North American Turbocoupe Organization



ECT
Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#31
There is no separate ECT for the fans. PCM uses the ECT you have in your hand for temp info and sends a signal to the IRCM to turn the fan(s) on and off.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#32
Ok thanks, I was pretty sure about that.
In regards to the rest I think I have it figured out, a little education on the use of the multimeter helped.
The reason the 2000 setting wouldn't work is because the reading was higher than that. Didn't realize that on the other settings you multiply the number by 1000.
This would mean that the reading of 2.19 I was getting in boiling water would be 2190 which is probably around 1000 Ohm off of the approx 1200 Ohm I should be seeing.
I'm cautiously optimistic that this is another problem solved!
I'll confirm once I get the part.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#33
(08-04-2020, 07:27 AM)Rob H Wrote: Ok thanks, I was pretty sure about that.
In regards to the rest I think I have it figured out, a little education on the use of the multimeter helped.
The reason the 2000 setting wouldn't work is because the reading was higher than that. Didn't realize that on the other settings you multiply the number by 1000.
This would mean that the reading of 2.19 I was getting in boiling water would be 2190 which is probably around 1000 Ohm off of the approx 1200 Ohm I should be seeing.
I'm cautiously optimistic that this is another problem solved!
I'll confirm once I get the part.

That’s a nice testing setup, Rob.

For your own benefit you should take the new part when it arrives and put it into the same setup you just had, and record the readings you get. Since it is a new part, it should provide the correct readings. I say, SHOULD. It could be the wrong part in the correct box (happens more than you might think), or just altogether the incorrect part. Probably not, but you can’t be too careful. That’s why you should test it as soon as you can, and why it’s a good idea to take the old part with you to the parts store to compare (if that’s where you’re getting it).

If you get the same readings as the other one, that could mean...? (Part is actually okay, and there is something else wrong...or, it’s the wrong part).

Recall the philosophical premise known as “Occam’s Razor”—The simplest answer is often the most correct one.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#34
Yes the setup works great. Got the idea from you about the "helping hands". Other than that in a pot of boiling water and the multimeter just a couple wires with alligator clips on either end. Picked them up at a surplus store here and I can't even tell you how many times I've used those things.
I will test the new part as suggested. I might shoot it as a comparison with the old part in a hopefully short concise video for newbies in the future.
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#35
According the girl at the parts counter at Ford, Ford doesn't make that part anymore.
Anyone else run into this?
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#36
(08-04-2020, 06:37 PM)Rob H Wrote: According the girl at the parts counter at Ford, Ford doesn't make that part anymore.
Anyone else run into this?

You can get the Motorcraft at Rock Auto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...83&jsn=589

Used to be DY681 now DY1145
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#37
(08-05-2020, 12:30 AM)JT Wrote:
(08-04-2020, 06:37 PM)Rob H Wrote: According the girl at the parts counter at Ford, Ford doesn't make that part anymore.
Anyone else run into this?

You can get the Motorcraft at Rock Auto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...83&jsn=589

Used to be DY681 now DY1145

Thanks, I will see first if the local parts stores can get me one. I keep forgetting that Amazon even sells car parts here now, just checked and they have this same one. Looks like you have to snip out your old electrical connector and use one that comes with this sensor, probably not a big deal I guess.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#38
(08-04-2020, 04:26 PM)Rob H Wrote: Yes the setup works great. Got the idea from you about the "helping hands". Other than that in a pot of boiling water and the multimeter just a couple wires with alligator clips on either end. Picked them up at a surplus store here and I can't even tell you how many times I've used those things.
I will test the new part as suggested. I might shoot it as a comparison with the old part in a hopefully short concise video for newbies in the future.

I know what you mean about the leads with alligator clips. I purchased an alligator clip assortment with different sizes, as well as some 18 gauge wire in both black and red, and made up several sets. Very handy.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#39
I don't know how it is for my US friends, but apparently around here none of the parts places can get Motorcraft brand ANYTHING. They all say the same thing, I have to get that through Ford, they only get aftermarket.
Ford says they don't have it.
So while I impatiently wait for the part to come from Rock Auto, sometime next week I am wondering about a few things.
I wonder, would this part have been doing a poor job for the last little bit until it got so bad that it wouldn't even turn my fans on? Or is it a sudden death?
Makes me wonder if, as Jeff said, it helps the computer determine air/fuel mixture....
Would my car have been running hotter? Would my air fuel ratio been off?
I'll be happy just to have the car running as good as before. But if I get better gas mileage and the car runs at a better temp that would be a bonus.
The car was running great already, though was a pig on gas.
Also, is that same sensor responsible for delivering the signal to the dash guage? It was the guage that told me the car was too hot, if not for that I wouldn't have even known I had a problem.
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#40
(08-06-2020, 01:37 AM)Rob H Wrote: I don't know how it is for my US friends, but apparently around here none of the parts places can get Motorcraft brand ANYTHING. They all say the same thing, I have to get that through Ford, they only get aftermarket.
Ford says they don't have it.
So while I impatiently wait for the part to come from Rock Auto, sometime next week I am wondering about a few things.
I wonder, would this part have been doing a poor job for the last little bit until it got so bad that it wouldn't even turn my fans on? Or is it a sudden death?
Makes me wonder if, as Jeff said, it helps the computer determine air/fuel mixture....
Would my car have been running hotter? Would my air fuel ratio been off?
I'll be happy just to have the car running as good as before. But if I get better gas mileage and the car runs at a better temp that would be a bonus.
The car was running great already, though was a pig on gas.
Also, is that same sensor responsible for delivering the signal to the dash guage? It was the guage that told me the car was too hot, if not for that I wouldn't have even known I had a problem.


The temperature gauge has a sensor further down the engine on the same side and is not shared with this sensor you're currently working with.

Yes, the temperature sensor for the EEC does help the computer determine the A/F mixture but it's also a feedback system using the o2 sensor that helps correct the a/f mixture. The temperature sensor tells the EEC the temperature so it can calculate a base A/F mixture, determine when cooling fans need on, sets idle speed, etc.
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