North American Turbocoupe Organization



2.3 Bird engine removal - with or without trans?
ridgeback Offline
Member
#1
I am going to pull the engine instead of an oil pan drop. Whats the easiest way... with or without the tranny?

A 1 ton rafter chain hoist should suffice???

Any helpful hints?



87 2.3 turbo coupe
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
If there is no need to remove the trans, leave it be, just support it. It will be easier that way I think.
Pete Dunham


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ridgeback Offline
Member
#3
Thanks Pete! Remove the 6 bolts to the block, or remove between the clutch and tranny?

Do you know of any step by step write ups on this procedure?

Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Big Al Offline
Member
#4
I recommend separating the bellhousing/engine so you can replace the rear main seal and inspect your clutch/flywheel.

Plan on replacing every rubber hose connected to your engine. Especially the ones carrying water to and from the turbo. The bottom one is a PITA to change while the motor is in.
SOLD: 1988 Thunderbird Turbocoupe, Now a 5 Speed, all options, Black. Stinger 3 into 2 with Magnaflows, Gillis Valve
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ridgeback Offline
Member
#5
OK so the engine should be pulled forward until the Tranny shaft is free from the clutch, then lift engine up? Reason I ask is because of the horizontal thru bolts for the engine mounts only allow me to lift a few inches up but will still hang up on themselves if I try to pull forward. I assume I need to unbolt the mount brackets from the block??

Hoses.. vacuum and fluid? the hoses listed in posted pic? Which one is the PITA you speak of? Whats that stand for again??

[Image: 87%202.3%20Bird_Hoses.jpg?dl=0]
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
The hoses hardest to change and also out of sight from the top are the coolant hoses under the lower intake on the driver's side.
Most of the short, 90* formed hoses can be bought preformed and just cut to fit where needed. The long thinner hose that connects to the outlet on the bottom side of the lower intake can be replaced with a piece of appropriate sized heater hose. Not all hoses are shown in the diagram you posted.

Take the engine mounts loose.

You are going to have to remove the hood so be sure to mark the fastener locations on the attaching points first. This will save some time when it comes to reinstalling it.

Some of this may help: http://natomessageboard.com/ubbthreads.p...#Post59872
Pete Dunham


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ridgeback Offline
Member
#7
"Take the engine mounts loose"..?

do you mean take the mounts out? I have the thru bolt on each mount removed and engine lifted from below only gets the mounts a almost 2" apart but not enough to clear themselves when shimmying the engine forward and away from the tranny shaft in the clutch
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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