North American Turbocoupe Organization



Questions Questions... Power Seats First
Tedybear315 Offline
Junior Member
#1
I was going to dump my questions into one thread, but that might get confusing.

Power Seats..

We had a devil of a time getting the seats out of our 1988 Turbo Coupe today.  Passenger seat finally relented and slides forward and back decent.  But we removed it to fully clean EVERYTHING sense the mouse decided to have a duplex  in the car.

In regards to the drivers power seat.  Motor is running okay for all features.  We had to do some hammer time in order to get the seat to move forward enough to get the bolts to remove the seat.  (We wound up unbolting the seat from the rail, and then slamming the right lower rail to get the motor to move the seat rails forward.

Totally rusted Sad   So it's on the bench and it's soaking in fluid film for the next few days to see if it frees up.  If that works,  going to clean rails with cleaner and then apply a good coating of bearing grease to the rails and gear teeth.

So the question you might be wondering?

On our 1987 Donor car.  It has both power seats, and both did work when we purchased it.  I didn't see the harness at the top of our '88 for the controls-  But we do have the donor car with harness, etc...  Wondering if it was possible to install the setup and have both power seats.

Also the tilt bit when someone gets in and out of the back.  You can pull the seat back forward quite a distance!  I'm concerned that if an accident happened, or hitting the brakes hard it might cause the driver to pitch forward into the wheel.  The seats are on the work bench for now, and easy to get to all the parts.

Thanks!  I'll do my other posts in their own  headings.

S-
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#2
Tedy,
OK, so what I am gathering here is that your parts car has both front seats that are power and your good one only has the power drivers seat and you want to install power both in your good car but are not seeing the harness. Correct? I would venture to say that the harness plug is in your good car, probably buried down in the console. I would take apart the parts car console to see what it looks like under there, maybe see if there is a splice connection made somewhere, then it would just be a plug and play.
Also, you are soaking the original seat track from your good car to loosen up, why not just use the seat track from the parts car instead?
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Tedybear315 Offline
Junior Member
#3
(03-02-2020, 12:00 AM)Kuch Wrote: Tedy,
OK, so what I am gathering here is that your parts car has both front seats that are power and your good one only has the power drivers seat and you want to install power both in your good car but are not seeing the harness. Correct? I would venture to say that the harness plug is in your good car, probably buried down in the console. I would take apart the parts car console to see what it looks like under there, maybe see if there is a splice connection made somewhere, then it would just be a plug and play.
Also, you are soaking the original seat track from your good car to loosen up, why not just use the seat track from the parts car instead?


Good question  LOL!

The donor car has nothing left under the hood for wiring.  And the power seats-- all the way back when it was parked.  So there's no way to supply any power to either seat at the moment to kick the seats forward to access the bolts.  However we might be able to jury rig something up so we can scoot things around.  Problem of course is-  We've got slammed with another foot of snow, and the donor car's under a tarp...under the snow Sad  

I looked at the plug under the seat of the '88.  It has 3 pins.  I would presume 2 wires for the lumbar pump...And the 3rd wire I'm not sure about.  Inside the '88's control panel area there isn't a plug assembly for the passenger power seat.  But as you correctly mentioned, it could be buried.

Plans are for Tuesday to see about the parking brake pedal assembly.  Likely I'll need to start pulling interior parts out of the '87 to correct that.  Wouldn't be that huge a deal to dive more into it.  Soaking the assembly as "Murphy" is on my rear end like a diaper.  And need to ensure a back up plan.

S-
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#4
OK gotcha, the snow is a pain for sure and makes things 10x worse to work with, I get the same here in Central NY. If you cannot hotwire the power seat controls with a battery or a 12v power pack to move them forward, then you would have to get comfortable under the seat with a wrench and give it a quarter turn at a time. Never fun, but it can work. I would try to hotwire the seats from the console switch connections, basically just using a ground wire and one for hot and try each pin to see which one moves the seat. Let us know how it works out.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Tedybear315 Offline
Junior Member
#5
(03-02-2020, 07:04 PM)Kuch Wrote: OK gotcha, the snow is a pain for sure and makes things 10x worse to work with, I get the same here in Central NY. If you cannot hotwire the power seat controls with a battery or a 12v power pack to move them forward, then you would have to get comfortable under the seat with a wrench and give it a quarter turn at a time. Never fun, but it can work. I would try to hotwire the seats from the console switch connections, basically just using a ground wire and one for hot and try each pin to see which one moves the seat. Let us know how it works out.


Well it didn't like the jumper action.  The ol' girl is temperamental.  I wound up as you said... "Getting Comfortable"  And of course the seat rails where right above the rear retaining nuts.  

I noted which motor drive cable runs the F/B action.  Removed the cable and hooked up one end to the gear box..and the other end to my power drill......

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......  

That moved it!!

I also greased the cable with the fluid film, reinserted it.  It tested okay in the '88 car.  So it's awaiting installation after we get the parking brake pedal assembly done.  

Where about in Central NY are you?  Currently the car is up in an ol' barn type space that we're using for the long term repair projects.  It's located in Oswego, NY.

I would have tried to get the passenger seat out of the donor car- as well to see if I could try and use the motor/wiring/etc... in the '88 one that's hopefully going on the road in April.  Got smacked with a nice rain storm about 2hrs in...So I put the tarp back onto the '87.....And good lord it's about 8" of pure mud up there.

Glad my Subaru's got the all wheel drive, and still has the studded snow tires on it.  I miss my Bronco on days like this.  Lock in the 4wd low range and go to town!

