07-11-2021, 06:39 AM (This post was last modified: 07-11-2021, 06:40 AM by anasazi4st.)
(07-10-2021, 02:38 PM)I’m Jeff K Wrote: NAPA used to sell high quality parts, but those days are long gone. Many NAPA parts these days are rebadged Dorman JUNK selling for 2x the price of just buying regular Dorman brand. The NAPA 2 miles away used to have a full parking lot on the weekends 20 years ago. Now the parking lot is virtually empty every time I drive past it.
Well, the advantage of NAPA was they were more likely to have a part for our cars than anyone else you could walk into from the street (note that leaves out Internet parts suppliers like RockAuto). I remember that my turn signal switch broke about 15 years ago, and all the other parts stores I called said “Sorry that’s a dealer item.” Yeah, except Ford probably stopped selling that around 2000.
NAPA had it, and in stock too. In the mid 90s I worked for them part-time as a Parts Driver because I thought it would help me better understand what makes a vehicle run, so I was pretty familiar with their massive inventory. Which, as Jeff points out, back then was actually worth something.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
I've experienced the same problem where the starter keeps cranking even though the key is in the off position. Solenoid is almost new, so now I want to change the ignition switch. Problem is I can't get the steering column cover off to get to the switch. I removed the 3 screws holding the cover as well as the plastic collar that surrounds the steering wheel position lever and I can separate the 2 piece column cover but something else keeping it from coming out. I can see the ignition switch, but no way to get it out. I don't want to keep messing with it til I break something. Pls advise!
Coupe,
I have not had any issues removing my column covers before, I did the bottom first, then slid the top one out as it kind of fits under the dash bezel cover. Can you remove the bottom piece first? Replace in reverse order.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof, T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
What Kuch said. I have replaced 3 ignition switches in the 88 TC and 2 in the 86 Tbird 5.0 as well as the MFS in the 88 TC. No issues getting the top and bottom covers off for access ever.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
OK, I got it off without breaking anything. Turns out there were 2 more hidden screws holding that sucker together. Had to remove 2 more plastic panels (1 on each side of the column) to be able to reach them. Thanks so much for your help.
So now I've changed the starter switch and the solenoid ................... and STILL the same problem. Had to jump out and pull the battery cable because the starter kept cranking even after I pulled the key out! What the heck else could be going on here? Can you suggest a course of action? I am stumped.
Here is a photo of the starter solenoid. The red arrow shows the connector coming from the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is in the cranking position, 12V is applied to the solenoid, causing it to connect the positive terminal (green arrow) to the starter cable. When you release the key, 12V goes away. I would start by verifying your solenoid and starter are working properly. Remove the connector (red arrow), put the key in the ON position (car in park/neutral), and then jump across the connector (red arrow) to the 12V supply (green arrow). Just use a screw driver. The starter should engage and start the engine. Once started, remove the screwdriver. If the starter is still engaged, you have a problem with the solenoid or starter. Check the wires connected to the solenoid compared to the picture, you may have something mixed up. The starter could also be hanging if the bendix is stuck (but likely not given your description).
If the solenoid and starter test good, then you have an ignition switch problem, meaning 12V is remaining on the connector (red arrow) after you release the key. You can monitor the connector with a DVM and diagnose the ignition switch. Do you have an auto or manual trans? There is a clutch safety switch and a neutral/park safety switch which could cause a problem. Monitor the connector (red arrow) and play around with the ignition switch, clutch pedal, park selector.
Mine is a 5 speed manual. Starter is about 2 years old, solenoid and starter switch are brand spankin new. I'll follow Brad's instructions and see what happens. Still would like to know where that "clutch safety switch" is located. Thanks again everyone for your help and patience.
(09-20-2022, 05:04 PM)Coupedaddy Wrote: Mine is a 5 speed manual. Starter is about 2 years old, solenoid and starter switch are brand spankin new. I'll follow Brad's instructions and see what happens. Still would like to know where that "clutch safety switch" is located. Thanks again everyone for your help and patience.
I believe it's on the clutch pedal similar to the brake switch on the brake pedal.
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!! (SOLD)
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam