North American Turbocoupe Organization

Full Version: What's up with my brakes...part 2
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OK, today I tested the relay as outlined in the FAQ page. The pump runs when I jumper the two wires, and then as soon as I turn to the key to the start position it kicks on, but the pedal is still very stiff. So...now what? How can I tell exactly what is wrong?
everything else work in the car? turn signals and the blower motor? my brake pedal got hard as if there was no power assist from a bad ignition switch. but it is hard to understand whats wrong by the way your wrote it. you jumpered the wires and it worked. but they dont work when the relay is put back in that would meen you have a bad relay. you sure you tested the right one right? on has five and one has four wires i want to say it is the one with 5 wires you test.

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1966 mustang
1988 tbird
No what I mean is I plugged the relay back in after jumpering the wires, and when I turn the key to the "on" position I can hear the pump turn on. There was a brown relay and a gray relay. I tested the brown one because I was told it was the one for the brakes, and the other one was for the ABS system.
Red. The brake relay should be the one toward the front of the car
That's the one I tested, then.
Could it be possible that the relay doesn't work some of the time? I drove my car down to wash it today and then drove around for 10-15 minutes and the brakes were fine the whole time. Last night I left work and they worked ok for about 5 minutes and then the pedal was stiff the whole rest of the way home.

Also, do replacement relays have to come from a Ford dealer and how much do they cost?

[This message has been edited by Red_LX (edited 07-15-2005).]
I replaced the relay that you suspect bad and the relay for the autolights. They were like 14 bucks from a parts store.

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Grey 88 5 Spd. 16" Cobra wheels, G3 130 AMP ALT. New Hella Fog lights, Gillis valve @ 15 PSI,6"Front mount K&N, PST front end kit, Performance Plus brakes, Pro 5.0 shifter,Kirban5005,Walboro 255...(gutted upper, ported lower, ported E6,a237,T3/T4oe,all waiting for action)
Intermittant inop relay is a common problem. Spend the $20 and replace it.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 23 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car) // 91 Topaz (daughters first car)
I had the same thing happenning. It would work and then it wouldn't. Went to the Ford dealership and they said that the relay was obsolete. We matched one up and he said that it would cost $175 for that relay. I told him he was nuts and asked him to find a cheaper one. He did, and it was $18 total. The part # is F8PZ-14N135-AA

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87 T/C, 5sp., Hardened Crank, Crower Sportsman Rods, J.E. full floating pistons, .030 over, Total Seal rings, Head and Main studs, Ported/Polished head, 1.89, 1.59 S.S Valves. Motorsport Lifters, A-234 cam, Fidanza Adj. cam sprocket, ported polished lower, gutted upper intake, Rod's S/S headers, 3" DP, T04B 57 Trim, custom Stage III, Gillis BCV, Forge Bypass, K&N Air Filter, Kirban Adj. FPR, Walbro 255 FP., 42# inj., J3 Adaptor. GN intercooler going in soon.
The one on my son's TC was intermittent. New relay fixed it.
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