Well the other day i started my TC up and the check engine light came on. Over the last day or so Iv noticed that once im over 2500-2800 RPMS it will go off and as soon as i drop below that it will come back on again. Last night i was stoped for about 20 minutes talking to a friend out the window and i left my stero and lights on(i have a pretty big stero system that is hard on the battery) when we went to leave my car wouldnt start. It kinda seemed like my battery was dead and it just didnt have enough to turn it over even though the battery gage in my car said it was fine. So i turned my stero and lights off and just for the hell of it tried starting it one more time a few minutes later and it started right up so now i realy don't know if it was the battery and if these two things are connected. Any thoughts? Thanks
Mat
Unless you have an aftermarket voltage gauge, your car doesnt have a "battery gauge" it has an amp gauge which doesnt work on 99.997% of TCs. 20 minutes of a cranked high power stereo will drain down a marginal battery. When the load is removed for a while it may "regenerate" itself enough to start the car.
CEL: 100s of possible causes. We cant help you unless you run the COMPLETE code test (KOEO, CM, KOER), and tell us the code or codes and what part of the test they appeared in.
Thanks. I didnt have my stereo cranked and have had it cranked for longer then 20 minutes befor with no problem i just didnt know why if it was the battery it would have had the power to start suddenly.
As for a my CEL i just tought id see if anyone has had this problem with the light coming on under those specific RPMS and what they found to be the problem.
Thanks for your help Jeff!
Mat
I am going to make a total stab in the dark as to the CEL. I am betting a code test will show a CM 42 = O2 shows rich for 15 or more sec when closed loop fuel control expected. In other words the adaptive long term fuel trim has tried to lean it out in that part of the fuel map to correct for a perceived rich condition, but has railed out, causing the CEL. Common causes of this are a leaking FPR diaphram allowing fuel to be sucked into the intake thru the FPR vac hose, TPS voltage too high (but not high enough to set a code) or a VAF problem, with the VAF reporting more air flow at low folw rates than there really is.
For the intermittant no start, carefully check batt cable terminals at the batt for loose or corrosion, and check batt ground at engine, and batt terminal at the starter solenoid.
Thanks you very much...Today I took it out for a ride after the rain cleared up and the engine light seems to jump around alot now. When i poped my hood the was a strong fuel sent...now im worried what should i check first?
thanks
Mat
Well i figured my problem out today.sad to say but its going away for the winter now. My problem is a hole in my fuel rail. The reason i never noticed it was everytime i looked at the engine the car was off and so today while i was fixing a coolant leak i turned the car on to make sure it was done and sure enough gas was just pouring out. Anyways its just gona have to go away for the winter and ill have to upgrade my fuel system so i can push more boost next summer. Anyways thanks for all the help Jeff
Mat
Fuel rail is easy to replace. An hour job at most working slowly. All you have to remove to get at it is the upper intake, which is a 10 minute job at most. Should be able to get a fuel rail from the JY for cheap. I am 99% sure the rail from any 2.3 from that era will work. You need the quick disconnect tools to remove the many parts stores.
The fuel rail is about a 10min job. Just disconect the fuel lines. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold it to the lower intake. Then gently pull the injectors out of there holes in the intake and then slip it out towards the front of the car. No need to take apart the intake. You will need those disconect tools if you don't have them. Most parts stores have them in more than one form. I like the a/c disconect tools they work awsome. Much better than the cheapy fuel line tools.
I know its not a hard job but i plan to upgrade all that over the winter so there isnt much sense to putting a stock one back in now...i think i even have a stock one laying around that is probly in good condition..but there was also frost the last two nights and being in canada you never know when the snow is coming whcih means the salt comes and i dont want the TC and especially my rims to see salt. Im in the process of looking to rent out a shop again for this winter and then hopfully by next summer i can post some top 1/4 mile times!!
Thanks for the help though guys!
Mat