brakes

ets88tc, PM sent.

Just a quick input. Have you removed the bleed screws completely and checked them for blockage? Quite often, the bleed screw itself is the culprit!
Sounds like your pump is running, which should mean you have brake pressure. If you have someone to help you, you can loosen the lines at the T-Block, and have someone push the brake pedal down. If you have fluid there, great, its the lines to the rear brakes. If not, work your way forward along the rear brake line to the next junction, and try loosening and pushing the pedal down to see if there is fluid there. Keep going untill you get to the ABS.
Just to add, once you have the fittings loose, and the pedal has been pushed down, if fluid comes out, DO NOT let the pedal back up until you have tightened the fittings back up! Makes rebleeding the rears easier, as you will not have a ton of air in the lines after your tests! And remember, there is a lot of pressure in the line, so be carefull.
Martin

if i choose to change over to non abs from a 94 mustang does the 88 tc create enough vacum to do this conversion?

If the relay is working and you have power at the connector to the gray/red wire and don't want to take the harness apart just replace the gray/red with another wire run directly to the motor. When you get the motor working properly, that is, you have power brakes after starting the car and the red brake light is out, you can bleed the rear brakes with the ignition key in run. Note that you fill to the MAX line on the fluid reservoir only after the hydraulic pump has pressurized the system and you bleed the rear brakes only with the system pressurized. If the pump runs when you connect it to the battery you should be able to get it working properly and avoid converting to a vacuum system.

that's just it i'm not getting power at either the relay or the pump motor.so far no visible signs of any fuseable links that may be bad.

At the relay there should be 12v on the gray/yellow wire with the ignition switch on. There should be 12v at the tan/yellow wire all the time. The T/Y is connected to an 18 gage black fusible link near the starter motor relay. The pink/light blue wire at the relay should be grounded. If it is not there is a problem with the pressure switch. If you have power in those two wires and a ground in the P/LB wire and not in the gray/red wire replace the relay.

check all those no power on gray/yell, i'll double check but i don't think i had power at tan/yellow either.

Use a test light, not a DMM, to check for 12V at the wires Don mentions. As Don suggests, if you find a bad wire in the harness, just overlay the harness with a new wire.

jeff i did check with test light could this be part of the ignition switch not letting it get power, if not then i'm going to replace wire and also put in a fuseable link to keep as close to stock as i can.

The gray/yellow wire is connected to the ignition switch terminal A2 thru a blue 20 gage fuse link located near the starter relay. The same circuit is also connected to the ABS control module in the trunk, the electronic engine control module (EEC) and the oxygen sensor. Any problems in that wire related to the ABS are probably located in the area between the starter relay and the pump relay if you get power in the G/Y with the key on at the oxygen sensor connector. If not you have to consider the ignition switch and the fusible link.