The yoke you link to says it is for 1330 u-joints and the Crown Vic aluminum (not steel) drive shaft is also 1330. So that transmission yoke will not require the "combination' u-joint and will fit since it's listed for the T5 with 27/28 splines.
However, the rear end yoke in the 88 is 1310 so a 1330x1310 combination u-joint will be needed there. The rear u-joint then becomes the weak link in the setup.
If you want 1330x1330 at the rear also, get the rear yoke and companion flange from the Crown Vic at the same time you get the driveshaft. You'll probably have the yoke anyway as it's easiest just to take it with the driveshaft. Removing the companion flange can be difficult depending on how much room you have under the car at the pick 'n pull. You need the Crown Vic flange because the 1330 rear yoke will not bolt up to the 1310 companion flange that's in your TC, the bolt hole centerline is larger on the 1330. You would then need to replace the original companion flange on the rear end and it would also be a good time to replace the pinion shaft seal. Getting the preload torque on the pinion nut right can be touchy though, so you might not want to try replacing the companion flange and seal. Research replacing the pinion shaft seal.
Ideally you would like to the overall length of the drive shaft assembly, rear yoke, drive shaft, and transmission yoke end to end, the same length. The transmission yoke you linked to is shorter than the TC transmission yoke because the counterbalance on the original yoke requires more length. The yoke listed is ~5 29/32. I measured the original TC transmission yoke at ~6 3/8 centerline of the u-joint hole to tip. The listed yoke is ~15/32 (or make it 1/2) shorter than the TC yoke. Have the Crown Vic drive shaft cut 1/2" longer than your TC drive shaft.
I've seen TC drive shaft lengths (centerline to centerline of the u-joint yokes) listed by others as short as 48". I measured mine ('86) as 48 7/16. So you might want to take the TC shaft along to the shop and let them make the measurement.
That yoke has the same measurements of a Spicer yoke I purchased. U-joints for an aluminum drive shaft should have a non-corrosion finish on the bearing caps. I've seen it listed as "alumiguard" or something like that. You probably won't find a combination u-joint with the coating.
Oops, didn't see your other post right away. You've already had the drive shaft shortened. Out of curiosity, what is the length of your new drive shaft?
After installing it and breaking in the u-joints would you run this test. Get on it wide open at highway speeds (55mph up) briefly and then suddenly back off the throttle to closed. I'd like to know if you get any shake or "whip" feeling then.
Great info, thanks a bunch! I havent had the driveshaft shortened yet, Im still searching for one. Id like to get an aluminum one, but still have to find someone around here that will do an aluminum driveshaft. The yoke on the TC driveshaft has alot of play even with the new tailshaft bushing, so thats why Im searching for a new yoke(without that balancer too). Yeah, I dont think I want to mess with the pinion nut or anything. The seal isnt leaking (yet) lol.
Am I putting the cart before the horse here? I guess I need to find a driveshaft first then shop for a new yoke, huh?
You say the "TC driveshaft has a lot of play even with the new tailshaft bushing". What kind of play?
Does the transmission yoke move up/down and side to side? What are the felt effects when driving, vibrations, noise....?
Yeah, the yoke moved side to side and up and down. It still had a bad vibration and even caused the new seal to leak. The rear u-joint was hosed, but the driveshaft is still out of round so thats why Im looking for a replacement. Might as well upgrade while Im at it...
You need to determine, if possible, why the transmission yoke has so much play. With a new bushing the play should be minimal. A new yoke isn't going to necessarily solve that problem. The yoke should be constrained from whipping by the bushing and its fit on the transmission output shaft. The bushing should help stabilize the transmission output shaft.
Is there unusual wear on the shaft of the yoke? Maybe you got the wrong bushing?
There is wear on the yoke that was caused by the old bushing. As a 'test', I slipped the new bushing over the yoke. It was a nice snug fit until it got down to where the yoke rides on the bushing (like the driveshaft were in the car).
Another question, didn't think of it right away. Is the bushing Ford OEM or aftermarket. I've seen aftermarket bushings that were shorter than the OEM unit. Of course, the longer bushing has more bearing surface and should wear better.
Its an aftermarket 'timken' brand from Autozone...and is also a bit longer than the factory bushing. So, the hunt is still on for a new yoke. I'd like to get one the same length as the factory yoke. Another question..what is the OD of the Crown Vic al driveshaft. I ask because I want to make sure it wont hit my mufflers. Thanks for the help Robert!