My front end is very loose, cause every bushing in the front end is dry rotted. So that means its time to replace them. First off, which ones should i do my self, and which ones should i let the front end shop do. Secondly, what brand and type of bushings you recomending for my bird?
When I did mine I just used stock replacement stuff from the local parts store. Harbor Freight has a ball joint C-clamp style press they periodically have on sale for $30. To remove the bushings I used an air chisel to press them out. The main difficulty I have run into (on all 4 I have worked on) is that the front bolt on the drivers side control arm won't come out. The best method I have come up with is to use a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts between the frame rail and the control arm on both ends. Either order a new bolt from the Ford dealer or grab one from one of the other locations at the jy.
While you are working on it I recommend you also replace the tie rod ends, sway bar end links and frame bushings and the upper strut mounts. If the steering rack is showing any problems replace it also while you are under there. It will take a while, but most of the parts are relatively cheap.
When you are done you will need to have the car aligned or do it yourself. At a very minimum you need to get toe in the correct neighborhood before you even drive it to the shop for alignment. Toe is pretty easy to adjust. Find (or mark) a spot on the tires on both sides to measure from. Rotate the tires so you can measure from side to side as high as you can. Now rotate the tires around so you can repeat it in the back. You want the back to be 1/16" to 1/8" more than the front.
steve
[This message has been edited by teal95 (edited 09-18-2005).]
The alternative is to use polyurethane bushings everywhere; however the strut bushings probably aren't available in poly but everything else is. Poly will firm up the ride more than the stock rubber will and will not eventually deteriorate like rubber will.
Oh - as long as you're down there, don't forget about the steering rack bushings.
If you're interested in poly replacements, try a search using keywords "poly" ,"polyurethane", and "bushings". There's a plethora of info in the archives here.
HTH.
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Joe F.
JR's Aerie - Our 3 TC's
im going to get a full set of poly bushings from PST. So the hardest part will be the lower ball joint and geting that bolt loose :-)
Quote:Originally posted by svo_thunderchicken:
... and geting that bolt loose :-)
I used a big breaker bar and my leg muscles - arms weren't strong enough.
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Joe F.
JR's Aerie - Our 3 TC's
Quote:Originally posted by JoeCool:
I used a big breaker bar and my leg muscles - arms weren't strong enough.
Pansy
[Image: biggrin.gif]
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Ryan Harris
88 TC, 5 spd, B&M Ripper Shifter, Walbro 190 LPH, Kirban, K&N, 3.73 rear, KS disconnected, BCS bypassed, 89K miles.
SPEC Stg. III, Perfection flywheel & rebuilt IHI going in!
Good thing you were smiling, partner ....
[Image: biggrin.gif]
Seriously, I'm NOT a small guy - even a good torque wrench wouldn't break it free, pushing on the dang thing with my foot was a last resort; I got lucky and it worked!
Edit: That's an air impact wrench. Old fartness strikes again.
[Image: eek.gif]
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Joe F.
JR's Aerie - Our 3 TC's
[This message has been edited by JoeCool (edited 09-19-2005).]
That reminds me of the time my friend couldn't get his crank pulley off of his 240SX. So we get his Bronco out and tie a rope to the breaker bar and tug it with the Bronco.
... it worked, with only minor body damage!
[Image: biggrin.gif]
You all think that part house stuff will work fine, or will i fill taht big of a difference if i go with poly?
If you are going to keep the car for a while, I would highly recommend going polyurethane throughout.
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88 Silver T/C, original owner, 264,500 miles.
Loaded with everything except leather & auto trans.
K&N, Gillis(18 psi), SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust.
Short block & turbo original/untouched.
Spec-II/III combo clutch assembly.
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16's.