North American Turbocoupe Organization



Transmission Wiring Harness Diagram
spittinfire Offline
Member
#1
Does anyone have a diagram that outlines the wires from the A4LD in an 88?  I finished the 5 speed swap in my car and everything works great except now when I let the clutch out the sentry lights come on for the low beams and the tail lights.  When I push the clutch in, they go out.  Seems to me that the safety switch on the clutch is back feeding somewhere. 

I cut off the old pigtail and used a 4 pin deutsch connector to tie the reverse light switch in and bypass the neutral safety.  I terminated the other wires.  I feel like I did this correctly because the car starts, runs and drives great but maybe I missed something.  I'm just trying to get the sentry straightened out.
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spittinfire Offline
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#2
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spittinfire Offline
Member
#3
So I've learned that if I ground the white/pink wire coming from the neutral safety switch then the problem goes away while the car is running. The idles drops to normal, sentry works correctly. The problem with doing this is that if you ground that then you cannot start the car because it defeats the safety switch.
I pulled the module for the warning lights and it is the same part number and pin out as the 5 speed car I got the transmission from.

I finally found a wiring diagram and I still think the changes I made to the automatic harness should make it exactly like a manual harness.
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teal95 Offline
Senior Member
#4
Not sure but I need to redo mine. It will only start in reverse and the backup lights are on all the time. And that was doing it with the EVTM in front of me and the engineering wiring diagram.

steve
'83 & '84 GT turbo EEC-Tuner
'85.5 & '86 SVO twEECer
2x '87 & '88 TC QuarterHorse
'93 LX 5.0 notch Moates chips
3x '95 & '96 GT
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spittinfire Offline
Member
#5
It sounds like you just have the reverse lights and the neutral safety backwards. Out of curiosity, do the reverse lights go out when you put it in reverse?
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Mkz Offline
Junior Member
#6
Hi guys, sorry this info is probably not much help now, but maybe it may help someone later. 

From 1988 EVTM

                       


(Note to mods; I’m a bit new here so hopefully these single diagrams are ok to post, as they are for the sole purpose of owner diagnostics. please feel free to modify, change or delete this post. Thank you, Rod )
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spittinfire Offline
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#7
I ended up buying one of those manual off ebay but I never figured out what was causing my problem. Then the accident happen and now my car is sitting, waiting to get repainted. Long story short, I still have not figured out what's going on here.
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Mkz Offline
Junior Member
#8
That’s good you got the evtm , they definitely come in handy with these cars.
 Your TC was looking so great in the photos, It’s tragic what happened.  I hope you’ll be back on the road soon. 

I’ve not done a tbird auto / 5 speed swap myself but it sounds like you did it all correct and also used the good deutsch connectors which make great water tight connections.

(Sorry if I put in too much detail, Just added extra info for reference for others later and 
hopefully it’s not all complete B$ Smile 

Clutch switch jumper out - switch in  - ref pg 46
Neutral safety switch out - jumper in - ref pg 46/ 180
Reverse switch- reconnected             - ref pg 180


Not sure if you have already checked into the pcm input signals but from what I gather... the issues you are having maybe related to pin 30 from the eec IV pcm. 
The manual transmissions show this wire is grounded.
For the automatic it is part of the starter circuit to the neutral safety switch and ties into system sentry for bulb check.  As well as neutral safety start function it provides transmission neutral input to eec iv pcm  to compensate the idle for the transmission engagement. 

According to pg 67 note i connector 304 ( 8 pin black ) located left dash panel near wiper motor, you should be able to access the wiring or go directly to the eec iv  60 pin connector. 

Wire #376  to eec iv pin 30 - connect to ground
 ( picture shows the 304 connector female pin going to pcm but recommend confirming)

leave the wire going to ignition/ neutral safety switch  “OPEN “

Check out page 68, 67 and 46 in your evtm, and see what you think, as I mentioned I haven’t done the swap so I cannot confirm 100% it will fix all the problems ( insert disclaimer here ) 

Let us know what you find 








             
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