North American Turbocoupe Organization

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im looking for reccommendations on where to purchase an aftermarket fuel rail for my stock tc intake
Jason,
Try this; http://bigrmotorsports.com

Chip can help you with a fuel rail.
FYI, I have read of people having interference issues with large-case 3G alternator swapped cars. I haven't read about anyone having an issue with interference with the factory alternator, though.
Just curious why you want an aftermarket rail? Is your stock rail damaged? The stock rail will flow enough fuel to support well over 400 HP.
well its complicated like everything i do lol
i need more fuel and im going to an aeromotive remote mount regulator plus i want aluminum
big r is out of stock
im preparing for the end build so im looking 600 - 800 hp
my regulator is 1-1 boost rise unlike any rail mounted regulator i have found im hopeing this cures my excessive lean condition until
the next wallet flush for this project
any other vendors for the fuel rail ??
FYI, the stock FPR is a 1:1 pressure rise with boost.
Kirban's KIR5005 is 1:1 pressure rise also, is light and reliable.

http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?...m&inmake=0
jason Wrote:any other vendors for the fuel rail ??

Jason,
I was in the same spot a few years ago when I started to acquire parts for my engine. I was able to get a good aftermarket fuel rail from a vendor who is no longer in business. Blank rail is available but you would have to have it machined. A 1 of 1 machine process may be cost prohibited.
When striving for 600+ HP, fuel delivery is paramount and the math supports the theory. Starting at the fuel pump and going forward. My intank pump is a 340 lph Aeromotive unit (barely enough). From there to the front, you need 1/2" line both feed and return. A smaller return line will affect the pressure at the regulator. Also, be aware, the alternator will need to be relocated outboard toward the fenderwell to allow clearance for the regulator. You might also want to attach the regulator to the lower intake. The vibration of a heavy regulator hanging on the end of the rail is a recipe for disaster.
By the way, you'll needs lots of $$$$$.$$ for the job because 600+ is not cheap. Stroker, good rods, aftermarket aluminum head or a professionally prepared iron head, good cam, really good pistons and a turbo to handle over 700 CFM. Ask me how I know!
:pimp:
and that reminds me ...... a stand alone ECU and 80 lb/hr + injectors and big intercooler.

Read this 100 times and hold your wallet at the same time!

thanks jeff k as i learned today my car had the wrong regulator on it or it was internally damaged either way i swapped it out for another one i had and it rises now .
dan i have most of the required mods allready and didnt want to buy a rail mount becouse i have a aeromotive a1000 -6 regulator sitting here my current plans are to add psi so its at a safe afr to drive beat on for now.
im not concerned with alternator clearence and i like an aluminum rail for heat dissapation im going to have to run a rail mount pump for final build for now 255 intank will do
my head flows 215 custom ground comp cam manley valves crowler springs retainers the head is milled 64 cc cumbustion chamber.
the lower end is built ross pistons crowler rods +30 over balanced rotating assy cometic head gasket arp studs in the head and mains main girdle
after completely restoring the car my budget is low for awhile
the stock intake was resused with the stock ihi rebuilt turbo and the oem e6 i even threw the stock exhaust back on for now
my future plans are to build the fuel system install a pimp cage it t56 31 spline upgrade and then it will be ready for a turbo upgrade at that time the exhaust and intercooler will be edited .
im on the fence for turbo ideals i was planning a he351 i have some time to decide on that .
until then it will be on the road