North American Turbocoupe Organization



2.5 strocker
Glenn 88TC Offline
Posting Freak
#11
Quote:Originally posted by Harvs:
Cool, so what are your thoughts for the motor?

How about this(link) with one of the above turbos, a F.A.S.T. stand alone and some big injectors.
http://www.turboford.org/ubb/ultimatebb....6;t=005491

Don't forget that the 255lph pump and stock fuel rails won't support that power. Now you are looking at sumping the stock tank or fuel cell, new fuel lines, big fuel pump, new adj. regulator that accepts the new lines. Look at around $1000 for the fuel system. That is probably a conservative guess on the cost also.

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mods: SDS Digital Fuel Injection, ported & polished big valve head(1.89/1.59), .500 lift roller cam, custom upper and ported lower intakes, 60-1 stage III .63 turbo, powerstroke intercooler, 60mm throttle body, 75pph injectors, Walboro 255HP pump, Kirban adj. fuel reg., ATR header, 3" exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflow muffler, MSD 6al, MSD coil, MSD Launch Control, MSD 8.5mm wires, K&N filter, Star stage III clutch, Greddy Profec B boost controller, Weld Draglites with M/T ET Street 26x11.5/15

[This message has been edited by Glenn 88TC (edited 02-17-2004).]
NO TC and NO headaches.
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Harvs Offline
Senior Member
#12
I was just looking one Racer walsh, they sell complete 2.5 motors, thats what im looking to do instead of putting the internals in myself, are these good selections? What the difference between tall block, short, long?
Sandlewood beige 88 coupe 93k/ super 60 T3 at 24 pounds/ ATR 3" no cat or tail pipe/ 255lph high pressure pump/ Kirban AFPR at 42/ Spec stg3/ GN FMIC/ 1g DSM BOV/ 14* timing/ disconected KS/ Tri-ax short throw/ Autometer boost,vac and air to fuel/ 140 spedo/ Ford motorsports 5300-c springs/ tubular rear upper cntrl arms.
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Glenn 88TC Offline
Posting Freak
#13
Quote:Originally posted by Harvs:
I was just looking one Racer walsh, they sell complete 2.5 motors, thats what im looking to do instead of putting the internals in myself, are these good selections? What the difference between tall block, short, long?

The tall deck block was a limited edition(beefier, capable of bigger stroke) SVO part from the late 80's early 90's. No longer made and very rare. You're looking over $300 for a bare block.

Long block includes the head.

Short block is just block, crank, rods. pistons and such.

Check pricing with Esslinger or Race Engineering before going with Racer Walsh. They will have better quality.
NO TC and NO headaches.
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#14
Really good call to shop around...

Not that I'm anywhere near those power levels, but I have been doing my homework. I was in contact with a guy named Larry Widmer a while back and he recommended Race Engineering very highly. He also said, probably the most crucial part of a system like ours is a really efficient drivetrain. Light crank/rods/pistons, flywheel, driveshaft, balanced everything- That's going to make life a lot easier when you really start hausing. Lose less power thru those pieces, more gets to the wheels.
--n8

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What every bird needs
1987tc
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#15
There were 200 tall decks made. A virgin one just went for $1200 on e-bay and that was dirt cheap.
Pete Dunham


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