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I am in fairly desperate need of some advice.
A week ago I completed the 130 amp 3G Alternator upgrade. I had wanted to do this for a while—a new job has me driving home an hour after dark, and with the headlamps on (although the lighting system is 99% LEDs), the EATC on 72 degrees (it’s ONLY around 105 by then [!!]) and the various other systems at work, I was concerned that the stock one was eventually going to fail (I’ve had this one since around 2004). (Backstory: when I first got the car I was going through a battery a year—just the usual parts store crap—and an alternator every two or three; oh, and an ignition switch about the same. Well, Jeff’s Headlamp Relay upgrade solved most of those issues, as well as a good battery [like a DieHard]—but again, I haven’t driven the car regularly at night in at least 20 years).
I got it from Pa Performance—enough others on here had done the same so I wasn’t in the mood to price shop, just get what’s recommended. I was chatting online with Customer Service and also ordered the Premium Long Wire, which after it arrived I could see it was way TOO long—got the Short one instead. They had kind of freaked me out when I was told the 130 would burn right through a 10 gauge wire—DOH!—even though I tried to explain that I was upgrading TWO OTHER 10 gauge wires as well, which should cover the extra amperage. So not wishing to take a chance I used that wire (Cable?!) with its 200amp fuse for the Starter Relay to Alternator Output connection.
I followed Jeff’s Tech Article pretty much to the letter—except for that heavier gauge PaPerformance connection. When I was all done—and with fire extinguisher handy (I told you they had kind of freaked me out!), I reconnected the battery and started it up. All good—nothing was overly hot or even warm (although everything is warm when it’s still 95 at 5 am!), voltage started out at around 14.45, eventually came down to 14.20. Everything was powered on to draw up the load. Great job! I’d have a beer if it wasn’t almost dawn.
ONLY—there is no ammeter. Nothing. Right on the line, no charge or discharge, which usually shows a slight charge.This morning I stuck probes in the Red/Orange wire—one of two spliced (#S261) by the green wire with the 14 gauge fusible link, at one end of the yellow shunt wire; and the Yellow/Light Green one (by the other end of the yellow shunt wire, splice #S262). According to the EVTM, these are the wires that connect to the ammeter. There is continuity, so nothing is fried there. I started the car and measured the voltage it was getting—with the MM set at 20 and the lights on: 0.02. Lights off: 0.01. Now, I have never tested the ammeter this way before, so I don’t know what that number is supposed to be—but that obviously seems very low to me.
Here is what I have: red 10 gauge wire spliced into the start of the 37 Yellow shunt wire (splice #261) to Alternator Output screw; red 10 gauge wire running from the ORIGINAL Alternator output wire (38 Black/Orange, which is at the OTHER end, splice #262) to the Alternator Output screw; 4 gauge red PaPerformance cable (with fuse) running from Alternator Output screw to Battery side of the Starter Relay (on the driver’s fender).
There are total of 6 wires that attach to that connection; amongst them the Viper alarm, etc.
I also replaced the Regulator plug, as mine was a bit corroded and nasty. There are three wires that form that connector: White, Yellow, and Green. The white Stator wire from the included Upgrade kit attaches to the White wire, in the center; the Yellow/White wire from the original plug attaches to the Yellow wire; and lastly the Light Green/Red wire from the original plug attaches to the Green one.
That’s it. I can’t understand why it doesn’t work! This is particularly disturbing in that, with the heat settling in and the Monsoons about to start—with nasty humidity—I have to start this troubleshooting work at around dawn and then quit after only an hour or two (once the temps start to rise), and put it aside until the next morning.
I know that the scientific and philosophical rule known as Occam’s Razor states that the simplest solution is often the most obvious. I’ve tried replacing the heavy 4 gauge cable with the one Jeff suggests we make (with a 175 amp fuse)—it didn’t help, and now the Red wire spliced with the Black/Orange former Output wire seems to get a bit warmer. So I put it back.
In various posts/clarifications Jeff has suggested splicing one Output wire (#1) to one end of the yellow Shunt wire, and the other (#2) to the OTHER end. I am tempted to try this, but that should not matter, as the Black/Orange wire that is spliced to #2 has continuity as is PART OF THE SAME SPLICE (#262) as the yellow Shunt wire. How could that make a difference?
What are your thoughts? Is there something obviously (or not so) wrong with what I’m doing? Here is a diagram I drew up (it’s okay to download it, apparently the only way I can post it):
https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.com/sc...gabuc&dl=0
I had carefully planned any Upgrade or Modification work for way before the heat started, but this idea seemed like a good one so I went ahead with it. And yes, I could go with an Aftermarket gauge, as I know the stock one is often incorrect. But I can’t get over the feeling that this doesn’t work and it’s part of a larger problem that will soon show itself, and hopefully not with flames and smoke. 
Any suggestions would probably be most helpful. Thanks in advance.
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NO AMMETER!
Is it possible to convert Analog cluster to Digital?