North American Turbocoupe Organization

castrol synthetic
forrest Offline
I purchased some oil so i can change the oil tomorrow. auto zone recommended the castrol synthetic 10 w 40. so that is what i purchased. I do not know what the other owner used . crude oil for all i know. thats what it looked like. I changed the oil when i firs got her. with pennz 10 w 30 after after around a 1000 miles the oil is already black and sludgy looking. a friend of mine at work said to use a product called c foam befor i change the oil. this is supposed to clean the sludge and other crud out of the engine. have you heard of it. also will the synth oil cause my car to leak oil. It dont leak right now. thanks,
forrest of nc

Quote: 88tc,metalic red, raven int. loaded except leather, has moon roof, but not powered. abused by previous owner, so I just need to get her running right before the good stuff. forrest of north carolina.
Quote: 88tc,metalic red, raven int. loaded except leather, has sun roof, k&n direct to vam for now. abused by previous owner, so I just need to get her running right before the good stuff. new timing belt, what a pita that was. forrest of north carolina.

GaryS#2 Offline
Posting Freak
I have 180,ooo something km on my TC and switched to synthetic and have had no leaks. I doubt the other owners ever used syntec but I switched, no probs.
I would hesitate to put any additive to loosen sludge though. That could cause more problems if something got dislodged and blocked an oil passage or something.
Just keep changing the oil for now.
Grocery Getter/Rice Cooker.

Pete D Offline
I would put regular oil in it this time and run that for 500-1000 miles and then change it again and use the synth. My daily driver suffered from a lack of regular oil changes when I first got it and I had to do a couple of "quick" oil changes in it to get the dirt out. It's fine now and runs 3K between changes with no problem.

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shiftless Offline
sea foam is the best stuff ever made! i'm not exaggerating. you can usually find it in a white can at your local mom-and-pop auto parts store. they sell the spray version and the liquid version. the liquid is the stuff you pour into your gas/oil to clean up all the oil sludge and stabilize the fuel/remove carbon deposits, and the spray is the stuff you degrease parts with, loosen rusted bolts, clean your throttle body and injectors, spray into engine for storage, rescue an old engine that hasn't run in a decade, etc. it's highly effective at doing ALL of this, you'll be amazed at how well it works! i could go on and on about the stuff, but everyone should go to the parts store and get a can of it. it costs $5 a can but you'll never go back to Liquid Wrench, WD40, brake cleaner, or anything else again!

oh, btw while we're on the subject, a GREAT product for heavy degreasing jobs is Greased Lightning, the version that comes in the black spray bottle at Auto Zone and is designed for degreasing. i cleaned up my T5 using that stuff and a scrub brush, and it didn't take long to clean that grease-coated thing back to brand new again!

Nate K Offline
Posting Freak
forrest... I too suggest starting off by using regular 10w30 oil for 2 oil and filter changes spaced about 1000 to 1500 miles apart. This will help collect all the old oil and contaminents that are in the engine currently and the cost of 2 reg oil and filter changes will be minimal.

I would also suggest NOT using any kind of additives/cleaners to loosen or clean internally. All that is doing is just asking for major troubles if/when the stuff does loosen up and then blocks oil passages or your filter. Using fuel system cleaner is fine (actually good idea occassionally), but do not bother with the internal engine cleaners.

After that, it's highly recommended to run synthetic oil. I believe the book recommends 10w30 for winter/normal driving, however alot of us run different weights for different climates.

Which brand of syn oil is up to you really. I think the majority of us use Mobil 1 Synthetic.

Personally I run Mobil 1 Synthetic and change every 5,000 miles:
10w30 winter months
15w50 summer months

The key to TC engine longevity is regular oil and filter changes. Turbos actually cook the oil due to the excessive heat, this in turn cause deposits and what's called "cooking".

Lastly my 2 cents about oil filters. I used to be a Fram user years ago until I saw cut-aways of different brand filters, and read numerous reports about people having Fram filters fall apart. I will not use Fram again. I prefer Puralator's or WIX, both are great filters.
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Cars I wish I still owned:
69 Coronet 440
70 Torino 351C
79 Bronco 351M/400 on 35's
79 Trans Am 403 (6.6L)
88 Cougar XR7 5.0L
93 F150 Flareside Mark III Custom 5.0L

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