gauge.  Follow the original alternator power output wire to the splice at one end of the yellow wire.  Cut the original power wire a few inches from the huge splice, and connect it to one of the two remaining 10 gauge wires from the alternator.  Be sure to fully solder and tape this connection.  Use a knife or razor blade to remove about ¾” length of insulation from the thick yellow wire near the same end that the alternator power wire is spliced in to.  Strip some insulation from the last 10 gauge wire coming from the alternator, wind it around the bare section of the yellow wire, solder completely, and tape the connection up.  Push the wires all back together, and retape the whole bundle up so it looks more or less like it did. A tie wrap around the whole mess of wires will help hold them together before you tape them up.  Next, tape wrap the bundle of three 10 gauge wires with a good layer of tape, and enclose in split loom to eliminate any possibility of the wires chaffing. Note this is shown in figure five also.  Plug the regulator and stator plugs into the new alternator from the bottom.  Last, securely reconnect the positive battery cable. You are done!"

Does anyone have a pic of this wire bundle and how you connected them? This write up confuses me a little and a picture is worth a thousand words as they say. The connections and cuts on the yellow power wire is what I need to see. Thanks
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#2
This link is for the kit instructions that is sold by LMR. Does it look similar to what you are doing?
http://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/...rnator.pdf
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#3
Hey Mikey, that is handy with the pics, but the write up here mentions that our cars have more wiring to cut with our Amp gauge compared to the Mustangs. I would love to see a nice pic of the big bundle with the yellow wires spliced up like in the write up, before I start this project. I am saving that instructional though for future reference. Thanks
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#4
(05-18-2020, 10:27 PM)Kuch Wrote: Hey Mikey, that is handy with the pics, but the write up here mentions that our cars have more wiring to cut with our Amp gauge compared to the Mustangs. I would love to see a nice pic of the big bundle with the yellow wires spliced up like in the write up, before I start this project. I am saving that instructional though for future reference. Thanks
Please document and take pictures when you do yours.  I am sure myself and others would like the notes.  Thanks!
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#5
Follow the output wire coming out the back of the stock alt. The alt output wire ends at a big splice maybe 6" from the alt. The yellow wire comes out of this splice, and the other end of the yellow wire goes to another big splice. These are the 2 splices discussed in the article. From the alt output terminal run one 10 AWG wire to one end of the splice, another 10 AWG wire from the alt output to the other end of the yellow wire, and a third 10 AWG wire from the alt output directly to the battery.

Why not just run a 4 AWG or 6 AWG from the alt output directly to the battery and be done with it? This has to do with the screwy TC electrical system and the stupid amp gauge that never works anyway.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Mikey97D likes this post
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#6
I could do that, but I actually like the AMP gauge on mine. It works fine for me, so I would like to keep it. I'm sure once I get into the harness I will see where to cut and splice everything. Thanks for some more clarification Jeff.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Huey866 Offline
Posting Freak
#7
I noticed that the big yellow wire terminates into a 5 or 6 wire connection, (look for a rubber isolator where the splice is) then runs over to another bundle of 3 or 4 wires, (same isolator) that then runs up to the starter solenoid.

I simply cut the yellow jumper wire out, soldered 10 gauge and a lug on the two bundles, ran both of them to the starter solenoid. Used 2awg welding cable from the alternator, to a 150amp circuit breaker, to the starter solenoid.
87 TurboCoupe - silver, 137k, 5-speed, 3.73 w/ superior axles, Maximum Motorsports suspension, 03 Cobra Brakes, 93 GT vacuum assist, Griggs Subframe connectors, RR cam, Essy Adj. Cam Gear, Boblog, Bob Elbow, .63 T-3, ARP headstuds, Stinger 3in Exhaust, Magnaflow Muffler, AEM gauges, Tweecer RT, Godspeed Omega 18x9
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#8
^^^^ Sounds like an excellent way to do it!
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#9
I upgraded to a 3g from PA Performance quite a while back... at that time I bypassed the amp gauge. Let me know how it works out (wiring for the amp gauge) as I may want to connect that up one day.

I've had 2 87 TC's and they both burned up the original alternator harness. The first one took the whole car with it since it happened while parked when my wife took it to work back in the mid 90's. The second one was pretty close to bursting into flames but I happened to be there as my daughter pulled in the driveway with smoke billowing out of the hood. Needless to say, upgrading to the 3g in a 1987 is mandatory! I imagine there aren't too many around with the original alternator setup used in 87. 88 is an upgraded design and I don't think has the same fire hazard as the 87, but 3g is a no brainer upgrade!
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS
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