Distributor

I have a problem. Yesterday I was changing my cap and rotor, on my 87 TC. But the cap bolts were so corroded they broke. So I drilled them one out but the other side were the bole goes through was broke. Now when I start my car it'll only run about 4 sec than die. If I give it gas in the beginning it dies quicker. Could It be the cap isn't exactley in place or what?

I don't know if that's why the car won't run,
it's possible. I have broken those ears off the dist. I had to get a rebuilt. I use antisieze compound on the dist. cap bolts.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

Seems to me like the cap would pretty much stay in place even with one ear broken off. Does it wiggle around or anything?

Are you sure you have the wires on in the correct order? Firing order is 1-3-4-2 and the dist. rotates clockwise.

The cap will cock to the side with only one bolt holding it, and teh car will run like crap. Dont ask me how I know this!

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

I figured out the problem. I had some wires disconnected and that's why it didn't run. My bad