North American Turbocoupe Organization



Fuel pump wies?
Harvs Offline
Senior Member
#1
Ok i don't want to sound stupid, but i really don't feel like blowing my self up. I just put my 255 pump in. the mustang pump came with a harness, so i had to cut and attach the wires on the harness to the wires on the fuel pump bracket. Is it ok to have the wires exposed to the gas?
Sandlewood beige 88 coupe 93k/ super 60 T3 at 24 pounds/ ATR 3" no cat or tail pipe/ 255lph high pressure pump/ Kirban AFPR at 42/ Spec stg3/ GN FMIC/ 1g DSM BOV/ 14* timing/ disconected KS/ Tri-ax short throw/ Autometer boost,vac and air to fuel/ 140 spedo/ Ford motorsports 5300-c springs/ tubular rear upper cntrl arms.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Let me put it this way. If those bare wires touch each other or something else, you won't be asking any more "how much HP" questions. Seriously, disconnect the battery now and fix it. Don't try to start it or drive it until it's fixed correctly

Is this the Walbro pump? I might be wrong but I don't remember having to splice any wires when I put mine in.
Pete Dunham


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Harvs Offline
Senior Member
#3
Its a walbro 255 high pressure from JD's performance. the pump did not have the prongs to slip the wires on it like the stock one, the 255 had a totaly different setup, it had an electical harness with red and black wires on it. It had no instuctions on what to do with it. What should i do to fix it, i mean how else do i connect it?

[This message has been edited by Harvs (edited 11-09-2003).]
Sandlewood beige 88 coupe 93k/ super 60 T3 at 24 pounds/ ATR 3" no cat or tail pipe/ 255lph high pressure pump/ Kirban AFPR at 42/ Spec stg3/ GN FMIC/ 1g DSM BOV/ 14* timing/ disconected KS/ Tri-ax short throw/ Autometer boost,vac and air to fuel/ 140 spedo/ Ford motorsports 5300-c springs/ tubular rear upper cntrl arms.
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FlyByeBoy Offline
Member
#4
And a word to the wise. Don't use electrical tape. It could come off at a later date and you'll still have bare wires. You can get an assortment of heat shrink tubing from Radio shack. And use a hair dryer or heat gun not an open flame.

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Not So Stock 88 TC. 94 SHO w/5speed. (NATO Member)
Not So Stock 88 TC. 94 SHO w/5speed. (NATO Member)
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Harvs Offline
Senior Member
#5
Well, how did everyone else install it?
Sandlewood beige 88 coupe 93k/ super 60 T3 at 24 pounds/ ATR 3" no cat or tail pipe/ 255lph high pressure pump/ Kirban AFPR at 42/ Spec stg3/ GN FMIC/ 1g DSM BOV/ 14* timing/ disconected KS/ Tri-ax short throw/ Autometer boost,vac and air to fuel/ 140 spedo/ Ford motorsports 5300-c springs/ tubular rear upper cntrl arms.
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B_Lieder Offline
Senior Member
#6
I second the tubes.

On another note, i just did a little finessing to the prongs.

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Bill Lieder
1988 TC
MODS: Ported big valve head with ss valves, ported upper & lower intakes, Racer Walsh #1 Roller cam, Walboro 255HP pump, Kirban adjustable FPR, 3" Exhaust, Star stage 2 clutch w/ stage 3 pp, K&N cone, Gillis valve, Race engineering adjustable cam sproket, 245 50 16 Bridgestone tires
Bill L
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Harvs Offline
Senior Member
#7
Quote:Originally posted by B_Lieder:
I second the tubes.

On another note, i just did a little finessing to the prongs.


WOW! im retarted, why didnt i do that.

thanks
Sandlewood beige 88 coupe 93k/ super 60 T3 at 24 pounds/ ATR 3" no cat or tail pipe/ 255lph high pressure pump/ Kirban AFPR at 42/ Spec stg3/ GN FMIC/ 1g DSM BOV/ 14* timing/ disconected KS/ Tri-ax short throw/ Autometer boost,vac and air to fuel/ 140 spedo/ Ford motorsports 5300-c springs/ tubular rear upper cntrl arms.
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tps87turbo Offline
Posting Freak
#8
I had the same problem when I put my pump in. If I remember correctly, the red wire on the fuel pump bracket will fit on the new pump without a problem. I had to change the black connector to a larger one since it was much smaller than what the pump would need. Make sure you use the heat shrink like FlyByeBoy said on the new connector you install on the black wire.

Do exactly what Pete said, otherwise your T-bird may be like a Ford Pinto without a collision. We don't need that to happen.

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Tony Sceia
Red 88 TC loaded with every option, Walbro 255, 3- core Radiator, Star Stage 3 Clutch, Rebuilt T-5 Tranny..... Now I just need to do some Body work & she'll be like new.
Tony Sceia -

HIS Red 88 TC
http://turbotbird.com/showroom/data_r-z/...a_88tc.php
HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Work in Progress
87 Gray TC Parts Car - Gave to BJL and is now his daily driver
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Harvs Offline
Senior Member
#9
Since i already screwed up the wires, how can i fix them? The top is rivited on, can i replace them or do i have to buy a whole new bracket?
Sandlewood beige 88 coupe 93k/ super 60 T3 at 24 pounds/ ATR 3" no cat or tail pipe/ 255lph high pressure pump/ Kirban AFPR at 42/ Spec stg3/ GN FMIC/ 1g DSM BOV/ 14* timing/ disconected KS/ Tri-ax short throw/ Autometer boost,vac and air to fuel/ 140 spedo/ Ford motorsports 5300-c springs/ tubular rear upper cntrl arms.
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Harvs Offline
Senior Member
#10
please help me im desprit! I don't know how to fix it, the wires on the stock sending unit and the stock pump have metal connectors,you can see the wires through them, how is that good, you would think that would have blew up before, those were exposed too. Whats the difference? And the connectors on the sending unit are rivited on, how can i get it off?
Sandlewood beige 88 coupe 93k/ super 60 T3 at 24 pounds/ ATR 3" no cat or tail pipe/ 255lph high pressure pump/ Kirban AFPR at 42/ Spec stg3/ GN FMIC/ 1g DSM BOV/ 14* timing/ disconected KS/ Tri-ax short throw/ Autometer boost,vac and air to fuel/ 140 spedo/ Ford motorsports 5300-c springs/ tubular rear upper cntrl arms.
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