I put in a brand new clutch about 4 months ago, and welllast ngith it started slippin at 300rpm, it owuld jump straight to 4000rpm, please dpotn tell me they gave me a clutch for a mustnag four cylinder 2.3, and not a thunderbird 2.3l turbo! It had a into clutch in it beofre iand it burned up quick. Anybody else having these short term cluthes? i do feater the clutch out when im racing rto bring the boost rpessure up with out spinning the wheels. but this is outta hand. The clutch has a 12,000 mile warranty and its only been around 6,000. Any pionters on what type or brnad clutch i shoudl buy now?
Brian
1988 TC 5spd (slippin away, lol)
Did you have the fly wheel resurfaced? If not, the clutch is going to slip sooner or later. BTDT I'm assuming you put in a new pressure plate also?
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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
You could also be leaking oil onto the clutch disc, maybe from a rear main seal leak? Oil will do in a clutch in no time. Just a thought
I tried to save a few $$ once years ago and not resurface a flywheel because it looked good to me. A few thousand miles later, clutch was slipping bad, and I ended up replacing it again.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
I resurfaced the flywheel myself, it still had some heat cracks in it but they weren't major. Yeas i did the complete kit, pressure plate and disc. Do they sell just the discs? i do have a major rear seal leak and its actually getting worse. So i should assume when i do the clutch AGIAN!, to replace the rear main seal? But with what? It leaked form the day i put the crank kit in, and well either they grinded the surface if the crank down too much, or i have a serious problem, im running on a tight budget, and this my only ride right now. If im gonna spend some $$$ i should just buy a center force dual friction?
and anybody have luck with them?
In my opinion ford should have made these flywheels and clutches around 10in diameter not the lil size it is. But it isthe fuse link in the drivetrain, I cant blow the tranny by dumping the clutch cuz the clutch gives before anything, and with a 8.8" rear and a small clutch like that i dont have to worry about braking gears, lol. Not like I would be trying.
Brian
1988 TC 5spd, (slippin away ,away ,away)
You can buy buy the clutch plate by itself.
I'm using the Centerforce II and like it, but I have only had it in for a couple thousand miles, went in with the new engine. My crankshaft was not turned and my rear seal is leaking and probably has from the start.
I will just use another rear seal and replace. You might want to consider having the flywheel turned this time.
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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
BJL, I am not sure about this but I believe they sell a repair sleeve that goes around the seal part of the crankshaft end. If this is where the leaking is from. Sometimes a reman. crank gets ground where the rear main seal lip contacts the crankshaft. If your leaking at the rear main you can have the flywheel resurfaced till the cows come home and are still gonna burn up clutches. A few drops of oil on a clutch disc will burn um up in a real short time! Denny
Depending on how much you have removed from the flywheel...there are shims made for our flywheels that bring the surface back out to the same place they were before the resurfacing. I think Goodson makes them.
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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !
ok i gotta get hese two make sense
what do you mean by resurface?
i "cut": the flywheel useing a brake laid at my work when i had the tranny and clutch out
so is this term "resurfaced" the same and my term for "cuting" the flywheel?
Pete, do you just have the disc and a other bradn pressure plate?
becuase im relaly would only liek to buy the disc. Then use my pressure plate that i have alreadyin the car
Money is really getting short, since my brakes in the front are squealling, and now i gonna get my new parking brake cables also,and i gotta get the orfice tube for the a/c system, so right now the clucth is second onlist, but the money is goin fast.
Worst coems ot worst i will just geta new lcutch kit formt he comp[any that sold it to me irts under warranty , but i thinkt he clutch suck anyway, Complete dioffertn form my friends 87 tc with a differnt bradn clutch (dotn now the name off hand)
But i rather get soemthign differnt
thanks Brian
I have a rear main seal leak and it will cause the clutch to slip if the car sits for a couple of days. The test for this is pretty easy. Try burning off any residue (the old fasion way, by dumping it in first).