North American Turbocoupe Organization



Dash gauges quit working
vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#31
I replied earlier but was confused on which connector you were looking for (ignition or instrument cluster)...  I had the same problem with the ignition switch, you can see where yours was starting to arc/short on those two burnt terminals.  That is quite common and I replaced both the ignition switch and the ignition wire harness connector.  There is a kit that includes the connector and several short wires with the correct terminal ends to insert into the new connector.  I replaced (spliced) the wires that went to the burned terminals and just swapped the rest... the connector itself overheats and the wires loosen up causing more issues so you at least want to use a new connector.

Ignition Connector

Can't help on the instrument cluster... I had similar issues (gauges not working/no AC etc...) and the problem was the ignition switch.
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!! (SOLD)
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
Reply

MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#32
(06-27-2020, 11:21 PM)vegas_ss Wrote: I replied earlier but was confused on which connector you were looking for (ignition or instrument cluster)...  I had the same problem with the ignition switch, you can see where yours was starting to arc/short on those two burnt terminals.  That is quite common and I replaced both the ignition switch and the ignition wire harness connector.  There is a kit that includes the connector and several short wires with the correct terminal ends to insert into the new connector.  I replaced (spliced) the wires that went to the burned terminals and just swapped the rest... the connector itself overheats and the wires loosen up causing more issues so you at least want to use a new connector.

Ignition Connector

Can't help on the instrument cluster... I had similar issues (gauges not working/no AC etc...) and the problem was the ignition switch.

I got the ignition switch and the connector already in my cart with Rock Auto.

I need the instrument cluster more.  Fortunately I found a 88 in Minnesota that I may call about for parts.
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
Reply

anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#33
(06-28-2020, 11:24 PM)MN88TurboCoupe Wrote:
(06-27-2020, 11:21 PM)vegas_ss Wrote: I replied earlier but was confused on which connector you were looking for (ignition or instrument cluster)...  I had the same problem with the ignition switch, you can see where yours was starting to arc/short on those two burnt terminals.  That is quite common and I replaced both the ignition switch and the ignition wire harness connector.  There is a kit that includes the connector and several short wires with the correct terminal ends to insert into the new connector.  I replaced (spliced) the wires that went to the burned terminals and just swapped the rest... the connector itself overheats and the wires loosen up causing more issues so you at least want to use a new connector.

Ignition Connector

Can't help on the instrument cluster... I had similar issues (gauges not working/no AC etc...) and the problem was the ignition switch.

I got the ignition switch and the connector already in my cart with Rock Auto.

I need the instrument cluster more.  Fortunately I found a 88 in Minnesota that I may call about for parts.

I was going through an average of one of those a year. Some results are yours—burned connector and switch. As they are so rare, I purchased a half dozen from Advanced Auto Parts. A gentleman there spent an hour going through a parts book looking for one like mine. The standard ones for Thunderbirds don’t have the extra terminals that the Turbo Coupes do.

Then: I did Jeff’s procedure for adding a relay to the fog lamp circuit. I searched for a half hour all over this Forum and could not find that same article, but this one is almost the same, just includes relays for the headlamps as well (which I did not do). It eliminates the 30 amps that go through that circuit; instead the voltage actuated by that connection activates a relay, and IT bears the brunt of the 30 amp load! It was genius.

(I have a printout of Jeff’s original article for just the fog lamps that I can scan and email if you wish.)

I made the change in 2014. Since then I have not had ANY issues with the ignition switch or its connector—both are same as installed with no melted or burned connections.

I STRONGLY urge you do the same! Otherwise you’re just going to keep melting and burning switches and connectors.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
Reply

vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#34
(06-29-2020, 12:22 AM)anasazi4st Wrote: I was going through an average of one of those a year. Some results are yours—burned connector and switch. As they are so rare, I purchased a half dozen from Advanced Auto Parts. A gentleman there spent an hour going through a parts book looking for one like mine. The standard ones for Thunderbirds don’t have the extra terminals that the Turbo Coupes do.

Then: I did Jeff’s procedure for adding a relay to the fog lamp circuit. I searched for a half hour all over this Forum and could not find that same article, but this one is almost the same, just includes relays for the headlamps as well (which I did not do). It eliminates the 30 amps that go through that circuit; instead the voltage actuated by that connection activates a relay, and IT bears the brunt of the 30 amp load! It was genius.

(I have a printout of Jeff’s original article for just the fog lamps that I can scan and email if you wish.)

I made the change in 2014. Since then I have not had ANY issues with the ignition switch or its connector—both are same as installed with no melted or burned connections.

I STRONGLY urge you do the same! Otherwise you’re just going to keep melting and burning switches and connectors.

I did the headlight relay but not the fog lamps... I don't think the headlight circuit runs through the ignition switch but perhaps the fog lights do?  Haven't had any more issues for the past 4 or 5 years though.  I don't follow your comment regarding extra terminals... please elaborate!
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!! (SOLD)
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
Reply

anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#35
I apologize for the inaccuracy, you have the correct 11-pin connector.

In looking at my schematic I see the burned areas coincide with the A2 accessory, circuit 687. I don’t have my manuals nearby right now, but I would bet that is the Fog Lamp circuitry.

I really wish I could have found Jeff’s excellent article. It would have made things SOOO much clearer. Oh well.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
Reply

anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#36
Well, thanks to Mikey97D we now have the link to the old FAQs, which include Jeff’s instructions to Rewire the Fog Lights .  Scroll down, as the topics are only separated as paragraphs. Here is the URL: https://turbotbird.com/old/faqs/#Rewire_Fog_Lights

If you are still curious on the procedure.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
Reply

Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#37
Mikey97, Thank you for getting the old FAQ back up and running.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
Reply

Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#38
Lots of great stuff to be found in the old nato section, i have two links in my browser, one for modern turbotbird.com and one for the old one. I had been looking for a while for the article regarding replacing the stereo that was mentioned many times, but I had a hard time finding. Its right there in the "old" section
Reply

MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#39
I installed the new parts and nada. Nothing.
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
Reply

anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#40
(07-07-2020, 02:00 AM)MN88TurboCoupe Wrote: I installed the new parts and nada.  Nothing.

Wow. I don’t get it. So, just to recap: your speedometer and tachometer operate correctly, but you have no working gauges? Fuel, Temp, Oil Pressure and Amps have no readings? But all your warning lights on the dash work (Brake, ABS, CEL, high beam, turn signals, etc?).

This is a complete guess, but I wonder if there is something wrong with the EEC-IV computer...? Again, a guess. I’m not sure what it might have to do with all of this.

i would ask if you tested the terminals at any of the gauges for voltage, but the likelihood of ALL of them being damaged/inoperative seems remote, unless there was a surge through the IVR that somehow damaged them.

You’re probably pretty fed up with all this by now...but if it were me I would remove the gauges from the instrument panel and test each one for operation. Then, I would test each of the connectors in the IP circuit, where each gauge attaches.

There’s an easier way to do that. First, trace each gauge to its corresponding contact on the male ribbon cable (While it’s attached/connected) and note that. Now, check the continuity from the IP female ribbon circuit connector on the IP to the gauge. Finally turn on the ignition (or start the car) and measure the voltage from each gauge’s connector on the male ribbon connector. This is the same as trying to hold up the IP whilst the ribbon connector is attached to take these current measurements, which doesn’t sound like much fun. Especially considering how delicate that connector is.

What you want here are zeroes across the board, no voltage, or else there is another issue.

Please let us know what you find.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB