Just got my car going. I installed a new pilot bearing, and a SPEC stage III kit (clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing) and a new clutch fork and bearing collar. And a new T-5 which was said to be in good shape by a guy I know who works on manual trannies for a living. Also a new flywheel. The car feels excellent, even though I didn't step on it. It just feels excellent because I've been driving a minivan for a month
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Anyway, shifts great. Just won't go into reverse. The car will be at a dead standstill @ 1000 RPMs and reverse won't engage, it just grinds. I'm thinking the slave cylinder. Could this be it?
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Ryan Harris
1988 TC 5 speed, all options including sunroof. Currently installing: Walbro 255 LPH HP, Star stage III, Kirban AFPR, 3" DP to 2.5" duals, bypassed cat, Magnaflow mufflers
I'm not sure of the exact cause, however I think it has something to do with reverse not being syncronized. It's a very common problem on _MANY_ cars, if the following works:
After coming to a complete stop and pushing in the clutch, put it into any other gear, then into reverse.
Hope that helps.
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-asi
1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, gillis@17, timing @ 8 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)
[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
Thanks for the reply Asimov, I will be sure to try that first thing tomorrow
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Ryan
After further consideration, I thought I should mention that when I said to clutch it and put it in another gear first then into reverse, don't let the clutch out inbetween the two.
I also have trouble with mine going into reverse. Sometimes going to another gear first (as noted) works.
What has always worked for me was to pull it toward reverse, the slowly start letting the clutch out. Somewhere in there it will fdrop right in without grindin. As was boted, Its not syncronized.
Bob Myers
that is exatcly how i get mine in reverse when it dosent go in right away....slowly let oof the clutch untill you can feel the gears match up....
thats what i have to do with mine. I'm not sure why, i think it might be the pilot bearing, it makes some sketchy noises when i start gettin the RPMs up. But yeah, i shift it into 5th first, then with the clutch still in, i throw it into reverse. Works for me, i've driven a few cars that this works on.
Common characteristic of the T5 tranny. I usually put it up inth 5th gear, and then slowly into reverse. Sometimes I have to repeat a second time to get it to engage reverse smoothly.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
It would probably be easier on the tranny to use the method I described above, the "let the clutch out till it catches" method means that the very thinest pieces of teeth are catching a considerable amount of force when it engages.
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-asi
1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, gillis@17, timing @ 8 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)
[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
Your clutch is new and therefore it's thicker and "fuzzyer" that it should be and it's dragging..When it wears down it should be ok.
Like they said put it in a syncronized gear then put in reverse..