So I went out for a cruise this morning and everything was fine. I get back into town and as I'm turning a corner I go to shift and I completely lose my clutch pedal. There's absolutely no force when I press on it and consequently, I can't shift gears because of it. Originally I thought a clutch cable snapped but I didn't hear anything and when I looked under the car, clutch fluid was steadily dripping from the slave cylinder dust cover. I'm assuming my slave cylinder is shot. The clutch fluid reservoir was completely empty when I looked into it. I tried adding more fluid but as I pushed the clutch pedal in, it just leaked out. I'm going to order a new slave cylinder this week and replace it next weekend. Is there anything special I should pay attention to? The job seems easy enough according to the Chilton manuals. I know the rod should travel a minimum of .53" when the clutch pedal is depressed. How can I adjust it if it isn't? And is there any special way to bleed the clutch system (like a bleed nipple, etc) or just add fluid and pump clutch to get bubbles out? I apologize in advance because I haven't checked the tech articles yet. I'm sure all these questions have been answered at some point or another. Thanks everyone
There is no adjustment for the distance the slaves rod moves.
Bleeding is a PITA. The new slave should have a bleeder screw of some type. Depending on the replacement, it my be like a brake bleeder screw or like the OEM threaded plug with a hex drive. Bleed it as you would bleed brakes.
Jeff K Wrote:There is no adjustment for the distance the slaves rod moves.
Bleeding is a PITA. The new slave should have a bleeder screw of some type. Depending on the replacement, it my be like a brake bleeder screw or like the OEM threaded plug with a hex drive. Bleed it as you would bleed brakes.
Thanks Jeff, in your opinion; does this sound like a slave cylinder issue? And do you have a particular brand you'd recommend for replacement? I was looking on Rockauto and noticed that some of them had different specs
If the line from the master to the slave is not leaking, then it's the slave cylinder.
May be a stupid question but what's the best way to remove the hydraulic hose from the slave cylinder housing? See "A" in the pic.
There is a drift pin holding the hose fitting in place. Drive it out with a blunted nail.
Pete D Wrote:There is a drift pin holding the hose fitting in place. Drive it out with a blunted nail.
That's what I thought; thanks again. I'll report back when I go to swap it out
Bleeding is done easily (in my opinion) by taking the master and slave and tubing out together and hanging it for hand pumping/bleeding, then re-install. There's a screw-loop clamp in the fire wall that can be a little challenging (I work it from the top down in, instead of underneath). For the time it takes to do this and the frustration saved by doing it in place, I felt it was easier... but then again, "easier" is all in the eye of the beholder!
turbo80sdriver Wrote:Bleeding is done easily (in my opinion) by taking the master and slave and tubing out together and hanging it for hand pumping/bleeding, then re-install. There's a screw-loop clamp in the fire wall that can be a little challenging (I work it from the top down in, instead of underneath). For the time it takes to do this and the frustration saved by doing it in place, I felt it was easier... but then again, "easier" is all in the eye of the beholder!
That's not a bad idea. I didn't take out the master cylinder. Lost probably all of the fluid when I swapped the slave cylinder but I bled the system according to the Luk instructions. Clutch pedal pressure seems good and has been working fine since replacement.