rebuilding the 2.3 what is needed

after going on the other board (turbo ford) for advice on the engine swap ive been convinced to stay and rebuild my 2.3 can someone direct me in the write direction im going to use my tax money to fix b4 carslie please help i need to know what pistons and rods are the best and where can i get them

Changing Pistons and Rods may or may not be necessary...are they toast ? If so, be sure you use forged pistons that are dished (Wiseco).

Crower Sportsman rods are good if you plan on making some good HP...but stock rods are sufficient.

If you're changing the pistons and rods...be sure to replace all the bearings.

Some of the best mods you can make for the money are (sources are listed as only one possibility and not necessarily an endorsement - check the Vendor's Section - how was that Pete ?):

Eliminate the stock airbox with K&N filter
3" Downpipe - Sacramento Mustang
3" Single or 2 1/2" dual Cat Back Exhaust
Boost Bypass Valve - Gillis
Porting the E6 Exhaust Manifold
Porting the Head
Porting the Intake Manifolds
255LPH Fuel Pump - Walbro
Adjustable FPR - Kirban
Advance the base timing to around 12-14* BTDC

That's a start anyhow.

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)

[This message has been edited by Dan E (edited 02-28-2002).]

You will have to tear down the old engine and inspect it to determine what you need.
You will probably have to get the parts together from a few places. Try Summit racing for pistons and rods per what Dan mentioned.
TRW also makes forged pistons for our cars.
A machine shop will have to determine if you need an over bore or not based on wear in the cylinder walls. I would recommend a book on general engine rebuilding for more detailed information

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

Dan's got your parts list under control. Overbore probably won't be needed unless something went massivly wrong or the motor blew up or something. I've seen em with 200K miles + that had virtually no wear and no ridge at all. Have everything checked however. Little crap in the bore will come out with a hone (cost me a couple $ per hole). You may or may not need block decking (flatness), same deal with the head so have em checked or your headgasket will never seal for crap. Port your lower intake and either gut or port your upper. Gutting it will gain you hp but loose you torque low end. I liked the results but some ppl haven't. Also it will take some serious time. Ported e6 is big especially if you port match the head.

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87 TC 5-Speed. Medium Red/Red Leather. 5.0 T-5. Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower Ported E6, Ported/Polished Head. Knifed TB Butterfly. Esslinger alum. flywheel, FMS SVO clutch & plate, Unorthodox drive pulleys, K&N Cone, VAM Mod, Dual 2.5 dynomax, teflon impeller'd 18k mile IHI, Brembo vented cadmium rotors & 2-piston calipers, Brembo lines & 4-channel ABS Computer. HPM Rear lower C. Arms, Griggs front A Arms & K Member, Max. Motorsports Caster/Camber plates, Eibach pro kit, KYB AGX Struts, Tokico shocks & quads, PST Polygraphite all around, Lincoln LSC anti-roll bar (f), 225/50zr16's. 2kWrms Infinity/Clarion Pro Audio Sound System

how much money are we talking here i want to have the car running good or close to excellent b4 carslie and dan you mentioned summit for the pistons and rods what sizes do i look for since im new to this mechanical stuff ive owned cars of year but hav ealways depended on mechanics to fix it so can you please give me more input thanks

I was in only about $400 to do mine..including a great deal on some NOS ford pistons.but if you reuse stock ones you'll be even less. Couldn't tell you what building it up would cost ya tho.

I cant remember exactly how much it cost to rebuild mine.. but not much.. the car had 177,000 on it.. I used stock rods and pistons and didnt bore it.. (didnt need it really) I bought a gasket kit.. melling high volume oil pump.. rings, bearings, cam bearings, had my head redone (everything in it new) $150 at the local shop, new cam, lifters, followers, new timing belt, and that should just about do it.. I bought everthing at advance auto...

well that makes me feel better knowing that it wont cost me over a thousand what ever is left from my money i will use to increase the horse power maybe a 3 inch downpipe and a bigger tb for now unless i hit the lotto i will have to wait till next year to get up to the 330 horsepower range which is my goal by the parts little by little thanks again