North American Turbocoupe Organization



Squeaky Clutch Pedal
JT Offline
Posting Freak
#11
(08-06-2021, 01:11 PM)anasazi4st Wrote:
(08-03-2021, 08:22 PM)My JT Wrote: The PRC can be properly troubleshooted by using the system's diagnostics. If it's intermittent, it could be more difficult of course. While relays can fail, I've never needed to replace any PRC relay. The common problems on the PRC are the PRC actuators themselves getting stuck as it the switch breaking internally. But it's best to use the PRC's tools (diagnostics) to determine exactly what the fault is by reading what it's telling you.

Sorry to differ, but after replacing each actuator several times, I finally went to the source, which was the FIRM ride relay. Once replaced, it was all good. Even actuators that I had marked as bad worked again.

Of course I would also recommend the built-in diagnostics, which was a step I took before I went at the main relays.

The actuators are more complicated than the relays because the actuators are motors and also sense position. That's in addition to the rubber stops that would deteriorate in the actuator.

While not a complicated system by today's standards, as the relays have been used forever and the actuators aren't that advanced, it's advisable to use the system's own diagnostics, especially when it's already telling you there's a fault, to help prevent replacing parts or spending time on something in the wrong area. If the issue is intermittent, or if you have spare, free, parts and a rough idea of the failure or failure point then that's slightly different.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#12
(08-06-2021, 05:41 PM)In JT Wrote:
(08-06-2021, 01:11 PM)anasazi4st Wrote:
(08-03-2021, 08:22 PM)My JT Wrote: The PRC can be properly troubleshooted by using the system's diagnostics. If it's intermittent, it could be more difficult of course. While relays can fail, I've never needed to replace any PRC relay. The common problems on the PRC are the PRC actuators themselves getting stuck as it the switch breaking internally. But it's best to use the PRC's tools (diagnostics) to determine exactly what the fault is by reading what it's telling you.

Sorry to differ, but after replacing each actuator several times, I finally went to the source, which was the FIRM ride relay. Once replaced, it was all good. Even actuators that I had marked as bad worked again.

Of course I would also recommend the built-in diagnostics, which was a step I took before I went at the main relays.

The actuators are more complicated than the relays because the actuators are motors and also sense position. That's in addition to the rubber stops that would deteriorate in the actuator.

While not a complicated system by today's standards, as the relays have been used forever and the actuators aren't that advanced, it's advisable to use the system's own diagnostics, especially when it's already telling you there's a fault, to help prevent replacing parts or spending time on something in the wrong area. If the issue is intermittent, or if you have spare, free, parts and a rough idea of the failure or failure point then that's slightly different.

I agree. In my opinion, the Scientific Method (in some form) should be followed. This basically states that an item or system should undergo a series of tests, let’s say—10. Well, you don’t stop at Test #7 just because you got the results you wanted. The Scientific Method dictates that you should still perform Test 8, 9 and 10, as you might learn more from those tests/gather additional data that will be of some help. Perhaps the results of those tests will negate what you’ve learned in Test #7.

In my case, I made the homemade PRC tester, inserted it in the connector under the console ashtray and noted the results, which pointed the way to go (PRC Firm relay). But it is rather obvious that there is something else wrong when an actuator works intermittently, or does not work on the car but is brand new and works properly on the test bench.

It’s generally not a good accepted practice to simply throw parts at a problem, trying to fix it. Even if you do succeed, you have no idea if that really solved the problem. Don’t just put a band-aid on there—fix the problem, not just the symptom.
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1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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