North American Turbocoupe Organization

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well short verson, ok i installed my new boost gauge (BTW it shows 3psi less then stock gauge)took her for a test run, ran good but only boosting 10 on new gauge, so took her home, next day i turned my gilis up 2 more threds. on test run only boosted 13 psi on new gauge, ran good for 2 miles. went to a stop, got on in from stop shifting at 5000,1st good 2nd good then i missed 3rd, put in back into 3rd flored it then i look behind me and theres a cloud of smoke, not black kinda white but more transparent the anything (i have had a cloud of oil smoke behind this car before, it was all white, this one was different) then i sall smoke inside the car on the passegner side ( smoke outside first then inside) i kinda smelled it, not sweet not like oil. then i let off the gas shifted in to 4th. and the smoke went away. drove it the last 1/2 mile home with no smoke. looked under hood and under the car no more noticable leeks, i just put a new motorcreft PVC vaulve on. i took it for a drive later no more smoke... i even got on it a little. well during this test run i noticed a skweek in front tire, so i took it to my brothers so i could use my jack. took off front tire noticed i didnt have any brack pads (cheap ass autozone pads) so i went to napa got new pads came back went to put them on and noticed that my damn rotor was cracked.... so i figured i will buy the rotors but them on with the new pads, and fix the rack wile im at it. so another question, do i remove the nut on the top of the tirod with the cotterpin in it(right behind the rotor) or do i remove the nut on the allthread looking thing that conects directly to the rack? other then all that the boost gauge looks nice Smile
(and I mean this in the most affectionate terms)

I can now truly finally appreciate Brian L's posts

For clarification

skweek = ?

Are you saying that you didnt have front brake pads present, or were they just really worn out ? Either way, yikes !

and last but not least, if I get the last part, you are removing and replacing the rack. Depending on the mileage (and if you are replacing the rack, my guess is that its high miles) you would be replacing the inner and outer tie rods. This would mean removing the nut/cotter pin and dropping the entire rack & rod assembly. It's much easier to put a assembly together out of the car anyway....

Good Luck
i had pads just no pad left metal to metal. 134000 miles i have had it since 99 and yes i am replacing the rack, anyone have any idea a bout the smoke?
Thats what mine done, told my dad he thought I might gave broke a ring. Same scenario, cept I reved it up to about 5500, dumped the clutch, spun thru first gear at 18psi, hit second and heard a slight bang. then the car filled up with smoke, I was like WTF? SInce then my # 3 Cylinder will only hold 115-125lb of compression when all the others are abot 140. Now the car, when you let off the gas while cruising the car smokes bad. Always when I pull the # 3 plug its gooked with burnt oil. The turbo will only push about 10-12psi WITH NO THREADS showing on gillis. I know in my case its time for a bottom end rebuild. I only have about 1500-2000 ,miles on it since I did the head back in march. Good LUCK!
LOL on Brian's Post!
I use his posts to increase intelligence by ciphering his cryptic typing.
Unless you have an oil leak hitting the exhaust somewhere I'm with Charles.
Look for a leak ( valve cover , rear main seal ) & do compression test.
LOL don't be offended by the Brian comments.

But I wanted to comment that oil smoke is neither white nor sweet smelling as you commented. Oil is Blue-ish and smells (best way I can describe it if you don't know oil smell) like burning rubber.

White is coolant, blue is oil, black is fuel.