North American Turbocoupe Organization



Track Prep
KaKawomepb Offline
Junior Member
#11
I pretty much knew that the stock replacement rotors were going to be warped and garbage after a track day, and I didn't see much of an issue with just replacing them afterwards considering how cheap they are. For some reason the idea of drilled and slotted rotors did not occur to me, though it seems like a good investment for now. I see EBC and a couple others make drilled and slotted for the front, but Stop Tech seems to be the only ones I have found who make them for the rear. Which ones did you install?

MM pretty much only recommended doing the five lug swap, which I will do just not so soon. I have alerts for the junkyards in my area whenever they get a 94-95 mustang in.
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Hawk Offline
Senior Member
#12
Stock rotors are a better choice for a track application than cross drilled rotors are. Cracked cross drilled rotors are common due to the intense heat the brakes generate when tracking. If you read on the Power Stop website they say slotted rotors are better for track cars. They don't say why though. They want people to lay down their money for their "fancy" rotors.

The stock fan set up is fine. They pull plenty of air and are controlled to come on at an appropriate temp. Changing fans won't help. The TC needs more radiator core. Every TC I have owned ran too hot when pushed hard. Ford didn't intend for the car to be run hard continuously. My 2019 Mustang PP1 GT came from the factory with an oil cooler and larger radiator than the standard GT because Ford knew they would be run hard. It stayed right in the "normal" range when run hard for 20 minute sessions on the track.

Here is a good explanation of what and why.

https://nomoneymotorsports.com/2019/03/2...th-rotors/
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Chas K 88 Offline
Member
#13
Thanks Hawk, that was an interesting read. Evidently my previous rotor issues weren't the rotors fault at all. Still, I haven't had any trouble with them and I don't run on a track so I'll leave them on AND try to quit giving bad advice.
Chas K
Current setup - 88 T-bird, 5 speed, vacuum assist master cylinder, T3/T4 50 trim turbo from Bo-port, oil feed & return lines, 3” turbo down elbow, 3" to 2.5" dual exhaust and PiMPx from Stinger 255LPH fuel pump, CD, trip-minder, RR , K&N, 140 MPH speedo conversion (thanks Jeff K).
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Hawk Offline
Senior Member
#14
(01-15-2023, 04:12 PM)Chas K 88 Wrote: Thanks Hawk, that was an interesting read. Evidently my previous rotor issues weren't the rotors fault at all. Still, I haven't had any trouble with them and I don't run on a track so I'll leave them on AND try to quit giving bad advice.

The manufacturers themselves are responsible for the myth that cross drilled rotors are the answer to better braking.   It sells parts.  Road racers know different from trying everything under the sun.  For general all around use, they are fine.  They really don't offer any benefit with modern brake pad technologies.
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#15
(01-14-2023, 08:10 PM)Hawk Wrote: Stock rotors are a better choice for a track application than cross drilled rotors are.  Cracked cross drilled rotors are common due to the intense heat the brakes generate when tracking. If you read on the Power Stop website they say slotted rotors are better for track cars.  They don't say why though.  They want people to lay down their money for their "fancy" rotors.

The stock fan set up is fine.  They pull plenty of air and are controlled to come on at an appropriate temp.  Changing fans won't help.  The TC needs more radiator core.  Every TC I have owned ran too hot when pushed hard.  Ford didn't intend for the car to be run hard continuously.  My 2019 Mustang PP1 GT came from the factory with an oil cooler and larger radiator than the standard GT because Ford knew they would be run hard. It stayed right in the "normal" range when run hard for 20 minute sessions on the track.

Here is a good explanation of what and why.

https://nomoneymotorsports.com/2019/03/2...th-rotors/

Hawk, have you tried boxing in your radiator? Before or after the radiator upgrade?  Asking because I noticed cooler running temps after installing the Scotts Rod panel on my non track car.  I was pondering the idea of boxing that area in when I install my fmic.  Also, what radiator to you go to for track days?
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, Walbro 255 lph, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.   
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Hawk Offline
Senior Member
#16
My TCs ran in G-Stock, which allowed very few changes to the car. IOW, I did not alter the ducting to the radiator. That is/was not allowed in Stock classes when I ran that car. It was almost bone stock with the addition of more front end camber within standard adjustment range and a set of sticky tires. Prior to 2015 Stock classes could run R comp tires. I have not run a TC since the 2014 season. I switched to Z28 Camaros in F-Stock and currently run a 2019 Mustang PP1 GT in F-Street. SCCA changed the class name for Stock classes to Street classes a few years ago. IOW, F-Stock = F-Street. G-Stock = G-Street.

I think the radiator was/is a Harrison 3 row all copper and brass radiator. You probably can't even get one anymore. The original radiator was a 2 row core. The 3 row made a huge difference in cooling capacity.
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KaKawomepb Offline
Junior Member
#17
The info about the rotors is good to know. I purchased the Hawk pads I mentioned earlier. Now I'm just waiting for my hoses hardware kit to get here as RockAuto messed up my order and sent me the wrong part along with losing one of my hoses. Since the evaporator case is still out and there is some rust repair that needs to be done before the cooling system is plumbed back up, I will probably get a radiator from Gnari as it is a thicker 3 row over the slightly thinner 2 core that the Mishimoto one is. 

Next on order will likely be the subframe connecters from global west instead of Griggs. More expensive but all that I've read points to them being a better option. I think I'm making alright time to be on track for running some time in March, as long as MM's estimate for my stuff to come off of backorder is correct and I actually get off my butt and keep things moving.
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Chas K 88 Offline
Member
#18
A radiator tip in case you didn't already know. The radiator in a TC is interchangeable with a fox mustang, I have both & have done it. This may save you a few coins if buying new.
Chas K
Current setup - 88 T-bird, 5 speed, vacuum assist master cylinder, T3/T4 50 trim turbo from Bo-port, oil feed & return lines, 3” turbo down elbow, 3" to 2.5" dual exhaust and PiMPx from Stinger 255LPH fuel pump, CD, trip-minder, RR , K&N, 140 MPH speedo conversion (thanks Jeff K).
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