2.3T running terrible when warm...

I watched your video....that is some serious bucking. Nothing as bad as what I dealt with (and my wires were BURNT).

The only other thing I can think of that will give you those exact symptoms is a really bad intake leak. Possibly a leak in your IC or vacuum lines. If a vacuum line splits, it will be hard to see the hole, and it can intermittently seal itself...

I only mention an intake leak, because I don't know how many times I've blown my charge pipes off and it gave me the exact same problem.
Your problem might be as small as a hole in the IC or vacuum lines.


time to start spraying ether everywhere

I can't give you any more info or suggestions than these guys have so far, but I just wanted to give you some props on your video. It's definitely helpful and I liked the fact that you explained things along the way and that it wasn't 20 seconds long.

Thanks B! Since I'm asking for help I try to be as descriptive as I can. If a video helps, I'll take one.

Thanks for the suggestions guys! I'm off work tomorrow so I'll go though them all. One thing I noticed is the wideband goes LEAN when the car acts up. Though the fuel pressure is good, could it be the injectors? I honestly don't know.

-Mike

Fuel pressure should be 40 with no vacuum line connected. But i do not think its your issue. Sounds like SPARK. Is your ignition system STOCK?? Coil wires cap rotor ETC. I have actually run higher pressures than 40 Psi on fuel with good results on my modified car. But the proper setting is 40 with hose disconnected. No need to plug vacuum line . But it wont hurt. The idle will come up because of a vacuum leak Good luck. Did you check the back pressure in the exhaust. Cat clogged etc. Normally a clogged cat will hinder higher speed performance but anything is possible. Check all the basics again including compression and leaks Good luck

Originally posted by Paulie:
Fuel pressure should be 40 with no vacuum line connected. But i do not think its your issue. Sounds like SPARK. Is your ignition system STOCK?? Coil wires cap rotor ETC. I have actually run higher pressures than 40 Psi on fuel with good results on my modified car. But the proper setting is 40 with hose disconnected. No need to plug vacuum line . But it wont hurt. The idle will come up because of a vacuum leak Good luck. Did you check the back pressure in the exhaust. Cat clogged etc. Normally a clogged cat will hinder higher speed performance but anything is possible. Check all the basics again including compression and leaks Good luck

I checked most of that. All good. I adjusted the FP and it's sitting at 29psi with the vac on.

Here's a new set of video's I took:
Part 1:
http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a87/pay...G_0524.mp4

Part 2 (just so I know I'm not crazy):
http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a87/pay...G_0525.mp4

I think it's running good now
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a87/pay...G_0526.jpg

I let it cool down then took it for a ride see how it was. It's back to running like crap. Like I said in the video's. I'm still going to get motorcraft parts on the car this week.

Ok, so it's got new motorcraft plug's, wires, cap and rotor... and it still runs like crap warm. It's bucking/stumbling all over the rev range.

I've checked:
- TPS (fine, within spec)
- Compression (fine, all pulled within 10% of 140psi)
- VAM (fine, within spec)
- Fuel pressure ( 30psi with vac line ON at idle, 40psi with line OFF)
- Firing order/wires is correct.
- NO vac/boost leaks (all clamps are tight and couplers good)

I'm either thinking it's the TFI module OR the PIP in the dizzy. Another option is the timing is not at 10 degree's with the spout out and/or the ECT sensor is bad.

I'm not getting any codes besides those 4 either.

I really wish I had a fresh set of eyes take a look at this thing. I honestly need it on the road asap.

-Mike

I had an issue with mine like a year ago that was vaguely similar to your issue, though not nearly as bad. I just ended up swapping the whole dizzy, including the TFI and PIP, and it cleared right up. Not saying this will be the case with your problem, but your TFI module is at least suspect.

I don't know anything about 5.0's... Does yours have a TFI module you could swap for testing purposes?

Well replace the PIP and TFI and go from their. The 5.0 has the same part numbers as the 4 cylinder DIZZY for those two parts. Change them out and go from their. I always change them together . And i never assume they are good if tested off the car. Good Luck.