Robert Camp
Joined:
Jan 2006
Raleigh, NC
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Reference this link for previous info.
http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...012#000000
In corresponding with PAPerf. they state the I circuit of the 3G alt. should have a 500 ohm, 1/2 W resistor to simulate the charging lamp indicator as is found in this circuit in all factory 3G installs. (all according to PAPerf.) Has anyone found a suitable resistor that can be put in this circuit. The electronic circuit board type resistors have too small of leads to successfully solder one into the circuit.
Any ideas?
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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Joe F
Joined:
Jul 2002
Hawkins, Texas - USA
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Where is this resistor supposed to go? I've had my PA Performance 3G alternator installed without one (didn't know it was needed, not listed in the install instructions) for about four years now.
Do you have a link to an on-line diagram?
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Rod K
Joined:
Dec 2003
Charlotte, NC, US
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You only need the resistor if you are using an "idiot"light. The resistor is to flow enough current into the alternator to excite the alternator so it will charge IF the idiot light is burned out. If you have a working gauge you can just apply 12 volt to the I terminal.
When I did my conversion I added an idiot light. I used the unused check engine light on the right side (passenger side) of the instrument cluster. I did put a resistor in parallel with the light so when it burns out the alternator will still charge.
Rod Kiser, '88TC, 5 speed, 5 lug, Cobra 13" front brakes, Mark VII 11 1/4" rear disc brakes, PiMP'n, Bullit wheels, ATR 3" exhaust, Aluminum driveshaft, EDIS, 60 LB injectors, gutted upper & ported lower. NATO Member
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Joe F
Joined:
Jul 2002
Hawkins, Texas - USA
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Ah Ha! That explains it, thanks.
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Robert Camp
Joined:
Jan 2006
Raleigh, NC
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Not according to PAPerf. Here's the information provided by them. And please read the thread I referenced. It discusses burned out regulators and the need for the resistor.
Information provided by PAPerf.
"Problem is, a 3G alt always had a lamp and they use that exact relationship of voltage from the A and the I when designing the regulators. We just have to make the alt think it is on a car with a lamp, whether it is or not. "
" The I is the lamp wire, every car that had a 3G had a lamp. Even if the car you are installing the 3G into does not have a lamp, you have to simulate that function or you will destroy the regulator."
edited to add;
All idiot light equiped cars have a resistor shunt across the idiot light to make sure the circuit is not interrupted, disabling the alternator, if the idiot light burns out. The light/resistor in the "I" circuit results in less than full voltage being seen at the "I" terminal.
edited to add this late information form PAPerf.
My question to them;
You have a setup to replace the external regulator in this application. Does this fake regulator have the resistor in it?
Answer;
"Yes, in that kit (462802C) the resistor is in the box. In the wire kit that eliminates the reg (462802B) the resistor is inline on the green / red wire. You can't run the alt without it for any period of time without destroying the reg."
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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Joe F
Joined:
Jul 2002
Hawkins, Texas - USA
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That's very interesting. Is this something new they've discovered, or have they known it all along? I guess I'll have to call them and ask them about it since I really don't want my alternator to self destruct, although it has been fine for several years now. Hmmm...
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Robert Camp
Joined:
Jan 2006
Raleigh, NC
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I have information now that the 87/88 wiring has a resistor in the grn/rd ignition line. That would explain it working in those models. However earlier TCs don't have the resistor. Thus my need to put one it.
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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