Hi everyone, I'm having a little more complications in my car here, in order to brake at a decent distance my car requires engine braking and the pedal to pretty much be pushed to the floor.
My one friend says bleeding the brakes will do the trick, one of my resident mechanics say that I likely need to take it to a speicailty brake shop or ford to get the nitrogen booster fixed.. I'm just wondering what you gusy think the problem is.
Is the pedal real hard with very diminished braking power?. Do you hear the booster pump run if you turn the key to RUN?
I can't really verify on the pumping noise right now because I'm at a friends, but yeah I would say the pedal needs excessive force in order to be pushed to the floor. But when I jiggle the pedal it is actually loose.
Have you cheked fluid level in the resevoir? Are either brake warning lights on while driving?
There is no warning lights on at all on my vehicle, the only one that comes up occasionally is the fuel light of course...
I checked my brake fluid and it seems like i'm doing alright, and i tested my pedal and I would say i could get a workout if i pumped it 30 times.
Pump pedal 5-10 times with key off. Turn key to RUN with your head mear the MC. You should hear the booster pump run for around 30 sec and then shut off. WHile the pump is running, you should see the level in the reservoir drop around 1/4".
The accumulator can not be recharged. If it is bad, it must be replaced.
Warning lights: None work?? After pumping pedal several times, turn key to run. Both the red BRAKE light and yellow ABS light should stay on while the pump charges the accumulator. Lights should go off several seconds before the pump stops running. Even with accumulator fully charged, ABS light will come on for about 5 sec whenever key is turned to RUN as the ABS computer runs its prove out tests.
BTW, to check fluid level in reservoir correctly, it must be checked with the accumulator fully charged (after the pump has stopped running).
AFIK the accumulator won't cause the pedal to go to the floor. Basically it creates a no reserve issue(ign switch off), and causes the ABS and brake lights to come on during moderate braking. At least that's how mine behaved...
I had my friend come with me, we jacked up the car replaced the shattered spring and tried to bleed both rear brakes.
I was in the car pumping the brakes and he said they did'nht work at all or bleed anything, so effecitvely I have no rear brakes.
Another thing thats happening with my car is the LSD isn't engaging at all, but I do have one. Yet another thing is my climate control fans only come on at maximum fanspeed.
Was ignition in run position when bleeding brakes?
If you mean was the engine started, then no... It was one click from turning over.