S-
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#6
Tedybear315 Wrote:
Kuch Wrote:OK gotcha, the snow is a pain for sure and makes things 10x worse to work with, I get the same here in Central NY. If you cannot hotwire the power seat controls with a battery or a 12v power pack to move them forward, then you would have to get comfortable under the seat with a wrench and give it a quarter turn at a time. Never fun, but it can work. I would try to hotwire the seats from the console switch connections, basically just using a ground wire and one for hot and try each pin to see which one moves the seat. Let us know how it works out.


Well it didn't like the jumper action.  The ol' girl is temperamental.  I wound up as you said... "Getting Comfortable"  And of course the seat rails where right above the rear retaining nuts.  

I noted which motor drive cable runs the F/B action.  Removed the cable and hooked up one end to the gear box..and the other end to my power drill......

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......  

That moved it!!

I also greased the cable with the fluid film, reinserted it.  It tested okay in the '88 car.  So it's awaiting installation after we get the parking brake pedal assembly done.  

Where about in Central NY are you?  Currently the car is up in an ol' barn type space that we're using for the long term repair projects.  It's located in Oswego, NY.

I would have tried to get the passenger seat out of the donor car- as well to see if I could try and use the motor/wiring/etc... in the '88 one that's hopefully going on the road in April.  Got smacked with a nice rain storm about 2hrs in...So I put the tarp back onto the '87.....And good lord it's about 8" of pure mud up there.

Glad my Subaru's got the all wheel drive, and still has the studded snow tires on it.  I miss my Bronco on days like this.  Lock in the 4wd low range and go to town!

S-
Tedy, nice work on the drill. I love it when you find something oddball to work like that. I live just east of Syracuse in Manlius and Oswego is not go far north of here. I have been looking for a good front bumper for my 88 TC as someone cut out the front air damn spoiler mount and the fins. Does your parts car have a good bumper?
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Tedybear315 Offline
Junior Member
#7
(03-04-2020, 05:11 PM)Kuch Wrote:
Tedybear315 Wrote:
Kuch Wrote:OK gotcha, the snow is a pain for sure and makes things 10x worse to work with, I get the same here in Central NY. If you cannot hotwire the power seat controls with a battery or a 12v power pack to move them forward, then you would have to get comfortable under the seat with a wrench and give it a quarter turn at a time. Never fun, but it can work. I would try to hotwire the seats from the console switch connections, basically just using a ground wire and one for hot and try each pin to see which one moves the seat. Let us know how it works out.


Well it didn't like the jumper action.  The ol' girl is temperamental.  I wound up as you said... "Getting Comfortable"  And of course the seat rails where right above the rear retaining nuts.  

I noted which motor drive cable runs the F/B action.  Removed the cable and hooked up one end to the gear box..and the other end to my power drill......

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee......  

That moved it!!

I also greased the cable with the fluid film, reinserted it.  It tested okay in the '88 car.  So it's awaiting installation after we get the parking brake pedal assembly done.  

Where about in Central NY are you?  Currently the car is up in an ol' barn type space that we're using for the long term repair projects.  It's located in Oswego, NY.

I would have tried to get the passenger seat out of the donor car- as well to see if I could try and use the motor/wiring/etc... in the '88 one that's hopefully going on the road in April.  Got smacked with a nice rain storm about 2hrs in...So I put the tarp back onto the '87.....And good lord it's about 8" of pure mud up there.

Glad my Subaru's got the all wheel drive, and still has the studded snow tires on it.  I miss my Bronco on days like this.  Lock in the 4wd low range and go to town!

S-
Tedy, nice work on the drill. I love it when you find something oddball to work like that. I live just east of Syracuse in Manlius and Oswego is not go far north of here. I have been looking for a good front bumper for my 88 TC as someone cut out the front air damn spoiler mount and the fins. Does your parts car have a good bumper?

Front bumper/nose section is in fair (no where near 'new') condition  It's a white one.  It has some cracks where it folds under the cars bumper reinforcement area and bolts one to to the chassis.  That can likely be fixed with some body shop  "plastic metal".

I think we've talked before on FaceBook's T-Bird group one or twice.  I seem to remember a user needing a front nose/bumper, and he was local to my area.  (Steve B. would be my user name)

Once we get the '88 on the road, the wife and I will be pulling other parts off the donor car before it goes to the 'yard'.    We 100% need the headlights and tail lights.  The left headlight on the '88 has about an inch of some mystery blue liquid in it.  They are badly sun-washed.  The '87 donor's look sealed, but need resurfacing that we'll do later on.  Tail lights we usually like to have a spare set on hand-  Those are just about impossible to track down if one gets damaged.

While it's great having a donor car, it's also depressing to know that eventually it's going to be at the crusher.  So we're going to take photos and see what people need once we get ours on the road.  Sadly the nice red interior has a severely sun washed drivers seat, and the dash has 1 or 2 cracks.  It's also got the 'deluxe' package for all the bells and whistles.   The wife is torn between pulling out the deep blue interior on ours and swapping it out for the red.   The red would have 1 advantage.  While the interior is muddy (that can be cleaned)  It doesn't have the severe combination "Swamp Thing/Mouse Piss" smell that  our '88 has.  Once we get the power seats sorted out, yeah we're going with the passenger power seats!  Once we're done with the interior-  Before the seats go back in, we have a small carpet shampoo machine that we will unleash on it.  Vacuuming it out helped a lot!  But the smell still lingers.  Of course also pulling a mummy-mouse out from under the seat was a treat!  (yuck)

That's enough rambling on for now.   I'll do a for sale thread in the near future once we get the '88 sorted.

Thanks again for all the sage advice!  I'll likely need more as I still need to verify the turbo is functional, and the tach is dead.  (Going to swap tach's from the donor car first)

S-
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